fencing

[Soundguy]

Well.. it's finally come down to it. i've been putting it off.. but can't any more. The pasture down the road that I've been renovating has poor fence on it. The rear fence is back in a treeline about 20-30' in and is on the ground and has been that way since i bought the property. The front i was leaving unfenced so i could get down and mow / maintain it.. Finally had to throw up a t-post / 3 strand barb wire fence a few years ago to keep all the atv riders off the property.. they were rutting it up bad and making me go theu shear pins like candy. Pasture has pretty good grass on it now, but I wasn't planning on putting animals on it for a few more years as I got other irons inthe fire ( financially ) and can't put a barn/well/power there for a couple more years. Well.. with fl's hay shortage and drought continuing,, I finally decided I'm gonna have to move some animals out there next month. My main pasture has had it.. it's going bare.. and getting drier by the day, and no hay in site for at least a couple months.

I gotta get to the back and put up a fence.. preferably 2x4 wire on t post with wood corners and H braces every 100'. If the trees are too dense to get a decent looking woven wire fence in.. i may break down and go 5 strand barb wire.. though If it can be 'chainsawed to make the woven fence go.. I got my brand new poulan pro with me.

For the front i also want to go with 2x4 wire.. guess I'll have to pull all those 5' t post and drop in 6' ones for the new fence... Wish I'da put the bigger ones in and not saved a buck each when i did it the first time... oh well... live and learn.

Best part is i conned my best friend into coming over at noon to help me. By then I oughta have my tools loaded ont he trailer and been by TSC and lowes to get my fencing supplies.

Gonna be a loooong day.

See you guys!

Soundguy

 

[weldingisfun]

I'm right there with you brother. My bride and I are putting up another 800+ foot internal fence, with two gates, this weekend. Ran into some very solid rock on the third wooden post (8' of recycled power line pole). Went to HF for their 77 lb. Breaker Hammer on sale for $399, down from $499.
See posting #15 http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/89011-anyone-have-harbor-freight-coupon-2.html
If anyone is interested, will give you a performance report on the hammer.

In FL, bet you don't run into rocks, or do you?

 

[chadincolo]

I gotta get to the back and put up a fence.. preferably 2x4 wire on t post with wood corners and H braces every 100'.
Soundguy

Couple of questions for you, don't take them the wrong way, I'm trying to learn. Different parts of the country have different terms and needs...

What is 2x4 wire?

Why do you need braces every 100'? We used to pull a mile and a half of 4 strand barb wire to the corners, don't see what extra braces on a post would do in the middle of a run, do you tie off the wires every 100 feet? We only braced (I imagine the same type of thing you are calling an H-brace) at the ends of the fence, corners or on each side of a gate, because that's what held the tension.

Again, just wondering, if it's commonly done, there's surely a reason.

 

[okie350]

Ran into some very solid rock on the third wooden post (8' of recycled power line pole). Went to HF for their 77 lb. Breaker Hammer on sale for $399, down from $499.
See posting #15 http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/89011-anyone-have-harbor-freight-coupon-2.html
If anyone is interested, will give you a performance report on the hammer.

In FL, bet you don't run into rocks, or do you?

I bought the exact HF 77# jack hammer just for braking through the rock to set poles. It works very well, although you can not get very deep, so I modified it. I bought another bit, cut the end off and welded it to the spade bit to extend it another foot (spade bit works better at breaking the rocks) worked like a charm. It is still no easy task as it will work you to death pulling it out of the hole.

My next mod will be to weld a "cup" on the end of a bit and use it to drive "T" posts.

 

[Soundguy]

2x4 wire... horse fence.. has a 2" x 4" weave. Field fence is more like 4x4 or 6x6 ( cattle ).

I like an H brace on 2x4 fence aver hundred or so feet. maybee 200'.. just depends on the fence. Redbrand with heavy top wire and wire weave i can get away with H braces onthe corenere, and a single H brace in t he center on a 525' run.

1.5 miles and nothing but corners? Guess we got different wire than you do.

