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   / First Post #41  
So both heads are cracked at the same spot on both cylinders? If that's the case we may all have that problem, that's to bad, for such a stout little engine, that appears to be a bad design detail.

But if it runs with no noticeable deficiencies that your sure are due to the cracked head, I'd say run it! Otherwise it might turn into a govt project, sure you could reconstruct the area between the valves and re machine it, but to do that to both cylinders may be cost prohibitive, even at $1,800.+ for new.

Did you say how many hours on these things, mine has close to 2700 on mine.

Good Luck,
JB.
 
   / First Post #42  
Havent seen any posts that I can remember about cracked heads on a 1700. Hopfully its an isolated incident, (thanks for taking the bullet for us jones!) Mine has 850 hrs on it, And I think JC was saying he had 900 plus hrs on his without any reported problems related to the head.

Seriously though, good luck with that jones, let us know how it turns out. Thanks
 
   / First Post #43  
Russel,
Any updates regarding your cracked heads?

JB.
 
   / First Post
  • Thread Starter
#44  
I just picked up everything from the machine shop this evening. I took both heads and I let the machinist pick the head to repair. He choose the first head that cracked from running hot, as the cracks were not in a water jacket. He said they were stress cracks. He installed new valve seats, milled the head surface and did a valve job. The head was pinned by another shop but they were too slow and I didn't let them finish.

The second head from the running tractor showed pitting in the combustion chamber. The machinist told me that the pitting was the result of coolant, or rather he said moisture, leaking into the chamber causing rust then running to burn it out and rust again. There was no sign of leaking or pressure building up in the radiator. It had to be a small leak.

The machine work ran me $240. That was to vat the block, bore .020 over, press in both main bearings, replace the freeze plugs, press in the wrist pin bushings, head work, and resurface the flywheel. I was satified with the price. By the way the inside of my block is not that pretty orange color anymore.

I was cleaing out the clutch housing and realized that I need to check the front transmission bearing and replace the front seal while I have it broken in half. This is a spare time project to rebuild the tractor and there hasn't been much spare time lately. I thought about starting a new thread on the rebuild progress.

Russell
 
   / First Post #45  
Hey Russell,

glad you're making good progress.:) you got a great price for the magnitude of the work your machine shop has done. we'll follow this or brand new thread if you choose to make. Keep us posted and take plenty of good pics to share when you get around doing it.

Good luck,
JC,
 
   / First Post #46  
Yeah sounds like a great deal, don't see how you couldn't be happy.
You have the whole motor out? Ya still gonna try and put the other one back together?

You will have that reliable machine you were after, when done.

This is your thread, but if you start another we'll find it.

keep up the good work, JB.
 

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