Buying Advice Evaluating options for a compact

[WVH1977]

I am going to go along with Luke's Screen Name and suggest at least a 40 to 60 hp tractor like his MX. The MX series can be had new in the low 30k range. A box blade and grapple would go nicely to start out. You can always build up implements as you go along. There are also a lot of 40 hp+ tractors that are from the mid 2000's that can be had in the lower and mid 20k that are in good shape.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the smaller tractors that you are looking at and you will be happy with just having a tractor to help you out on the property. They will also do a lot of work for you. However, once you start using the tractor on your property it will get really small really quickly. I have stated this before, when I bought my tractor I thought it was huge and almost bought a smaller one. Now, looking back I would have bought even bigger than what I have now. You will not regret a bigger tractor.

 

[NYCheese]

I am going to go along with Luke's Screen Name and suggest at least a 40 to 60 hp tractor like his MX. The MX series can be had new in the low 30k range. A box blade and grapple would go nicely to start out. You can always build up implements as you go along. There are also a lot of 40 hp+ tractors that are from the mid 2000's that can be had in the lower and mid 20k that are in good shape.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the smaller tractors that you are looking at and you will be happy with just having a tractor to help you out on the property. They will also do a lot of work for you. However, once you start using the tractor on your property it will get really small really quickly. I have stated this before, when I bought my tractor I thought it was huge and almost bought a smaller one. Now, looking back I would have bought even bigger than what I have now. You will not regret a bigger tractor.

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna get something bigger than the 25hp I started with. I don't want to be starved for power when it's got a FEL and BH on it, going up a hill, or hauling loads of firewood. The little wagon I have was a manure spreader 50 something years ago. Most of the machinery was removed long ago, so it's not that heavy, but full of firewood it is. My concern with going too big, is I don't want to lose maneuverability in the forest. There used to be a couple trails through there, but they're long since overgrown, but even when I get them cleared, I don't want to be confined to the trails. It's a fairly dense forest, and I don't want something that's too big to weave between trees. Plus, the space I have to park it inside is limited to approx. 12' x 16', with implements likely being stored under a lean-to roof for the time being. Cost isn't really a driving factor per se. I started out wanting to be under 30k with everything, but if I use the Mahindra from today as an example, it'd probably be more like 35k for everything. I'm perfectly fine with that, but at some point I'm gonna have to put a limit on it.

I definitely don't want to get something too small, and regret it later, but the firewood is going to be one of my main tasks in the long term (after getting trails cut, and fixing drainage issues), and something too big to get around would also be a regret. I'm trying to find the sweet spot.

 

[jeff9366]

NYCheese

I'm gonna get something bigger than the 25hp I started with. I don't want to be starved for power when it's got a FEL and BH on it, going up a hill, or hauling loads of firewood.

Safe hillside operation demands more tractor weight than level land operation. Tractors optimized for hill work have liquid installed in the rear tires, rather than air. Loaded tires are filled to 75% capacity with liquid, which increases tractor weight low down ~~600 pounds to 800 pounds~~ for two loaded rear tires. Loaded rear tires lower the tractor's center-of-gravity, making the tractor more stable.


My concern with going too big, is I don't want to lose maneuverability in the forest.

Tractors turn much more sharply than road vehicles. Front wheels are unrestricted by bodywork. Tractor front wheels are smaller than rear wheels. Small front wheels can turn tighter to tractor frame.

The tractors you are considering can turn with the steering wheel in NINE feet. Locking one of the two rear wheel brakes, tractors can turn in their own length. Three Point Hitch mounted implements increase tractor/implement combination length, but implements raise hydraulically. Lay newbie maneuverability concern to rest, at least on level ground.

MORE: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/379042-why-left-right-brakes.html


I don't want to be confined to the trails.
You need 4-WD for hills.

Safe hillside operation requires four wheel drive (4-WD). Tractors have brakes only on the rear wheels. When descending, tractor weight distribution shifts forward, decreasing rear tire grip. With 4-WD engaged tractor feigns four wheel braking. Without 4-WD engaged, on a steep slope, an uncontrolled descent may occur. Uncontrolled descents have been T-B-N thread subjects.


It's fairly dense forest. I don't want something too wide to pass between trees.

Tractor specs show tractor width with R1/agricultural tires, which you may choose for hillside use. When you have choices narrowed to two or three models, buy a ten foot length of 1-1/2" diameter PVC pipe. Cut it to width of widest wheel spread under consideration. Mark two narrower increments. Check pipe against tree widths, gates, bridge widths, door widths, etc.

I did this pipe test before buying my third tractor. I determined 62" tire spread was going to be much more convenient than 72" tire spread in my woodland.

