First Post

[JC-jetro]

Nice JC. Some times I wish I had turf tires to change into when the ground is wet. I noticed that you have a full rack of weights in the front, are those factory, or can you get after market ones that fit? Or maybe I need to get lighter implements! lol I've been pulling around this 5 ft cutter, pretty heavy but the Ford doesnt complain too much. Looks like you have plenty to mow out there yourself. Thanks!

Good morning Tex,

In my experience turf tire being wider and not as tall gives me a bit more stability. On the flip side I don't have the traction I occasionally need. Using a rotary tiller in lieu of disking, ripping alleviated much need for traction. For skidding lugs and stuff have no problems. I'm sure I'll have some issue box blading. I have been pulling a very heavy 5 foot brush hog and 1700 does not complain any at all. I had 2 front weight and added one more. That one extra weight for me hit the sweet spot as my tiller and brush hog is around 800 lbs. I would not waste my time trying to find old front suitcase weight. I found a few that did not fit well and still they wanted no less than a brand new one. Your local NH dealer will gladly sell you one for $60 and it fits like a glove about a $1/pound. My ground maintenance needs are minimal as cattle do most of the mowing and fertilizing and I keep my deer shooting lanes clear and try to keep the unwanted hedge and locust trees at bay.

JC,

 

[Texas Blues]

Good morning JC,
I know what you mean about the box blade. I have this 5 footer that is one of the thickest ones I've seen, that thing is heavy! When its on the ground, the Ford pulls it just fine. When its up high, the hydros strain somewhat, Im alittle concerned that its to heavy. Was trying to trade it off for a slightly smaller one, till i bought a .......shhhh....a Massey 135 lol. Im sure it will be fine on that tractor. I have left some ruts in the pasture with those ag tires that I wish I hadnt, but hey, it was time to play and I didnt want to wait till it dried up! lol Thanks!

 

[Texas Blues]

Also JC, yea, I see how yours sits alot lower and seems wider. I can see how that would be more stable. Im going to check the dealer and see what he has for weights. I have the two outer factory ones on it, probably have room for two more if they are narrow enough. Thanks again.

 

[jones6780]

Tex, here is a picture of my $2500 2WD taken today before I started taking the head off. The other picture show the results.

When it rains it pours. My intention was to use this head to rebuild and put on my 4WD 1700 that I am completely rebuilding the engine. Well low and behold this head was cracked and pinned as well. In the last 2 pictures you can see the crack between the valves along with cracks aroung the injection port. I will wind up taking both heads to the machine shop to get his opinion on which is the better head to repair and use.

Russell

 

[JC-jetro]

Russel,

Wow, what a bummer !! yikes, hate where the crack is, seems not enough of material there to grab on to. I'm sure you machinist has a better eye for it.

JC,

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

That sucks! I looked on the NH site and a new head is available but pricy $1895. I would do some checking to see if any of the locale machine shops can weld one of them. They have to have an oven to preheat the head before trying to weld it. I have had cast iron cylinder heads for my racecar welded up with no problems. You just have to have the right person do it. Also the metal has to be thick enough to weld. There is also a process that uses iron powder and a torch that works but I am not sure if it will take the cyl. pressure of a diesel engine.
Bill

 

[JB4310]

Wow jones, is that 2 cracked heads? what's the odds of that, do they run with that type of crack? maybe mine has that, it's rough on cold starts. Seems like obviously a vulnerable design, did you check compression?

Interesting idea about that internal paint to seal porous cast iron, if that's the case it would probably be dipped.

Here's a pic of mine today, using rake in snow.

 

[Texas Blues]

Man Jones, that is a bummer! How do you even weld something like that, or in that area anyway. Maybe you can find a good used head. Sounds like the new ones are out of this world. Did those motors run with those heads on them? If so, how did they act? Thanks.

 

[jones6780]

The pictures are from both chambers of one head and it was running with no blowby. I didn't check compression as it was running and compression leaks could be valves or rings too. It just seemed to cut out on one cylinder and it acted like an intermittant injector problem. Did you see the round areas at the ends of the cracks? There was a hole drilled at the end of the crack to stop the spread of the crack. It was then plugged by driving, press fit, a pin in the hole. This was an old repair. This is a common repair in place of welding when compression and coolant are not leaking.
I just wanted to put a good, uncracked head, on my engine rebuild that I am working. I have 2 heads, both cracked and pinned. I will take both to the machine shop and get help deciding which to use. I have checked with several salvage yards and they want around $800 for a naked head.

Russell

 

[Texas Blues]

I guess 800.00 isnt too bad (easy for me to say, its your money! lol). I guess used would be acceptable if its in good shape. Are the valves/springs/ and rockers in good shape otherwise?

Hey JB, it looks cold out there, cant you wait till summer to do that? lol