Farmall 200 distributor question

DJ54 · Jun 20, 2015

Being the distributor turns clockwise, and your turning it clockwise, you're retarding it, so it shouldn't hurt anything. What the hey, turn it to where it sounds good, and see what happens.

The manuals I have skip the 200 - 230 series. I have one for the Super C, then skips to the C-123's for the 140, 240, etc. So not real sure when they changed the timing. If it runs well at TDC, go for it. If it's too far advanced, it will be firing, nearly before the intake valve closes. Could be why you're getting a little poof, when it runs.

I keep forgetting that it has been converted to 12V. Does it have a ballast resistor on it..?? It should look similar to the one in the photo I attached. It should be, depending on how they set it up, ahead of the original 6V coil, or in between a new 12V coil, and the distributor. Most newer 12V system gas tractors started on giving 12V to the points on startup bypassing the OEM ballast resistor, to give it a good hot spark to start. Then once the key, or starter button was released, current went through the ballast resistor, reducing voltage to 6V, to make the points last longer. If you can't find one on there, it'd be an idea to get one. They are about $10.00. If not, your new points will look like the one's you replaced in short time.

There shouldn't be much rotation in the rotor. Could be the pin through the drive gear is getting loose. Guess that could be determined if you have it out again, grabbing the drive gear in one hand, and the rotor button in the other, and turning one end, and see where the slop is.

I feel bad, because I may have you more confused than ever...

8ntractorjdx · Jun 20, 2015

Certainly do not feel bad I am very grateful for your help and the tractor is getting better. I bought a service manual on line download today. It is a BEST series. They say for the 200 to set the number one plug like you told me at tdc then turn the distributor the same direction as the cam(i assume the counter clockwise same as the pulley) 30 degrees then use a timing light to the 30 degree Btdc line on the pulley at fast idle (what ever that means) It sounds like the same thing you told me to do just starting at the 30 degree btdc line. The tractor does have a Ballast resistor. It looks like it is broken in several places. I did move the distributor clockwise and it made a big difference it is a long way from running well but it will at least keep running. The distrbutor was very rusted inside it is missing the cover between the points and the rotor. there is a roll pin in the gear. I did use a considerable amount of deep creep and wd40 on the advance but it seemed to loosen up and the springs were not broken. i could pull it and check again the rotor has at least 1/8 turn of rotation. thank you again for your help. Not really sure what the next move should be.

DJ54 · Jun 20, 2015

At this point, me neither. At least you have a manual to go by now. Wow, and 1/8 of as turn is a lot.

If you do come up with a timing light, and once you get it set, you can rev the engine up, and see if the advance works. IF you have a long enough arm to hold the timing light, and reach the throttle too.

You'll get it, hang in there. Keep us posted..!!

8ntractorjdx · Jun 20, 2015

I will thank you again. The hydraulic fluid is red. do you know of a red hydraulic fluid or do you think the last owner used transmission fluid. if it is atf is that ok?

DJ54 · Jun 20, 2015

The old original Hy-Tran was red, back in the 60's. Not sure about the ATF in the hydraulics. ATF is pretty high detergent, and not sure what it would do to the pump. But apparently it has been in there for a while. I'd say use your own judgement. Personally, I'd probably switch it out if it is in fact ATF, but that's me.

If you do, save the ATF. Mix it 50/50 with Acetone, and you'll have some great penetrating oil. The mixture needs to be kept in something air tight, so the Acetone won't evaporate. I use a dish detergent bottle to mix mine up in. Beats PB Blaster & Kroil, hands down.

8ntractorjdx · Jun 21, 2015

thank you again for all of your help I will post again when I get a timing light and the other repairs are made. thank you

8ntractorjdx · Jun 22, 2015

Just an update -- Set the timing to TDC and moved the dist until the motor just sounded better. Still not great but a long way from where we started. thanks again DJ54

DJ54 · Jun 22, 2015

Sounded like it throttled up nice. Yeah, there is still something there I can quite put my finger on. Could be exhaust valves, or rings on the one cylinder that had low compression.

Not sure what grades of gasoline you have there, or if they add ethanol there too. I use mid grade, 89 octane in mine. Had a fuel dealer tell a buddy of mine, that they add more ethanol in the low grade, 87 octane here. It will show too, if not working it too hard, the plugs will carbon up. And my 656 will foul plugs
on the 87.

Run it, and see what happens. Maybe it just need a good workout..!!

8ntractorjdx · Jun 23, 2015

Hello DJ56

Yes I am running lowest grade for the lawn mower. I actually ran out of fuel when I first got it. there is no sediment bulb only a filter. the air cleaner has no oil bath on it. I will pick up some more gas. I worked it this morning it is considerably better but still not right. at full throttle it can spin the tires without dying on wet grass. which is a big improvement. When I adjusted the valves I noticed some of the rockers are badly worn not sure if the valves should be set to the high spot or the low spot. the high spot seems to be missing the lifter.If it moves enough to hit the high spot i think it will break a pushrod. I am waiting for brake parts and an air filter oil cup and the alternator is at the shop. the next time I run out of gas I will try to clean the tank a little and change the gas filter add the air filter and change the oil back to dino oil from the synthetic oil he has in there. I think the tractor will work ok I would like to get it running as well as possible without putting a ton of money in it. I just will not use it enough to warrant spending a bunch on it and I have a lot of other work to do. thanks again for your help

DJ54 · Jun 23, 2015

I'll assume you're using a flat blade feeler gauge to set the valves. It will be bridging across the high parts of the worn rocker, so the valve will actually be a little looser than the .014". Better a little loose, than tight.

Somewhere around here, I've got an old wire, or pin type feeler gauge, made specifically for what you are dealing with. I got it in a bunch of tune up tools years ago at an auction. Pretty handy for adjusting the worn rockers. I tried to find a new one online, but seems the smallest gauge anymore is .020.

If it's been ran without the oil cup on the breather for a while, it may be an idea to remove the canister, and dip in in some sort of cleaning solution. It's bound to be packed with dust & dirt. Some sort of water based degreaser/detergent in a 5 gallon bucket, and let it soak for a bit, then wash/rinse out, and let it dry.

There will be a fill line on the cup for the oil level. And I just put in the cup, whatever I use in the engine.