Factory Tips From Power Trac

[Beechwood]

But then you can't see what the Stump Grinder blade is cutting!!

Reverse the blade to throw the chips forward, and you can see what you are doing, and the chips won't hit you or the hoses!!

Hey welcome back Fourteen! It's been a long time since your last post or thread. Where have you been? I reversed my stump grinder and it does work a lot better for flying chips. I also mounted a steel trailer fender on the grinder top and that helps a lot as well.

 

[FOURTEEN]

""Where have you been?""

I've had some problems that have demanded most of my attention. Hope I can catch up!



""I also mounted a steel trailer fender on the grinder top and that helps a lot as well.""

I was considering that for mine, but used the flexible tire tread instead. Glad the fender works for you. Anything you can do to control the flying dirt and chips is a huge improvement!

 

[marrt]

Glad you're back. Without someone willing to voice some "strong opinions" from time to time, this forum was getting a little boring. Now, about this idea of reversing the wheels....

 

[FOURTEEN]

Now, about this idea of reversing the wheels....

The saga begins at #71 on http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/power-trac/34740-pt-425-pros-cons-8.html?highlight=PROS+cons !!

For more, Search: "reversed wheels". There have been numerous Posts concerning my sanity, or insanity, for having the audacity to do what the factory didn't!!

 

[BobRip]

I was told during the class at Power Trac to tighten the big nut between the front and back halves of the PT every eight hours of use. It takes a 1 13/16 inch wrench. These are available at Northern Tools for about $20.

 

[BobRip]

Add two extra bolts to the rough cut mower disc in the empty holes to keep the blades from getting hung up on the center hub. Mine did not already have these. I think the new ones do.

 

[FOURTEEN]

Add two extra bolts to the rough cut mower disc in the empty holes to keep the blades from getting hung up on the center hub.

Problem: The bolts will be too short! The blade will hit the bolt head, damage the bolt head, then ride up on top of it, and jam!

Solution: Screw a hex nut onto the bolt tightly against the bottom of the bolt head. Install the bolts. Now the blade will strike the side of the nut, and freely swing back into position!

 

[MossRoad]

Problem: The bolts will be too short! The blade will hit the bolt head, damage the bolt head, then ride up on top of it, and jam!

Solution: Screw a hex nut onto the bolt tightly against the bottom of the bolt head. Install the bolts. Now the blade will strike the side of the nut, and freely swing back into position!

I tried that and I sheard them off, too. But it was a longer period of time between having the blades go over each other VS just having the bolt head there. I have learned to take a sledge hammer with me every time I brush hog. I use it to knock the blade off of the other blade when they get stuck together.

 

[BobRip]

I have added 4 or 5 washers under the bolt. This helps, but is not perfect. Perhaps we should (or PT) weld an extension to the center hub. Does anyone have a better suggestion to improve this. I think we need something that has shock absorbing featers. How about welding a spring to the bolt head? It would give without breaking. Any thoughts on this.

 

[MossRoad]

Each time my bolt breaks and the blade goes flying off into the sun-set, I think that confirms that not much will stand up to that mass of swinging metal. I just shrug it off, locate the blade, get out the impact hammer and extract the bolt from the backside of the hub. I have not mastered the EASY-OUT method and would like to do so.