TBDonnelly
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.....and if Rob is the Owner/Operator/Crew Chief, Loretta is a shoe-in to be the Driver!
Don
Engine Overhaul Kama 554
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.....and if Rob is the Owner/Operator/Crew Chief, Loretta is a shoe-in to be the Driver!
Don
OP
3RRL
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Got a little more done today.
Loretta and I were able to split the tractor. It was easier than the first time since we weren't as scared and new what to expect. Went through the same thing as last time...
Got two floor jacks and wood blocks ready, blocked up the front axle so the engine wouldn't tip over, then rolled the rear away from the front.
Loretta and I were able to split the tractor. It was easier than the first time since we weren't as scared and new what to expect. Went through the same thing as last time...
Got two floor jacks and wood blocks ready, blocked up the front axle so the engine wouldn't tip over, then rolled the rear away from the front.
OP
3RRL
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I had a chance to check out the sliding sleeve which holds the throw out bearing.
If you remember, I made a modification to where I could lubricate the sliding sleeve with some of the grease migrating to the throw out bearing. It all looked like it was working nicely. The clutch was in good shape too, and the fingers were not worn down at all. After checking things out, I started to remove the flywheel housing and get the engine ready to put on the engine stand.
I will show photos of that tomorrow.
Only because I had Loretta get the wrong bolts.
I picked out 4 bolt holes I thought I could use, but no matter what I tried, I couldn't get those I chose to bolt to the stand without interfering. So I had to use other bolt holes which, of course, were 12mm instead of the 14mm ones she bought.
I also got the new crankshaft and bearings from Chip.
Unfortunately, the head gasket got ruined during shipping, so he is sending another one. Right now I have the new crankshaft in the lathe to check it's concentricity. I still have to mic all the journals, so I will show some of that tomorrow as well. The digital gram scale has not arrived yet.
On the bright side, my chickens and my dog were keeping me company.
If you remember, I made a modification to where I could lubricate the sliding sleeve with some of the grease migrating to the throw out bearing. It all looked like it was working nicely. The clutch was in good shape too, and the fingers were not worn down at all. After checking things out, I started to remove the flywheel housing and get the engine ready to put on the engine stand.
I will show photos of that tomorrow.
Only because I had Loretta get the wrong bolts.
I picked out 4 bolt holes I thought I could use, but no matter what I tried, I couldn't get those I chose to bolt to the stand without interfering. So I had to use other bolt holes which, of course, were 12mm instead of the 14mm ones she bought.
I also got the new crankshaft and bearings from Chip.
Unfortunately, the head gasket got ruined during shipping, so he is sending another one. Right now I have the new crankshaft in the lathe to check it's concentricity. I still have to mic all the journals, so I will show some of that tomorrow as well. The digital gram scale has not arrived yet.
On the bright side, my chickens and my dog were keeping me company.
OP
3RRL
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I do have a question for you guys...
Is there any reason I couldn't take out the pistons from the bottom of the engine after removing the crankshaft? That way, I won't have to remove the head or any of the fuel injectors, rocker arm assembly etc. If I can line up the connecting rods to their respective journals, I should be able to place the crankshaft in position and get to all the rod bearing caps to tighten everything back up form the bottom.
Am I missing something?
Is there any reason I couldn't take out the pistons from the bottom of the engine after removing the crankshaft? That way, I won't have to remove the head or any of the fuel injectors, rocker arm assembly etc. If I can line up the connecting rods to their respective journals, I should be able to place the crankshaft in position and get to all the rod bearing caps to tighten everything back up form the bottom.
Am I missing something?
ToadHill
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It is a difficult job to put the pistons back in from the bottom without breaking any rings.
MtnViewRanch
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Pull the head, it will be a lot faster and easier. Good luck with this endeavor.
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
The only engines where the pistons come out the bottom, to my knowledge, are the Cooper-Bessemer (General Electric) but those cylinders and heads are one piece. Usually the cylinder and journal webs are offset just enough to prohibit this but not sure about these engines.
OP
3RRL
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I didn't think about the journal webs being in the way.
If that's the case, then I couldn't even pull them out from the bottom, right? While surfing the web about crank installation, I saw a video of pistons being inserted from the bottom.
That's why I asked.
Makes sense (to me) that IF I can get the pistons out from the bottom, I should be able to get them back in that way too. Those sleeve liners are brand new. You guys say I should put them in from the top to reduce the possibility of ring damage too.
I'll have to see if I can get the ring insertion tool down there or not.
It's tempting because I wouldn't need to strip down the top end at all.
No removing valve cover (and new gasket), fuel lines and injectors, intake and exhaust manifolds (and new gaskets), rocker arm assembly or valve lash adjustment, head bolts (and new gasket). So there is a lot of work I could pass over if I could get them out and back in from the bottom.
I'm not so sure pulling the pistons out from the top is a lot "faster and easier"(just to do that).
