favourite stick rod

[monckywrench]

Whatever you use, get lots of time under your hood.

The most important component to a good weld is the "nut holding the stinger".

Industrial equipment is nice to have (and used gear easy to accumulate inexpensively) but for many jobs it isn't critical.

I still keep my AC-225/DC-125 for convenience, but prefer my 250 Migmaster, 450i cvcc ESAB, and Miller 340 AB/P. (The Miller was the cheapest at 250 bucks!)

While Shield Arc might not like being stuck (in some hypothetical situation) with an AC Hobart Stickmate and a box of chain store 6011, I expect he could produce sound welds with zero problem although with zero pleasure compared to using an SA-200.

Old pre-ITW industrial Hobart gear often goes CHEAP, by the way, and it's frequently quite stout. Check the MODEL of anything you run into on various welding forums to find out what's good and what ain't.

Old AC industrial machines (any major US brand) often have higher OCV (open circuit voltage) than entry-level gear, and plenty of serious work was done with them. They didn't come in 500 and larger amp sizes for no reason. If one fell into my hands for under scrap price I'd at least give it a shot for the educational value. My Miller 340 will run nicely off a 50A breaker though not maxed out. Any of the examples below should also do fine off a (better choice) 100A breaker which I'll add for my setup.

Some little single-phase AC buzz boxes:
The Miller manual was last updated in 1985 and the Lincoln in 1996 so they aren't ancient:

 

[Shield Arc]

This same discussion came up on another site a year or so ago. Up until then I couldn't honestly say I ever ran SMAW on AC, so I gave it a try. Little open root vertical up with 1/8 inch 6011.

 

[jake98]

ShieldArc, are you cutting those bevels with your plasma to make those coupons?

 

[Shield Arc]

No! That's too much work:laughing:, I use the Ellis bandsaw.

 

[jake98]

Well, I guess that should do it..

 

[Shield Arc]

Yeah shes a pretty cool saw, cuts angles really accurate, 50-degrees either way.

 

[Verticaltrx]

On the whole AC vs DC thing, yes DC is nice, but a necessity hardly. I have a nice 500 amp Diesel engine driven welder sitting in my shop, it welds very smooth and is a joy to use. However, around the shop for 95% of the stick welding I do I use my old Lincoln 225-AC. It's easier than pulling the engine drive welder out, starting it up, having to listen to it run etc. And with years of practice IMO the difference in weld quality between the two is minimal.


To the OP, as I mentioned before, I use Lincoln 7018AC rods (for both of the aforementioned machines) and they work great. As with any 7018's they take a lot of amps to run compared to other rods. Don't hesitate to try them and with enough practice they'll probably become one of your favorite rods for an AC machine. Just make sure they are good and dry, even a tiny bit of dampness makes 7018's all but worthless.

IMO these welds don't look too bad for an AC machine (1/8" 7018AC, 135amps):

 

[Mike_VT]

6011 for farm equipment and 7018 for new stuff.

 

[Haywire]

even a tiny bit of dampness makes 7018's all but worthless.

What qualities do they lose with the dampness? I bought a 1lb box of 7018 to try and they weren't even in plastic. Just a pound of rod in an unsealed cardboard box.

Ian

 

[Gizmo2]

No matter what, I always stick the 7018 for a few seconds to warm it /dry it and have never had an issue with dampness. I do store my rods in an aluminum ice chest cooler that has a 40 watt bulb in it and the bulb is on all the time.