Farmall 200 distributor question

[8ntractorjdx]

I am struggling with the tractor some. I bought it a week ago.The tractor lacks power hesitates and almost dies under load and there is a hesitation when in gear and quiet pop-pop at idle. I suspect the distributor bushing is worn out. the grease fitting caps for the distributor had not been taken off in a long long time. and there is quiet a bit of side to side play in the shaft that holds the rotor. it obviously moves at least .010". Is buying a distributor bushing kit a good place to start? How hard is it rebuild the distributor? What can I screw up? or is a used distributor a better way to go?

thanks

 

[DJ54]

Case/IH shows no bushing to replace. Here is the exploded view of the distributor, via Case/IH online parts store. Official Case IH Online Parts Store and Case IH Catalog for Best Parts Search and Best Parts Look Up. Case IH Parts for Case IH Tractors, Case IH Combines, Case IH Tractors, Case IH Manuals, Case IH Parts

Here is the superseded part number for the distributor, 107304C91.

You can copy and paste the part number to Google, and do some online shopping. Or, here is one on ebay, complete with points, condenser & cap for $150.00. IH Farmall Distributor A AV B BN C Cub H M SM 100 200 300 350 400 450 353890R91 | eBay

 

[8ntractorjdx]

Case/IH shows no bushing to replace. Here is the exploded view of the distributor, via Case/IH online parts store. Official Case IH Online Parts Store and Case IH Catalog for Best Parts Search and Best Parts Look Up. Case IH Parts for Case IH Tractors, Case IH Combines, Case IH Tractors, Case IH Manuals, Case IH Parts

Here is the superseded part number for the distributor, 107304C91.

You can copy and paste the part number to Google, and do some online shopping. Or, here is one on ebay, complete with points, condenser & cap for $150.00. IH Farmall Distributor A AV B BN C Cub H M SM 100 200 300 350 400 450 353890R91 | eBay

Thank you for all of the information DJ54

I assume that after reading a few posts that the side to side play on the distributor shaft is bad is this correct? I actually have never seen it before but have never really looked for it either. the play is bad enough that pushing on the shaft with my finger I can visably open the points. that is bad right? I read the super c thread you helped out on I am a little confused so maybe the play is normal or a broken part in the distributor.
Once I know it is bad I will start looking for a dist. thanks again DJ54

 

[DJ54]

Most definitely bad..!! I'd say the shaft and housing are worn, and doubt either are worn even. So no matter what lobe on the dist cam you use set the points, that doesn't mean the other 3 positions will have the same point setting.

Not sure what a used one would cost, but for the money, that one for $150.00 would be my choice.

 

[DJ54]

Most definitely bad..!! I'd say the shaft and housing are worn, and doubt either are worn even. So no matter what lobe on the dist cam you use set the points, that doesn't mean the other 3 positions will have the same point setting.

Not sure what a used one would cost, but for the money, that one for $150.00 would be my choice.

 

[8ntractorjdx]

thank you now I know where to start the one for 150 looks like a good deal. It will be 250 by the time I get it up here but still maybe worth it. I have 2 guys checking on parts tractors locally but I think a new one is probably the way to go. with the cap rotor and points already in the 150 seems more than fair. thank you again for your help this is my first farmall tractor. I had an 8n with a front distributor you just pulled out and took in the house to tune up. Ran flawless for 5 years after that. this tractor needs so much work but eventually it will get there. I think the distributor is the first piece of the puzzle. thanks again

 

[DJ54]

You're surely welcome. Those are handy sized tractors, easy on gas, and easy to work on. The two Super C's I have, are my little work horses for the lighter duties around here. Maybe not quite as handy as the Ford with 3 pt., but if it has the Fast Hitch system on it, and you have the FH attachments designed to work on it, they are a pleasure to use.

 

[8ntractorjdx]

thank you again

The ford was a good tractor but only had a scoop backblade and 2 bottom plow. this one has a loader and a homemade 3pt hitch for the fast hitch. the loader trumps all other attachments for our current living situation. small garden no plowing. I am sure the farmall will be every bit as good eventually. It will not have to work hard plow snow mostly and landscape a small acreage.

Is it safe to use this way until I get a distributor or am I going to do other damage. I know the last guy used it but I do not want to burn the valves or break pushrods.

thank you again

 

[DJ54]

I'd say it won't do it any good using it like that. Myself, I wouldn't, it could cause other problems, and expense to repair, but use your own judgement.

