James is correct. The 160 is 240 V only. There are adapters that you can buy ready made to convert a 14-50 receptacle into a welder plug. But with these as they are, without a plug if you only (and I mean only) have a 14 50 or some other type plug, you can make one up to match from HD, or Lowe's, and drop the neutral, just use the green for the ground. White and black should go to the hot. Don't confuse a welder white wire with the dryer's white wire as that is the neutral. The white should go to the red terminal, and the black to the black. I don't typically give out wiring information publicly like this because it is confusing and so many people can misread it and there are those that have "exceptions". But, I want to give the best info I have.
I probably should mention something here, as it has been an issue in the past and people claim we have falsely advertised the older 160, 200 and 300 units as being scratch start TIG capable. First, these units, as have been shown , are TIG capable, but don't expect these units to go down to 5 amps or something. They aren't for low end TIG welding. We've had customers buy them and then say we didn't tell them it wouldn't do low amp TIG welding, which apparently is what they bought them for. If you need to weld 30 amps or less with TIG, move on. Second, these units have built in arc force control which does boost the amps off the base amperage while welding so the amps will vary some what according to the arc length. And third, no these will not weld aluminum, IF you are buying it to weld aluminum. These are DC. Yes, technically you can weld aluminum with DC, but if you are buying it to weld aluminum in DC and have no experience with TIG, don't buy it. But as you can see from various members posts, they can and will TIG weld in DC and do a passable job. If you need super controlled TIG parameters you might want to pass on these units. We do have TIG specific welders that can do that, though.