First time using a rear blade, man I really suck!

[Thomas]

First time you did well :thumbsup: just have practice little more.

Kinda cheating...use front end loader,tip bucket about 45 degree slant w/little down pressure slowly back drag high spot away,than use rear blade for finishing touches.

 

[oosik]

I really don't think it would be that hard on the linkages. Unless something goes seriously wrong - driving in reverse with the rear blade still in the "forward position" has never built up very much material in front of my blade. Max amount I've ever had was 3" to 4". With the blade in the reversed position it just does not dig up that much material. And it tends to dump it all at the very first chance.

If the build-up of material in front of the blade seems to be too much - reverse the blade and drive forward.

BTW - the pics of your driveway look like you have the new material spread pretty well. I'd just take one of your "normal" vehicles(car or pickup) and pack down the center. Or do as Thomas suggests with the bucket on your FEL.

 

[PJ The Kid]

Keep it forward, go slow, and set it to float, when set to float is should let the blade move relatively independent of the machine, also cut you angle back a but, 45* seems a little steep, and push it toward the center with the blade set flat, the you can back drag or blade the center a little higher to cut your crown in.

 

[Soldier415]

You are learning that the 'ol rear blade has a somewhat long learning curve. If I'm grading my mile long gravel driveway and using my rear blade - I do exactly as Birdhunter1 does. Reverse the blade and drive forward. The ups/downs in my driveway just cause the rear blade to dig and dump too often.

As a matter of fact - since I got my Land Pride GS2584 - land plane grading scraper - I haven't used the rear blade for that job any more. The LPGS grades the gravel, the Rhino 950 plows the snow.

I have a GS1560 LPGS that I use for refinishing. However the driveway is flat and not crowned which is why I wanted more material and use the blade to put a 4 degree crown on it. As it sat before all the water runs straight down and eats away at the bridge abutment.

Went out with the box blade and got a fair amount of it spread. Just hooked the blade back up. Contemplating turning it around and moving hydraulic cylinder

 

[Soldier415]

I really don't think it would be that hard on the linkages. Unless something goes seriously wrong -

Pretty sure I just did that with the box blade. Went in reverse to smooth out a section but forgot I had extended the top link so the rear facing blade dug in hard. Now the top link hydraulic cylinder is leaking where the piston goes into the cylinder

 

[powerscol]

First time you did well :thumbsup: just have practice little more.

Kinda cheating...use front end loader,tip bucket about 45 degree slant w/little down pressure slowly back drag high spot away,than use rear blade for finishing touches.

Ditto on this suggestion. Use the front bucket to take out the high spots first

 

[BKBoiss]

Going in reverse with loose stuff works really well. Just take your time and don't get in a rush. Like someone else also said don't be afraid to use your loader to knock down high areas. One last thing to get more of an even control on the up and down of the blade I set the three point hitch arms so the blade is level when on the ground then use my hydraulic top link for fine adjustments.

 

[Egon]

Rear gauge wheels will turn it into a different implement.

 

[CalG]

Keep it forward, go slow, and set it to float, when set to float is should let the blade move relatively independent of the machine, also cut you angle back a but, 45* seems a little steep, and push it toward the center with the blade set flat, the you can back drag or blade the center a little higher to cut your crown in.

PJ

You need to get out and try "floating" a rear blade in fresh stone. The blade fills and dives deep, pulling ALL the fresh material off with it. Not a good method at all. And if the blade is reversed, Float does nothing to distribute material unless you just want it to go out to the edges.

I just topped a few feet of my sloped drive . 4 yards of crusher run. The blade sensitivity to load and tractor pitch is the big challenge. Going very slowly, making depth adjustments as you go is about as good as one can do on a first effort. Top hydro control would be handy to better control the blade "bite". It can help to shorten up the top link to take some of the aggressive attitude out of the blade. ;-)

 

[/pine]

Unless a position is set a lowered 3ph is always in float...