Fence post driver HELP please

   / Fence post driver HELP please #21  
Get a one inch wood auger drill bit and a cordless drill. Use the drill to drill into the ground as far down as you want the T post. Then you can pound in the T post with almost no effort.

Yes, you will dull and make the drill bit unusable for drilling wood. Who cares, it's for removing just enough dirt to make putting the T post in easy.
 
   / Fence post driver HELP please #22  
Buy or build your own. No post driving needed.

Flexible A Frame for all Types Banner | Banner Frame BannerBuzz

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   / Fence post driver HELP please
  • Thread Starter
#23  
EddieWalker.... that is a great idea with the drill to make it easier..
BuckeyeFarmer... most of our sponsors use the push in signs at the teeing area, but a lot want a bigger banner for a larger donation...

Right now am leaning to trying to locate a used Rohrer unit (have almost a whole year to find one hopefully) and if cannot find one will try drilling a 1" hole before hitting with the manual driver so it is easier & quicker...

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions...
 
   / Fence post driver HELP please #24  
   / Fence post driver HELP please #25  
"An airless air compressor

Pretty impressive video but I wonder if it could work so easily in the clay and shale we have here. "

Good catch SH - I stand by my comment tho, it really IS "airless" til ya plug it in :D

Soil - as I mentioned, I bought their bigger driver 'cause we have fairly heavy clay soil here too - you can buy a T post adapter for the bigger ones, as I did - then it isn't too hard to make your own OTHER sized/shaped adapters depending on your tools/abilities. One of the links I posted is the model I bought

http://www.rohrermfg.com/post-drivers/99e-m-post-driver/

which will drive square posts barely over 2" square (2.0329", actually :rolleyes:) - I then built an "adapter" from 2" square tube, capped one end, added an 8" piece of (capped) 4" square tube so I could theoretically drive 4x4's....

I cut one end of the 4x4's to a 10" long symmetrical point, soaked in preservative for a day or so, and drove 'em in -

If you have similar soil, you know there's about a 20 minute "window" when it's right to till - that's when I did this. SOME of the posts went in so quick I almost "over-drove" 'em, others I was REALLY glad all I had to do was hold the driver and wait (maybe 3-4 minutes)

And yeah, NOTHING is perfect - but even the larger one I have is about $1500 "MORE perfecter" (less expensive, that is) than some of the OTHER options :thumbsup:

Downside - there is ONE irritating "feature" I haven't figured out how to get around - these work by using the OUTER shell (and steel slug) as the hammer, so you hold the handle that's part of the INNER sleeve, then trip the "start" lever and let the long OUTER handle slide up and down thru your other hand - when it first starts, the first DOWN stroke causes the inner sleeve (and the post) to jump UP - this can make the post MOVE from where you started.

If you catch it on the first or second stroke you can move it back and start over; you can usually AVOID the "hop" by holding down HARD on the "inner" handle at the start (hence the "NOTHING is perfect" comment above...)

I just used mine yesterday, we're doing a new "permanent" garden down below my shop - 8' tall "deer" fence. Both sides have 6' wide gates, T posts with 1" conduit "extensions", diagonal conduit braces, 48" chicken wire x 2 - the 2 "ends" will be just 3 sticks of conduit with wire that can easily swing out of the way, letting me do a "drive-thru" with the 6' tiller (and later, flail mower) - I drove 6 T posts and 2 2" round gate posts in about 10 minutes TOTAL, and I'm 72 (and maybe starting to slow down a bit from when I was HALF that age :laughing: )

Sooo, there's yer "real world review" - can't tell you what the smaller "T post only" driver will do, I DO know mine will punch a T post THROUGH chunks of shale over an inch thick, just takes a few more whacks - but that's part of why I went with the bigger unit... Steve

Oh, and if my description of the "4x4 adapter" wasn't clear enough, let me know and I can grab a pic of it...
 
   / Fence post driver HELP please #26  
That is great to hear. I already sent the link to my brother and he is thinking of getting one.

Too bad it does not work off of tractor hydraulics. I have a heavy duty post pounder that will do up to I believe 8 x 8 but I have never modified it so that it would work on my tractor. And definitely not portable like the unit you have.

I really appreciate your bringing it to everyone's attention. I had seen these when searching the web a while ago but I did not have a need for it and had forgotten all about them.

Ken
 
   / Fence post driver HELP please #27  
Get some 5/8" or maybe 3/4" rebar. Cut it to desired length and sharpen the ends with a grinder. Maybe weld some large washers or chain links on them to attach the banners to. Get a good cordless drill with a masonry bit. Drill pilot holes in the ground and pound the rebar in.

We have to drive around 300 3/8" stainless steel stakes about 8" in the ground a day for geophysical surveys. We use a cordless hammer drill with a masonry bit when the ground is really hard. It works great. Have done it thousands of times.
 
   / Fence post driver HELP please #28  
I just use the hammer drill directly to pound grounding rods into our clay and shale - works real well, no need to drill a hole first.

Ken
 
   / Fence post driver HELP please #29  
I just use the hammer drill directly to pound grounding rods into our clay and shale - works real well, no need to drill a hole first.

Ken

I am sure it does. The problem is I doubt a 1/2" rod will be be stout enough for his application and most likely a cordless hammer drill will not accept anything larger. This is why I think he will need to drill pilot holes. It won't cost much to test it out. Go spend $20 on some rebar and bits and do a test in your yard and see how it works and how big of a rod you need to support the banners.
 
   / Fence post driver HELP please #30  
I use a deep impact socket and adapter. Now that I have a cordless impact wrench, it works even better.

Ken
 

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