 

[8ntractorjdx]

Thank you

I got in a hurrey and I think I made a stupid rookie mistake late last night. I havent had a distributor out in many years. marked the number 1 wire on the body of the distributor. moved the rotor to the number 1 position. marked the position on the body of the govenoer. marked the pointer on the pulley. and pulled the distributor. Waking up in the middle of the night I started to remember having to move the number 1 cly to tdc. I did not do this. am I doomed to wrecking the engine? Help

 

[DJ54]

Nah... Remove #1 cyl plug, and rotate engine until you feel compression. Then watch for the timing mark for TDC. Then install the distributor, as close as you think it may be in the right spot, but don't completely tighten it. You want to be able to turn it, to dial it in. Install the plug wires. With the #1 plug still out, lay it where it will ground out. Check to make sure you're at TDC. Then turn the ignition switch on, and move the distributor back and forth slowly, until you get a spark. At the point where you get spark, turn the ignition switch off, so as not to burn the points and tighten the distributor down. If it doesn't move, you should be dead nut TDC. You can always put a timing light on it, after it starts, and check to make sure.

You can also install the plug, but then leave the #1 plug wire just out of the cap far enough to make spark jump, and listen for it. Seems every time I tried that, half the Air Force would fly over, or every dog for miles would start barking, LOL... So I use the visual thing anymore...

I don't have tune up specs for the 200, but am assuming it is the same as the Super C's, C-123 engine specs, which fires at TDC.

 

[8ntractorjdx]

thank you neat trick but somehow i managed to screw it up - I moved the number one cyl to tdc on the compression stroke. There is no mark near the pointer. so I used a drinking straw until I got top dead center ( with a work light I can see in the cylinder.) I did the neat trick with the distributor- checked compression since I had the plugs out and installed new plugs. Started the engine and it was not running right. nice and quiet but not right. seemed like The exhaust was coming out of the oil fill tube? My 84 year old neighbor came over and told me the engine was running backwards then but he knows I am part polish so I am pretty used to him pulling my leg. what did I do wrong? more importantly what should I do next? (beside sell the tractor for parts and find a simpler hobby maybe watching paint dry or something. thank you again for your help

 

[8ntractorjdx]

here is a pic of the pointer are the small slots in the pulley the timing marks if so which is which

thank you

 

[8ntractorjdx]

I think I am closer I pulled the cap with the pointer on a mark and the rotor was 180 degrees off. I put 1 at tdc and the marker lined up with the last mark. when thru the spark for postion trick and it runs. heavy smoke but it is coming from the exhaust pipe. need to find a timing light thanks again for all of your help.

 

[8ntractorjdx]

you know your getting old when you cant tell the difference between a compression and an intake stroke.

 

[DJ54]

I dug out a manual for the newer C-123's, and it fires at 22º BTDC. Is the mark the pointer is at, what you found to be TDC..?? According to the manual, that is 30º before TDC, the next one is 22º BTDC, and the next one down below is TDC. If in fact where you found TDC matched up with the lowest notch, I got you timing it way retarded.

Get it coming up on compression again, then stop it at the second notch, and dial in the distributor, and see what you get.

What kind of reading did you get on compression..?? Top notch is 160 psi.

Was it acting like the exhaust was puffing out the filler tube before..??

 

[8ntractorjdx]

first I want to thank you again for all of your help.

I will do the same on the second notch probably will be tomorrow though. the compression readings were 120 80 102 118. I did get some exhaust out of the fill tube when I was using the loader, when that happened I looked it up on the various forms and found that it was at least not uncommon. I have only had the tractor a week and a couple of days It has been running poorly and did not have any brakes so I have not used much. I ordered brake parts and managed to use the good components from both brakes to get a little braking on one side. I know it is probably a lapse in judgement to buy this tractor and i would be embarrassed to say what I paid for it. But I like the old tractors and it will have a fairly easy semi retirement. plowing snow and small amounts of loader work.

 

[8ntractorjdx]

the mark the pointer is at is the first of 3 the bottom mark is tdc and where the tractor is set at know

 

[8ntractorjdx]

the compression test was cold the tractor had not been run in a couple of days. not sure if that makes a difference.

 

[DJ54]

Well, looks like I got you 22º out of time, and I apologize for that.

Those are sweet little tractors when they are up to snuff.

That low reading, I'm assuming on #2 could be a couple of things. Could be worn, or partially stuck rings, and getting some blow by, or a burned valve. If the valve guides are worn enough,and the exhaust valve is burnt some, it could huff compression up past the valve, around through the guide up into the valve cover, and out the filler. And it could be that the exhaust valve is set too tight, not letting it completely close too, or has caused it to burn. Doesn't take that long to pull the valve cover, and check the valve clearance. Both should be .014 warm.

You can always put a quart of Marvel Mystery oil in the engine, and see if that makes a difference after a couple of oil changes.