Fence post peeler/debarker
- Thread starter CDN Farm Boy
- Start date
- Views: 25085
OP
CDN Farm Boy
Veteran Member
Some neat ideas brought forward, and sounds like the chains on a rim idea would work. At this point, my contraption is on hold and I've got my posts peeled.
I'd walked by the pile with a shovel on my hand and gave one of the posts a poke and a chunk of bark came right off. Poked away at it for another few seconds and more came off easily. Went to the shop, grabbed a spare shovel handle and a chunk of scrap steel and built a spud and started peeling. I was peeling strips several inches wide by half or 3/4 of the post on one shot.
It was working well but seemed almost easier to just pull by hand. Back to the shop, 2 saw horses and a 3/4" chisel (no idea where my draw knives are) and I was back in business. With the exception of 4 that the bark was too dry, I was comfortably peeling 10 an hr. By that math, I couldn't build what I had in mind in that time.
I'd walked by the pile with a shovel on my hand and gave one of the posts a poke and a chunk of bark came right off. Poked away at it for another few seconds and more came off easily. Went to the shop, grabbed a spare shovel handle and a chunk of scrap steel and built a spud and started peeling. I was peeling strips several inches wide by half or 3/4 of the post on one shot.
It was working well but seemed almost easier to just pull by hand. Back to the shop, 2 saw horses and a 3/4" chisel (no idea where my draw knives are) and I was back in business. With the exception of 4 that the bark was too dry, I was comfortably peeling 10 an hr. By that math, I couldn't build what I had in mind in that time.
OP
CDN Farm Boy
Veteran Member
On a similar note, I spent some time building fence the last 2 weekends. I don't have an auger and didn't want to rent for only 20 or so posts so I started digging with the backhoe. With my soil type - soft and wet with no stones at all, I found I could drive them with my post maul faster and better than I could dig them with the backhoe. A lot more work physically but worth it for the better fit.
roadhunter
Elite Member
Impressive piece of equipment. If you don't mind me asking what kind of price ranges is a machine like that in?
Renze
Elite Member
I have no clue. Havent asked my neighbour. But if you search youtube there are other manufacturers that also are represented in North America. Perhaps you better ask them instead of the Austrians.
Brad_Blazer
Veteran Member
In the realm of implements that might cost more than the tractor that's pretty cool Renze. For some reason I kept hoping a Vampire would show up in the video.
Tor, nice video of the same implement with a little age on it.
Tor, nice video of the same implement with a little age on it.
oosik
Epic Contributor
Steve_Miller,
I see your pics of the fence posts. Why go to all the extra work of peeling them? Does it have something to do with longevity? I use 100% T-posts because Ponderosa pine just doesn't last long at all. And about 35% to 40% of all my T-posts are in holes bored in solid bedrock.
I see your pics of the fence posts. Why go to all the extra work of peeling them? Does it have something to do with longevity? I use 100% T-posts because Ponderosa pine just doesn't last long at all. And about 35% to 40% of all my T-posts are in holes bored in solid bedrock.
OP
CDN Farm Boy
Veteran Member
Yes, longevity is a part of it, the other is aesthetic.
The bark traps moisture around the post helping it rot faster, particularly at ground level which is already the worst spot for a post rotting.
If you don't peel them, the bark will fall off on it's own anyway in a year or two. By the time the fence is built, there will be sections of bark held on by either staples and wire or rails and the post start looking shagy and unkempt.
A good cedar post will last 20 years or so around here. T posts mixed with wood posts are used sometimes by the roads crews but in most soil types around here you need the wood post to give enough strength to keep the fence from falling over when the ground is soft
The bark traps moisture around the post helping it rot faster, particularly at ground level which is already the worst spot for a post rotting.
If you don't peel them, the bark will fall off on it's own anyway in a year or two. By the time the fence is built, there will be sections of bark held on by either staples and wire or rails and the post start looking shagy and unkempt.
A good cedar post will last 20 years or so around here. T posts mixed with wood posts are used sometimes by the roads crews but in most soil types around here you need the wood post to give enough strength to keep the fence from falling over when the ground is soft
oosik
Epic Contributor
Hmmm - - thanks CDN Farm Boy. Wooden posts are almost always only used around here for aesthetics. This means they are usually seen only around a yard or close to a house. I have 80 acres fenced which means around 535 or so T-posts. Some were installed in the 1880's and are still in good order. I have a damp/moat area, between two of my lakes, where T-posts will last 5-6 years if I'm lucky. I've tried #1 railroad ties and they last 12-15 years - not worth the effort or cost.