Once I have the crank removed (which I have to do anyway), and if the journal webs allow it (or if it possible at all), how much faster and easier could it be? Think about it ... Taking them out from the top requires me to push them up from/using the connecting rod side, then pull them out from the top. But it requires all that head removal work first (and re-assembly). Taking them out from the bottom requires pulling on the connecting rods and re-insertion (if possible). I understand if it's not possible because something physically prevents me from doing so, or if re-assembly becomes impossible, then yeah, I would do it from the top, of course.
But you can bet that I'm sure gonna check it out, whether or not it can be done without damage to the rings or anything else. Considering all the other work involved with removing the head, cost of new gaskets etc., that's a lot more work IMHO. Head gasket alone is $39 bucks. I'll have to check it out today. Most of all, I don't want to screw up now that I'm this far along. And as always, I value all your input and opinions. So if there are any other reasons not to do it from the bottom, I'd like to hear about them. Something serious that would prevent me from doing it from the bottom regardless if it is possible or not.
Thanks,
Rob-
If that's the case, then I couldn't even pull them out from the bottom, right? While surfing the web about crank installation, I saw a video of pistons being inserted from the bottom.
That's why I asked.
Makes sense (to me) that IF I can get the pistons out from the bottom, I should be able to get them back in that way too. Those sleeve liners are brand new. You guys say I should put them in from the top to reduce the possibility of ring damage too.
I'll have to see if I can get the ring insertion tool down there or not.
It's tempting because I wouldn't need to strip down the top end at all.
No removing valve cover (and new gasket), fuel lines and injectors, intake and exhaust manifolds (and new gaskets), rocker arm assembly or valve lash adjustment, head bolts (and new gasket). So there is a lot of work I could pass over if I could get them out and back in from the bottom.
I'm not so sure pulling the pistons out from the top is a lot "faster and easier"(just to do that).
Once I have the crank removed (which I have to do anyway), and if the journal webs allow it (or if it possible at all), how much faster and easier could it be?
Think about it ... Taking them out from the top requires me to push them up from/using the connecting rod side, then pull them out from the top. But it requires all that head removal work first (and re-assembly). Taking them out from the bottom requires pulling on the connecting rods and re-insertion (if possible). I understand if it's not possible because something physically prevents me from doing so, or if re-assembly becomes impossible, then yeah, I would do it from the top, of course.But you can bet that I'm sure gonna check it out, whether or not it can be done without damage to the rings or anything else. Considering all the other work involved with removing the head, cost of new gaskets etc., that's a lot more work IMHO. Head gasket alone is $39 bucks. I'll have to check it out today. Most of all, I don't want to screw up now that I'm this far along. And as always, I value all your input and opinions. So if there are any other reasons not to do it from the bottom, I'd like to hear about them. Something serious that would prevent me from doing it from the bottom regardless if it is possible or not.
Thanks,
Rob-
dcyrilc
Elite Member
I didn't think about the journal webs being in the way.
If that's the case, then I couldn't even pull them out from the bottom, right? While surfing the web about crank installation, I saw a video of pistons being inserted from the bottom.
That's why I asked.
Makes sense (to me) that IF I can get the pistons out from the bottom, I should be able to get them back in that way too. Those sleeve liners are brand new. You guys say I should put them in from the top to reduce the possibility of ring damage too.
I'll have to see if I can get the ring insertion tool down there or not.
It's tempting because I wouldn't need to strip down the top end at all.
No removing valve cover (and new gasket), fuel lines and injectors, intake and exhaust manifolds (and new gaskets), rocker arm assembly or valve lash adjustment, head bolts (and new gasket). So there is a lot of work I could pass over if I could get them out and back in from the bottom.
I'm not so sure pulling the pistons out from the top is a lot "faster and easier"(just to do that).
Once I have the crank removed (which I have to do anyway), and if the journal webs allow it (or if it possible at all), how much faster and easier could it be?
But you can bet that I'm sure gonna check it out, whether or not it can be done without damage to the rings or anything else. Considering all the other work involved with removing the head, cost of new gaskets etc., that's a lot more work IMHO. Head gasket alone is $39 bucks. I'll have to check it out today. Most of all, I don't want to screw up now that I'm this far along. And as always, I value all your input and opinions. So if there are any other reasons not to do it from the bottom, I'd like to hear about them. Something serious that would prevent me from doing it from the bottom regardless if it is possible or not.
Thanks,
Rob-
Granted it's be close to 25yrs since I've torn an engine apart, but if I remember right, the botom wasn't flat like the top was, so you couldnt seal the ring compressor tight all the way around like the top did. But then, those were gas engines and weren't sleaved like the diesels either and that might make a difference.
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
Before attempting to pull the pistons from below, check the measurement between the bottom of the liner and the journal web to see if there is enough room for the piston to pass, otherwise you could get in a bind and not even be able to get the piston back in without breaking some rings.