Finished 7510 Remotes!

[PSDawg]

I would like to thank everyone on this forum. The info on this site has been great and a true time saver when it comes to projects like this. I started with the need for a front grapple. I bought the ATI grapple and the electric remote valve from W.R. Long. This is a great setup and works perfect! But I still had the need for an additional remote in the rear for a HTL. For this I used an Eaton Cessna 2-spool from Surplus Center and a cylinder from Redland Hill (cut to 16 1/2"). The most difficult part of this project was determining all the fittings and adapters required. I will post the listing here to hopefully save someone the time and money if you want to add remotes to your 7510/ 7610. Here are some pics.

Grapple......

 

[PSDawg]

Rear Remote.......

 

[PSDawg]

HTL...........

 

[Bob_Young]

Very nice, PSDawg. I especially like the way you mounted the remotes; very neat. Far better than the mounting the dealer used on my B7610. I'm going to have a look at converting what I've got into something that resembles your installation.

Good Job!
Bob

 

[PSDawg]

Parts List............

 

[Timber]

Very sweet, can I ask the final cost of the entire project

 

[rswyan]

Very nice install - great location - looks really clean.

I, like Bob, think I'm going to try and rework my remotes (three spool Prince SV valve on my B2910) to a similar location and mounting.

 

[accordionman]

SIR,
i am in the process of trying to do a top, and tilt.
i will have to shorten cylinders, or buy new
ones. do you have a website for the cylinders?
did these have the ball ends on them, or did you
have to rework them?
thanks, and good luck with your projects.
accordionman
wlbrown
wright city, mo.

 

[PSDawg]

I ordered the cylinder from Redland Hill and they do come with standard Cat 1 ball ends.

http://www.redlandhill.com/

Very good people to work with. They buy the cylinders, disassemble them, and then install the Cat 1 ends. I believe they buy in the tilt cylinders ready to ship.

 

[dholly]

Dawg - many thanks and a bubble for your beverage of choice after posting that parts list, it's a huge timesaver! Been leaning towards the same valve location on my 7610 too, but afraid the oem armrest kit will pose an operational or clearance issue.

 

[askfortom]

What was the cost of the cylinder? Also what was the total cost because I got a price of $900 for a top-n-tilt for my b7510.

 

[PSDawg]

The cylinders are ~$220 each (from Redland Hill) and expect to spend around $400 for all the fittings, hoses, and a 2-valve spool. So somewhere in the $850 range for a complete T&T plus 2 hours to install.

 

[dillo99]

PSDawg,

I am adding remotes to my B7500 and your post has been very helpful - thank you. I agree that determining all the parts and fittings is very time consuming.

Don't know if you will know the answer to this, but I have a question.

The work ports on the valve you used are SAE6. You take those down to 1/4 Quick Connects. The 1/4 quick connects have a flow rating of 3GPM - but the 7500 has a remote hydraulic output of 4.6 GPM and the valve you have selected has a 5PM rating. I hate to reduce the flow - might not matter for a toplink, but could matter for other stuff. Is there any reason you did not go with 3/8 quick connects? I'm not sure what SAE6 is...but I would assume it is bigger than 1/4????? I did notice that the valve is pretty compact - do you have much room around your 1/4 quick connects and do you think slightly larger quick connects would fit? (3/8")

Thanks for any input - I am basically ordering exactly what you did from Surplus Center but I was considering going with 3/8 quick connects instead of 1/4 inch.

Mike

 

[MadReferee]

Using 1/4" QD's is the same as restricting the line flow. It makes it a lot easier to feather and control the cylinder. You would be surprised how fast a cylinder will operate using 3/8" QD's vs 1/4" QD's. Reducing the size will only effect the speed (it will be slower) at which the cylinder operated.

SAE 6 threads are 9/16-18.

Physical size wise, 3/8" QD's are about twice the size of 1/4" QD's. As you can see from the picture the QD's on the right are 3/8" and the center and left ones are 1/4". I could have never put 2 or 3 sets of 3/8" QD's on that Prince SV valve. If you are placing the QD's remotely from the valve then I quess it doesn't matter. I am familiar with the Eaton-Cessna and I don't think 3/8" will fit unless they are angled away from each other.

 

[dillo99]

Thanks Mad - your answers are always very helpful.

I think I will use 1/4 QD's on one circuit and 3/8 QD's on the other. That way I will have a choice depending on what I want to power. I may try to use a 3ph log splitter (yea, I know it will be slow) and I will at least have a slightly faster circuit with the 3/8" side. I'll just use 45 degree angles or something to face them away from the 1/4's so there is enough room.

Thanks again.

 

[MadReferee]

Remember, it's not so much the QD size, it's the size of the hoses. Use 1/4" hose with 1/4" QD's. Same for 3/8".

 

[dillo99]

Got it. Thanks.

 

[Window Geek]

I might have to try this!