Locally the biggest roll of gaucho i can even buy is like 80 rods or 1.25 mile.

If I have wire up against a wood post.. i staple it.. if it's against a t-post.. I clip it.. I'm no fence expert.. but I can't imagine a 1.5 mile string of wire unsupported except on corners and having no sag or deflection. I'm afraid my cows would push their heads in and spread the wire..

Soundguy

Couple of questions for you, don't take them the wrong way, I'm trying to learn. Different parts of the country have different terms and needs...

What is 2x4 wire?

Why do you need braces every 100'? We used to pull a mile and a half of 4 strand barb wire to the corners, don't see what extra braces on a post would do in the middle of a run, do you tie off the wires every 100 feet? We only braced (I imagine the same type of thing you are calling an H-brace) at the ends of the fence, corners or on each side of a gate, because that's what held the tension.

Again, just wondering, if it's commonly done, there's surely a reason.

 

[Soundguy]

Update:

I got the fence inthe back.. Had to end up going barb wire on t-post with H braces at the corenrs.. was only a 335' run.. so no need for a center brace.. it stretched nice and tight just fine.

Font fence was reconfigured for a 4th strand without much work other than reclipping a couple wire strands.

Soundguy

 

[oliver28472]

Soundguy, why not high tensile?

 

[Soundguy]

I could not make a 100% straight path.. figure dthe HT would look kinda buggery not being able to zig zag a bit. Some of the tree's didn't cooperate in the fence line.. (grin)

soundguy

 

[chadincolo]

We never use any woven wire for anything but keeping rabbits out of gardens...all barb wire for everything, or cattle panels and/or wood fencing in working areas (sorting pens and around working chutes).

1.5 miles and nothing but corners? Guess we got different wire than you do.

Locally the biggest roll of gaucho i can even buy is like 80 rods or 1.25 mile.

If I have wire up against a wood post.. i staple it.. if it's against a t-post.. I clip it..
Soundguy

Sorry, should have said just steel posts the rest of the run, no additional bracing though, no problem getting the fence to maintain tension over a 1.5 mile run. Most of the wire is old...dating to homestead times. When we have done new fence, it's just 1/4 mile rolls, splice as needed. Cows won't challenge the fence unless they are out of food or water.

 

[weldingisfun]

I bought the exact HF 77# jack hammer just for braking through the rock to set poles. It works very well, although you can not get very deep, so I modified it. I bought another bit, cut the end off and welded it to the spade bit to extend it another foot (spade bit works better at breaking the rocks) worked like a charm. It is still no easy task as it will work you to death pulling it out of the hole.

My next mod will be to weld a "cup" on the end of a bit and use it to drive "T" posts.

I have been looking for bits everywhere. Where did you find them? I want to do the same thing, weld a cup for driving t-posts.

 

[okie350]

I have been looking for bits everywhere. Where did you find them? I want to do the same thing, weld a cup for driving t-posts.

I got them at Harbor Freight when I bought the jack hammer. The extra bits where in the section that had chisels and and sledge hammers.

 

[mboulais]

I need to put up some fence this summer too. I need to move our horse to the new property. Because it will be right beside the yard, I am going to put up a 3 rail wood fence. It's more expensive than field fence, but looks good. 4x4 posts 8' on center with 1x4 rails. All assembled with 3" deck screws. After the wood drys a little we'll paint it. I am thinking about 6 x 6's on the corners, haven't decided yet.

 

[tallyho8]

I need to put up some fence this summer too. I need to move our horse to the new property. Because it will be right beside the yard, I am going to put up a 3 rail wood fence. It's more expensive than field fence, but looks good. 4x4 posts 8' on center with 1x4 rails. All assembled with 3" deck screws. After the wood drys a little we'll paint it. I am thinking about 6 x 6's on the corners, haven't decided yet.

I would use 1x6s for the rails. It is very easy for a horse to lean on a 1x4 and break it. Don't ask me how I know.