In terms of indoor storage, tractor height, even with ROPS folded, is invariably the restrictive dimension, not width.


I don't want to get something too small, and regret it later. I'm trying to find the sweet spot.
Buy enough tractor.

 

[jeff9366]

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna get something bigger than the 25hp I started with. I don't want to be starved for power when it's got a FEL and BH on it, going up a hill, or hauling loads of firewood. The little wagon I have was a manure spreader 50 something years ago. Most of the machinery was removed long ago, so it's not that heavy, but full of firewood it is. My concern with going too big, is I don't want to lose maneuverability in the forest. There used to be a couple trails through there, but they're long since overgrown, but even when I get them cleared, I don't want to be confined to the trails. It's a fairly dense forest, and I don't want something that's too big to weave between trees. Plus, the space I have to park it inside is limited to approx. 12' x 16', with implements likely being stored under a lean-to roof for the time being. Cost isn't really a driving factor per se. I started out wanting to be under 30k with everything, but if I use the Mahindra from today as an example, it'd probably be more like 35k for everything. I'm perfectly fine with that, but at some point I'm gonna have to put a limit on it.

paragraph
noun
1.
a distinct section of a piece of writing, usually dealing with a single theme and indicated by a new line, indentation, or numbering.
synonyms: section, subdivision, part, subsection, division, portion, segment, passage

verb: paragraph;
1.
arrange (a piece of writing) in paragraphs.

 

[TomIre]

I went down the same path with most of the same requirements as you. And looked at some of the same machines. I ended up with a sub 30k 37 HP, 4 cylinder, 4wd, backhoe, FEL, ag tires, widened rear wheel spacing, brake on opposite side from two hst pedals (not a treadle setup), most comfortable seat i sat on, 4000 lb base weight, 6 year powertrain, 2 year bumper to bumper, etc My choice was a Branson 3725. Have you thought about looking at a Branson? I found it best Mahindra in every category that was important to me.

 

[NYCheese]

I went down the same path with most of the same requirements as you. And looked at some of the same machines. I ended up with a sub 30k 37 HP, 4 cylinder, 4wd, backhoe, FEL, ag tires, widened rear wheel spacing, brake on opposite side from two hst pedals (not a treadle setup), most comfortable seat i sat on, 4000 lb base weight, 6 year powertrain, 2 year bumper to bumper, etc My choice was a Branson 3725. Have you thought about looking at a Branson? I found it best Mahindra in every category that was important to me.

Unfortunately, there's no Branson dealers anywhere even remotely close. I've read good things about their tractors, but I've also read that service and parts can be severely lacking. That combined with the distance to any dealer, would make me very hesitant.

 

[NYCheese]

NYCheese

Safe hillside operation demands more tractor weight than level land operation. Tractors optimized for hill work have liquid installed in the rear tires, rather than air. Loaded tires are filled to 75% capacity with liquid, which increases tractor weight low down ~~600 pounds to 800 pounds~~ for two loaded rear tires. Loaded rear tires lower the tractor's center-of-gravity, making the tractor more stable.

I absolutely plan on having the tires loaded with beet juice. I asked at kubota and mahindra about wheel spacers also, but they both said they might not be compatible with a backhoe.

Tractors turn much more sharply than road vehicles. Front wheels are unrestricted by bodywork. Tractor front wheels are smaller than rear wheels. Small front wheels can turn tighter to tractor frame.

The tractors you are considering can turn with the steering wheel in NINE feet. Locking one of the two rear wheel brakes, tractors can turn in their own length. Three Point Hitch mounted implements increase tractor/implement combination length, but implements raise hydraulically. Lay newbie maneuverability concern to rest, at least on level ground.

MORE: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/379042-why-left-right-brakes.html

That's good news. Like I said, one of my concerns with giong too big was getting around between trees. I imagine there's still a point where "too big" would be a factor, but sounds like a much lesser concern than I thought. I really like your idea about using a piece of pipe to visually gauge the width while walking through the trees, I plan on doing that.

You need 4-WD for hills.

Safe hillside operation requires four wheel drive (4-WD). Tractors have brakes only on the rear wheels. When descending, tractor weight distribution shifts forward, decreasing rear tire grip. With 4-WD engaged tractor feigns four wheel braking. Without 4-WD engaged, on a steep slope, an uncontrolled descent may occur. Uncontrolled descents have been T-B-N thread subjects.

4wd is a must. I plan on using this for snow removal also.


Buy enough tractor.

Yeah, I've already eliminated what I originally had in mind. I really did like that B2650, but after reading the posts here, and even talking to the Mahindra dealer yesterday, I think I'd regret buying that machine later on. I'm thinking more in the 35-40hp range now. And making a list of models that are in the 3000lb bare tractor ballpark, which would be over 4000lb with loaded tires and any implements attached.

