Fence Questions

   / Fence Questions
  • Thread Starter
#31  
Also, in the field fence installation video on the Red Brand website, they are using a tool to terminate the fabric that I have never seen before. They use it to twist the ends of the wire around, not sure what it is or where to find it. Any ideas?
 
   / Fence Questions #32  
Also, in the field fence installation video on the Red Brand website, they are using a tool to terminate the fabric that I have never seen before. They use it to twist the ends of the wire around, not sure what it is or where to find it. Any ideas?

I checked the site and couldn't find it either, I used a pair of fencing pliers and regular pliers to twist the ends, the main goal is a tight wrap. Here is a link to the main company. If all else fails you could call them and see where they got the tool.
Keystone Steel & Wire Co.
 
   / Fence Questions #33  
Saw a quick, easy and inexpensive way to cap a pipe post. You stuff newspaper into the top 4 or 5 inches then put mortar mix on top of that and form a nice round top to allow water to run off. Messy but cheap.
 
   / Fence Questions #34  
Also, in the field fence installation video on the Red Brand website, they are using a tool to terminate the fabric that I have never seen before. They use it to twist the ends of the wire around, not sure what it is or where to find it. Any ideas?

We used a similar tool to splice barbed wire together. We split the 2-3 strands of barbed wire and used the tool to wrap the strands around each other. I think our local Farmer's Coop sells a tool similar to that.

It wasn't exactly like that tool but similar. Tractor Supply may carry something like that also.
 
   / Fence Questions #35  
Brian, we have 2 "deadmen" around here. Say you had a narrow ditch running under your fence, but its fairly deep 3' or so. You can tie a tee post to it after the fence has been pulled tight. Then drive a short tee post at an angle in the the ditch then pull the fence tee post down and tie it off the the tee post drove in the ground.
The second one would be in a catch pin or very short run of fence maybe 100'. Maybe if you where runnng by a short drive way or round or some obstruction. It is a corner post built out of a power pole or railroad tie. Something fairly large. You put it 5' or so in the ground. At its base right below the surface of the ground you bury a 4' post running horizontal on the pulled side. The post laying in the ground is the "deadman". This can also be used for posts which headgates are bolted too. They dont seem to be to effective on long runs where the weight of the wire is great. The work real good to use a single post to change direction.
I have'nt found anything stronger than the old relible H brace. I would'nt think about using anything else.
For your question on how much to pay a welder to do your work. I guess you pay him/her what they ask for. You have to decide what you can pay. If I was taking this approach I would just go to a couble welding/fab shops and get some prices on me dropping off the materials and drawings and be did with it. Unless you have that welds that you trust. Do all the fabbing your self have it ready for him and let him weld. Although I would suggest suppling the beer after the work is threw.
 
   / Fence Questions #36  
I had a friend over today to weld some stack pockets on one of my trailers. He has a welding busness. He has a shop plus makes farm calls. I asked him about pricing on welding fabbed up corners and H braces. He said he charges $25 for corners and $15 for H braces. He ask the customers to have all pipe cut to length and angles. He'll take care of the grinding his self. He would prefer to do the work in his shop as opposed to on the farm.
 
   / Fence Questions #37  
You mentioned that you were going to 330 spacing because thats what length the rolls are. I have found this figure to be off. In addition you will need wire to wrap with. I would back it up to 320 or so to be on the safe side. I am curious as to how you attatch/wrap to steel as you need to keep tension but also need the end free to wrap.
 
   / Fence Questions #38  
I forgot to add- You will be very pleased with the Redbrand. Tractor Supply has quit carrying it in the 39 and 47 inch sizes and use a cheaper Keystone brand. Its odd since Keystone owns Redbrand that the Keystone is so chitty while Redbrand is so good. I buy mine from a hardware store now since TSC thinks they are doing us a favor buy selling junk for $10 less a roll.
 
   / Fence Questions #39  
I am surprised at how few people use old telephone poles. I don't see the need for all the bracing myself, I guess it might just be my conditions though.
 

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