Farmall 200 distributor question

   / Farmall 200 distributor question #11  
Nah... Remove #1 cyl plug, and rotate engine until you feel compression. Then watch for the timing mark for TDC. Then install the distributor, as close as you think it may be in the right spot, but don't completely tighten it. You want to be able to turn it, to dial it in. Install the plug wires. With the #1 plug still out, lay it where it will ground out. Check to make sure you're at TDC. Then turn the ignition switch on, and move the distributor back and forth slowly, until you get a spark. At the point where you get spark, turn the ignition switch off, so as not to burn the points and tighten the distributor down. If it doesn't move, you should be dead nut TDC. You can always put a timing light on it, after it starts, and check to make sure.

You can also install the plug, but then leave the #1 plug wire just out of the cap far enough to make spark jump, and listen for it. Seems every time I tried that, half the Air Force would fly over, or every dog for miles would start barking, LOL... So I use the visual thing anymore...

I don't have tune up specs for the 200, but am assuming it is the same as the Super C's, C-123 engine specs, which fires at TDC.
 
   / Farmall 200 distributor question
  • Thread Starter
#12  
thank you neat trick but somehow i managed to screw it up - I moved the number one cyl to tdc on the compression stroke. There is no mark near the pointer. so I used a drinking straw until I got top dead center ( with a work light I can see in the cylinder.) I did the neat trick with the distributor- checked compression since I had the plugs out and installed new plugs. Started the engine and it was not running right. nice and quiet but not right. seemed like The exhaust was coming out of the oil fill tube? My 84 year old neighbor came over and told me the engine was running backwards then but he knows I am part polish so I am pretty used to him pulling my leg. what did I do wrong? more importantly what should I do next? (beside sell the tractor for parts and find a simpler hobby maybe watching paint dry or something. thank you again for your help
 
   / Farmall 200 distributor question
  • Thread Starter
#13  
here is a pic of the pointer are the small slots in the pulley the timing marks if so which is which tractor disributor 002.JPGtractor disributor 003.JPG

thank you
 
   / Farmall 200 distributor question
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I think I am closer I pulled the cap with the pointer on a mark and the rotor was 180 degrees off. I put 1 at tdc and the marker lined up with the last mark. when thru the spark for postion trick and it runs. heavy smoke but it is coming from the exhaust pipe. need to find a timing light thanks again for all of your help.
 
   / Farmall 200 distributor question
  • Thread Starter
#15  
you know your getting old when you cant tell the difference between a compression and an intake stroke.
 
   / Farmall 200 distributor question #16  
I dug out a manual for the newer C-123's, and it fires at 22º BTDC. Is the mark the pointer is at, what you found to be TDC..?? According to the manual, that is 30º before TDC, the next one is 22º BTDC, and the next one down below is TDC. If in fact where you found TDC matched up with the lowest notch, I got you timing it way retarded.

Get it coming up on compression again, then stop it at the second notch, and dial in the distributor, and see what you get.

What kind of reading did you get on compression..?? Top notch is 160 psi.

Was it acting like the exhaust was puffing out the filler tube before..??
 
   / Farmall 200 distributor question
  • Thread Starter
#17  
first I want to thank you again for all of your help.

I will do the same on the second notch probably will be tomorrow though. the compression readings were 120 80 102 118. I did get some exhaust out of the fill tube when I was using the loader, when that happened I looked it up on the various forms and found that it was at least not uncommon. I have only had the tractor a week and a couple of days It has been running poorly and did not have any brakes so I have not used much. I ordered brake parts and managed to use the good components from both brakes to get a little braking on one side. I know it is probably a lapse in judgement to buy this tractor and i would be embarrassed to say what I paid for it. But I like the old tractors and it will have a fairly easy semi retirement. plowing snow and small amounts of loader work.
 
   / Farmall 200 distributor question
  • Thread Starter
#18  
the mark the pointer is at is the first of 3 the bottom mark is tdc and where the tractor is set at know
 
   / Farmall 200 distributor question
  • Thread Starter
#19  
the compression test was cold the tractor had not been run in a couple of days. not sure if that makes a difference.
 
   / Farmall 200 distributor question #20  
Well, looks like I got you 22º out of time, and I apologize for that.

Those are sweet little tractors when they are up to snuff.

That low reading, I'm assuming on #2 could be a couple of things. Could be worn, or partially stuck rings, and getting some blow by, or a burned valve. If the valve guides are worn enough,and the exhaust valve is burnt some, it could huff compression up past the valve, around through the guide up into the valve cover, and out the filler. And it could be that the exhaust valve is set too tight, not letting it completely close too, or has caused it to burn. Doesn't take that long to pull the valve cover, and check the valve clearance. Both should be .014 warm.

You can always put a quart of Marvel Mystery oil in the engine, and see if that makes a difference after a couple of oil changes.
 

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