 

[coobie]

paragraph
noun
1.
a distinct section of a piece of writing, usually dealing with a single theme and indicated by a new line, indentation, or numbering.
synonyms: section, subdivision, part, subsection, division, portion, segment, passage

verb: paragraph;
1.
arrange (a piece of writing) in paragraphs.

To funny on a tractor forum..

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna get something bigger than the 25hp I started with. I don't want to be starved for power when it's got a FEL and BH on it, going up a hill, or hauling loads of firewood. The little wagon I have was a manure spreader 50 something years ago. Most of the machinery was removed long ago, so it's not that heavy, but full of firewood it is. My concern with going too big, is I don't want to lose maneuverability in the forest. There used to be a couple trails through there, but they're long since overgrown, but even when I get them cleared, I don't want to be confined to the trails. It's a fairly dense forest, and I don't want something that's too big to weave between trees. Plus, the space I have to park it inside is limited to approx. 12' x 16', with implements likely being stored under a lean-to roof for the time being. Cost isn't really a driving factor per se. I started out wanting to be under 30k with everything, but if I use the Mahindra from today as an example, it'd probably be more like 35k for everything. I'm perfectly fine with that, but at some point I'm gonna have to put a limit on it.

I definitely don't want to get something too small, and regret it later, but the firewood is going to be one of my main tasks in the long term (after getting trails cut, and fixing drainage issues), and something too big to get around would also be a regret. I'm trying to find the sweet spot.

Hey NYCheese. I'm in the same place as you are, getting ready to pull the trigger. Also perhaps similar land; pretty steep, often rough, and mostly woods. All of those conditions dictate a larger tractor, but like you, access is tight and often tricky. I've found two good reasons for not just knocking down trees willy nilly (like just to make a wider trail for my tractor): 1. Really want to preserve valuable trees and bushes and habitats, and 2. It's easy to take a tree down, but it's a big job what you do with it afterwards, and the tractor isn't much help with that aside from transport. Not to mention the stumps.

I'm also looking at Mahindra, either the 26XL or the 1526, probably the 15 series. The Mahindras you looked at might have been 2017's. It pays to ask. They made just a few small improvements in 2018 but they might be important. It is hard to nail down this info (I think they don't want to hinder dealers being able to get rid of last year's model) but I believe the 2018 1526 has the improved seat (with red inserts), armrests, and better pedal/control layout. Note the 26XL is the smallest tractor that has the SSQA. (Funny, for some reason the new 20 HP 2018 model, they put the better seat and the SSQA on it! But too small for us.)

Big difference between the 26XL and the 1526 for us hill-folk I think. This pic below shows them side by side (these are 2017 models but it clearly shows the size and more importantly the width difference):


My local dealer has a yard full of slightly faded 2017 shuttles in all sizes. He's bringing in a dozen brand-spanking new 2018's for us to look at. All HST's. Guess the shuttles didn't sell too well around here. Drove a 2018 2538 HST today, with the good seat, armrests, perfect pedal/control layout, and loved it. Just too big for our woods.

Good luck!

 

[rScotty]

..... SNIP.....

My local dealer has a yard full of slightly faded 2017 shuttles in all sizes. He's bringing in a dozen brand-spanking new 2018's for us to look at. All HST's. Guess the shuttles didn't sell too well around here. Drove a 2018 2538 HST today, with the good seat, armrests, perfect pedal/control layout, and loved it. Just too big for our woods.

Good luck!

I can answer that one. I've had both types of transmission - in fact I have both types now (again).

HST is much nicer than a shuttle for hilly country, icy slopes, as well as much better for using the loader. That's because with the HST, when you take your foot off the treadle all tractor driving force stops. Any momentum that the tractor has simply disappears.So reducing the treadle acts like it puts on the brakes as you reduce the drive. Completely off and no drive at all, and it doesn't even want to roll. My Kubota HST also automatically adjusts the throttle to compensate for any motion of the treadle. The throttle can be adjusted separately, but you don't have to.

With a shuttle-shift, the throttle is separate. But more importantly, with a shuttle you are always in gear unless you deliberately shift into neutral. So as you slow down it doesn't want to stop. You are still in gear even if you reduce the throttle. So to come to a complete stop or just inch forward with a shuttle you need to either shift into neutral, tap or stand on the brakes, or shuttle into reverse and go backwards.

Now for use on long straight sections like a huge lawn or a farm field the shuttle is nicer because you can just set the throttle, select a gear, relax, and just continue on without any foot or hand control needed.
rScotty