 

[3RRL]

Chris,
I'm right there with you too. I've got to do 750' on the South border this Summer. Been avoiding it like the plague. Got the "T" posts already, just need to muster up the guts to start doing it. I'll have to go over a huge boulder so I'll be sledging some pipes into it and welding on the "T" posts.
Glad you got your's run already.

 

[Soundguy]

IMHO.. field fence is not suitable for full size equines.. ( perhaps for dwarf or minature ).

Your choice.. but... 1x6x16 ( 8' centers ) coral boards are probably a better choice for boards. For the price of 4x4 you could get 4x5x8 fence posts.. or save a buck or two and get 3x5 treated landscape timbers. Beware the 2$ untreated or surface treated only timbers.. get the ones made for ground contact that are more in line with fence post prices. i like them because of the flat for nailing boards. Almost as good as half rounds or split posts.. but cheaper.. For corners I use 6x8x8.. though a 6x6 should work fine for a board only fence.. though again.. is probably more expensive..

Screws? Again.. your choice.. but I don't know of many people screwing fence boards... -everybody- around here nails them.

Soundguy

I need to put up some fence this summer too. I need to move our horse to the new property. Because it will be right beside the yard, I am going to put up a 3 rail wood fence. It's more expensive than field fence, but looks good. 4x4 posts 8' on center with 1x4 rails. All assembled with 3" deck screws. After the wood drys a little we'll paint it. I am thinking about 6 x 6's on the corners, haven't decided yet.

 

[Soundguy]

Get this... I even got my friend to do all the t-post hammering.

When we started, we took tuns on the PHD to sink the wooden H braces and corners... after that it was tpost and wire running time.

I asked him if he wanted to walk and unroll the 60' wire roll or bang posts... he took one look at the barb wire and said.. Nah.. I'll bang posts! I'm glad i wore tall boots that day.. every now and then the roll bounced of my leg and shreded my pants a bit.

I got one of those tube style post pounders.. made short work of the t-post..
especially since i didn't have to do it!

Good luck

Soundguy

Chris,
I'm right there with you too. I've got to do 750' on the South border this Summer. Been avoiding it like the plague. Got the "T" posts already, just need to muster up the guts to start doing it. I'll have to go over a huge boulder so I'll be sledging some pipes into it and welding on the "T" posts.
Glad you got your's run already.

 

[dmccarty]

Screws? Again.. your choice.. but I don't know of many people screwing fence boards... -everybody- around here nails them.

I used screws on the "fence" near our gate. The fence is a 4x4 at the end away from the 6x6 that holds the tube gate. There is another pair of 4x4/6x6 post holding another tube gate on the other side of the road. There might be eight feet between the 4x4 and 6x6 posts. The "fence" ends in woods/ditch/drop off such that there is no way from a vehicle to drive around. An ATF MIGHT make it around on one side but it would be iffy.

Anywho, I put some boards up with screws. After a few months I would drive out to the property and I would find a board hanging loose. I thought someone was kicking the board loose to get past the gate. But the ground was super muddy and no foot prints. No prints on the boards either. No sign of being hammered either. The screw was broken in half. One end in the board and the other in the post. It took some umph to break that screw by pulling the shaft apart.....

So what happened? Best I can tell it was either the boards/post warping and/or water freezing between the board and post. I put in nails when putting the boards back up and have not had a problem since.

Later,
Dan

 

[mboulais]

Any fasteners are going to need to be either stainless steel or hot galvanaized to survive in the new PT. The snapped screws sound consistent with side loading on the screws. Screws are hardened and more brittle than nails. They can't take as much side loads, like from the two fence posts leaning away from each other after frost heave.

 

[riptides]

Get this... I even got my friend to do all the t-post hammering.

......

I got one of those tube style post pounders.. made short work of the t-post..
especially since i didn't have to do it!

Good luck

Soundguy

My SO and i just did about four acres worth of t-posts. She said it was the best abs exercise ever.

Beats going to a gym.

-Mike Z.

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. When i did the front fence.. my arms drew up and it was hard to tie my shoes for a few days!!

soundguy