Ever feel like your tossing money down the drain?

[schmism]

how expensive it is to replace it.
David from jax

didnt used to be! (oil price today +$126/bb)

 

[SPYDERLK]

I changed my hydraulic oil last weekend on my MX5000. It has the mechanical shuttle tranny. The dealer said wait until 100 hours but I couldn't stand it when I hit 65 hours I had to change it. When I drained all 46.5 quarts from the 5 different drains it looked like it was new. $189.00 for oil and filter.

Not so expensive if you filter it and add it 10% to your diesel fuel. I would be pleased to take it if we were closer.
larry

 

[ScottAR]

The 580 holds 15 gallon in the tank and 2-3ish gallon per large cylinder plus a little roaming around in the hoses. If you spring a leak, it's a mess.

 

[john_bud]

Not so expensive if you filter it and add it 10% to your diesel fuel. I would be pleased to take it if we were closer.
larry

Larry, you beat me to it! I was going to tell him to add 1 gal in each 5 gal can of diesel.

jb

 

[Soundguy]

Waste oil in my expensive injection pump? no thanks.. if I want to destroy the pump.. I can just pour sand in it and make it fail immediatly, and not wait for it to fail slowly later on...

soundguy

 

[SPYDERLK]

Waste oil in my expensive injection pump? no thanks.. if I want to destroy the pump.. I can just pour sand in it and make it fail immediatly, and not wait for it to fail slowly later on...

soundguy

Pour sand in it if you want, but you can get a lot more out of it without that additive as it fails slowly over the course of 20 or 30 yrs normal life.
larry

 

[Soundguy]

Pour sand in it if you want, but you can get a lot more out of it without that additive as it fails slowly over the course of 20 or 30 yrs normal life.
larry

If your injection pumps are only lasting 20-30 ys.. and you consider that normal life.. then I'd quit using the waste oil in them.

I mostly dink with antiques... I see plenty of diesels with non rebuilt pumps.. the pump on my 5000 is over 30ys old... looks to be doing fine too.. no over fueling.. starts easy.. cutoff works good.. etc. Probably because i don't contaminate it with heavy metals and soots.. you know.. things the injectors weren't made to handle... vs clean fuel... the stuff they were made to handle.

soundguy

 

[SPYDERLK]

If your injection pumps are only lasting 20-30 ys.. and you consider that normal life.. then I'd quit using the waste oil in them.

I mostly dink with antiques... I see plenty of diesels with non rebuilt pumps.. the pump on my 5000 is over 30ys old... looks to be doing fine too.. no over fueling.. starts easy.. cutoff works good.. etc. Probably because i don't contaminate it with heavy metals and soots.. you know.. things the injectors weren't made to handle... vs clean fuel... the stuff they were made to handle.

soundguy

Actually, probably not. Probably because you dont put on a lot of hours. Not sure where youre sourcing the soot, and heavy metal of any appreciable size has already been filtered out or has settled in stagnant areas. We are talking low contaminant content and not of an abrasive nature.
larry

 

[Soundguy]

Soot is abrasive. Heavy metals are present from engine component wear.. this can all be found in waste oil. just look at a used oil report.

While I may not personally put loads of hours on my antiques.. they sure have had loads of hours put on them by the previous owners. Hours of use is hours of use, age is age.

I don't see any new vehicles or machines that instruct you to use your waste crankcase oil by adding it to your engine. ( And I'm not talking large marine vessle's either... )

soundguy

soundguy

 

[Bob_Young]

I'm with Chris on this. I won't be adding it to the fuel. But, as much as I use a chainsaw, it will see the chain oiler. I've put a couple of gallons of "barely used" hydraulic oil through the saws in the past 18 months and it works fine. The saws stay a lot cleaner than when I use regular bar oil and the chains seem to hold their tension longer.

I'm a little leery of using the used crankcase oil in the good saws, but it's good enough for the clunkers and the Craftsman. They usually die of something else before the cc oil wrecks the chain oiler. In fact, I can't remember a saw that was used regularly ever losing a chain oiler even with a steady cc oil diet. Sitting unused for a year or two is what wrecks them.
Bob

 

[SPYDERLK]

Soot is abrasive. Heavy metals are present from engine component wear.. this can all be found in waste oil. just look at a used oil report.

I don't see any new vehicles or machines that instruct you to use your waste [crankcase oil] by adding it to your engine. ( And I'm not talking large marine vessle's either... )

soundguy
soundguy

It sure is odd that some people will notice when you change the subject, isnt it? I think Lincoln addressed that with a quote passed down thru the years.
larry

 

[Builder]

I changed my hydraulic oil last weekend on my MX5000. It has the mechanical shuttle tranny. The dealer said wait until 100 hours but I couldn't stand it when I hit 65 hours I had to change it. When I drained all 46.5 quarts from the 5 different drains it looked like it was new. $189.00 for oil and filter.

That's nothing. The typical 1000 hr service (change all fluids) on a backhoe like mine is $1,200!

Wanna see a massive amount of hydraulic fluid? Open up a backhoe!

 

[Soundguy]

It sure is odd that some people will notice when you change the subject, isnt it? I think Lincoln addressed that with a quote passed down thru the years.
larry

That was actually an honest mistake on my part. i'm participating in a thread on a near identical topic in another forum, re: recycling used oils into the diesel tank. As you can see I got confused about this one being only about hyd oil.. re: my comments on soot.. (crankcase) etc.

Still.. the hyd oil will contain metalic contaminates, grit and possibly acids and moisture.. all depends on the oil and the add package. None of that is meant to go thru the injection system.. diesel however is.

soundguy

 

[daTeacha]

Motor oil in place of chain oil will leave you with a cleaner looking bar and chain because it isn't designed to cling to the metal as much as the chain oil is. The bits of tree aren't doing any harm, just indicating that your chain and bar are coated with oil as intended. Using motor oil is better than nothing, but chain oil is better for the purpose as long as you cut only wood. If you occasionally saw dirt by mistake, or cut logs that have been dragged and have a lot of dirt in the bark and such, the motor oil might be better than the bar and chain.

How well does Mr. Funnel work at filtering out the dirt from lube or hydraulic oil? Has anyone tried it? I just took my old oils to be recycled at Advanced Auto Parts. They accepted it, but they don't give you anything for it.

My manual calls for either 15W - 40 or 10W - 30 in the crankcase. The stores around here don't seem to have 10W - 30 diesel grade oil. The manual doesn't specify heavy duty or diesel grade, just 10W - 30 and 15W - 40. Do you guys all use heavy duty diesel grade motor oil?

 

[Soundguy]

Diesel oil is marked with a 'C' rating.. gasoline only oil will have an 'S' rating. Not uncommon to see oil with both an 'S' and a 'C' rating.

Lots people running oils with 'C' ratings in some gas engines.. especially hi-performance ones.. or flat tappet engines.. especially if they like zinc..

soundguy

 

[Egon]

I changed my hydraulic oil last weekend on my MX5000. It has the mechanical shuttle tranny. The dealer said wait until 100 hours but I couldn't stand it when I hit 65 hours I had to change it. When I drained all 46.5 quarts from the 5 different drains it looked like it was new. $189.00 for oil and filter.

Industrial equipment surely does not use this type of time frame for changing fluids.

 

[Rara Avis]

Get the hydraulic information you need!

 

[daTeacha]

HOLY COW! That site has about 3 years worth of reading on it. It looks very good. I'll have to look at it at home.