first tractor for 30+ acres mountain land

[trinculo]

I just purchased 30 mountain acres in Western NC that I plan on homesteading over the next few years. Looking to purchase a tractor to bush hog, maintain gravel roads, possibly plow some smaller plots and to log some timber for milling. I believe I need a 4x4 and want a loader, bush hog and later an auger.

My budget is around $12K and below I've listed my options that found locally.

1. Used 1984 MF 294-4 with 1600 hrs, bush hog, loader, disk and 4 point plow within my budget.

2. Locally there is a dealer that has grey market remanufactured yanmar tractors that I could get between a 30-40hp with bush hog and loader for my budget. I'm not sure on parts and reliability. The dealer has been around 10 years.

3. There is also a Kubota dealer, but for my price it seems I would be getting a glorified yawn tractor if purchasing new.

4. I've seen some use Kubota's in the 20-30 hp range just over my budget.

5. There is a Northern Tools with their Chinese tractors.

What are everyones thoughts on these options? I'm leaning toward the MF, what should i look (out) for with a tractor that vintage.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[TripleR]

I would go with the MF personally. A lot of people have had really good results with them and if you are mechanically inclined or know someone who is you can keep one running forever.

 

[RPW]

Massey for sure. Others will probably be to light.

 

[IndyIan]

Those old MF's are low and heavy, I would've got one if I could've found a decent one for a good price. 1600hrs is suspicsiously low for a 30 year old farm tractor though. Could be 11600hrs? I looked at a 254-4 with 7000hrs and it ran very nice, and was told it hadn't been worked on much. No brakes and a cracked, welded, cracked some more loader on it, bald tires, and rusty welded up rims was still worth $11k on a dealer trade he said, so I didn't get it.

 

[tractorshopper]

Best advice I can offer you for where you bought property is to make sure whatever you buy has ROPS and a seat belt. (roll over protection)

 

[shortthrow50]

you shouldve budgeted for a the right tractor to maintain 30 acres before you purchased 30 acres. I dont see your logic. Not trying to sound like a prick but im just saying. Thats like buying a gas guzzler truck and not being able to buy gas for it

 

[flusher]

My neighbor uses an MF294 on his 30-acre irrigated alfalfa field. Nice, strong tractor.
If that 294 checks out after your thorough inspection and test drive and if the 1600 hours showing
on the meter can be verified, then I'd say go for it. The only negative I see is the relatively puny overall hydraulic flow capability (9.4 gpm) which might be a limitation depending on the type of implements you want to use on your place (e.g. any implement that uses a hydraulic motor).

I have a 1964 MF135 diesel deluxe with multipower. I bought it in Jul06 for $3600 with 4600 hours showing. It runs OK. It's in my shop now with oil leaks. It's a field tractor that's been modified to squat low for work in the local olive orchards. The usual 28" dia rear rim have been replaced by 16" dia rims carrying BF Goodrich 6-py 18.4-16A rubber (18" wide, 16" dia rim, 40" tall overall). The front axle spindles have been shortened to keep the tractor level. You might want to consider something like this if you "mountain land" is steep enough to be hazardous (tractor rollovers are no fun).



Good luck

 

[trinculo]

I looked at the Massey today and it has been outside for much of it's life. Consequently the hoses look dry rotted and cracked, small leaks in various places like the steering column. It cranked right up and ran for a few minutes then quit. Seemed like the fuel was low and possibly some trash in the filter or something. Also at first the 3p hitch would go up and down and then it stopped at the bottom and wouldn't return. Later it worked normally again. ONe thing that concerned me was that there were welded repairs around the p.vot points on the FEL.

It does not have any ROPS. THat will be the first thing I add if everything works out.

The owner has agreed to trailer the tractor to the local dealer and have an evaluation. I'm ok with replacing the hoses and things I can see so long as there are no major issues. If all checks out looks like I may have found more tractor than I was expecting to be able to afford.

Thanks for all the prompt answers and helpful advise., shortthrow50 excepted. It appears that I HAVE budgeted a sufficient amount for the needs of the property.

I also came across a few other 30-40hp JD and Kubotas locally that look to have potential if the MF doesn't pan out.

 

[Mark Page]

$12,000 is a mighty tight budget for what you want to accomplish. Do you want to be on the top of a mountain when a head gasket goes? I owned a 42 year old MF 35 Deluxe with a gas engine. Over the ten years I owned it I replaced a few hoses, ignition parts and put new tires on it and it never let me down. I've since owned a 231s and 2615 both have been trouble free.
Although I am strictly a Massey fan this one sounds like trouble, especially the welds. It sounds like some one really abused it. The 3pt thing also worries me. To get a total evaluation they will have to split the machine which is pricey. You might think you're getting a deal until buy it and things start going wrong. It will nickle and dime you to death.
As you stated 4wd is a must and I wouldn't want less than 35 hp, 45 would be better. Only consider ag tires on all 4 corners. Be sure to have the tires ballasted

 

[joshuabardwell]

You are right about one thing: you can't get near what you are looking for in a new Kubota--or any other brand, I think. But if you are willing to shop used, I think you can get in the ballpark. I did some searching in Asheville Craigslist and found a bunch of tractors, none of which was exactly right. For example, some had way more HP than you want. Most were 2WD and few came with loaders. But they were all in the $5k-10k range, which makes me wonder whether you just need to hang tight until the right one comes along. If you can buy a 110 HP 2WD tractor without a loader for $9k, shouldn't you be able to find a 40 HP 4WD with a loader for under $12k? Seems like so.

Here's something that looks close. Don't know how much HP you're thinking, but meets your requirements. Cub Cadet 30hp Tractor w/loader Oh heck. That's Knoxville by accident. Well, maybe it's worth the drive.

This one looks like it has potential. 750 John Deere 4x4 Compact Tractor No loader, but at that price, you could probably buy one with the leftover money. Only 20 HP though. Probably enough to get the job done, but you might want more.

New Holland TN65 4x4 Now there's a sweet tractor, but no price listed on the ad.

1428 MASSEY FERGUSON TRACTOR There's a Massey 1428, 4x4, for $7k, and they say they can add a loader. Would probably come in around $10-11k with a brand new loader, and less with a used one.

 

[LMan1967]

If you can buy a 110 HP 2WD tractor without a loader for $9k, shouldn't you be able to find a 40 HP 4WD with a loader for under $12k?

For whatever reason, that math doesn't seem to work out. It's not a linear progression there..:laughing::confused3:

 

[joshuabardwell]

For whatever reason, that math doesn't seem to work out. It's not a linear progression there..:laughing::confused3:

Are you saying the curve flattens out, or spikes up? Is it expensive to get to 40 HP, and then cheap to get from there to 100+? Or is it cheap to get to 40, but if you want to go higher, it shoots up? I think you're saying the first one.

 

[trinculo]

I just agreed to purchase a 2008 L3240 HST with 250 hrs + FEL and a bush hog. The local gentleman is delivering it tomorrow and bought it new from one of the two local dealers where he has had it serviced. It looks to be in very good condition and has been garage kept and used primarily for mowing. The man I am buying it from has a larger Kubota and bought this so he didn't have to remove his backhoe when he needed to mow.

So i went to one of the two local Kubota dealers, where I had gotten some prices from him on a new machine (L3200) , to look at some additional implements and told him what I was planning on purchasing.
He told me that nobody wants the hydrostatic machines and that in the mountains or doing any "real work" that the transmissions would slip and burn out and that it was an $8k repair. I asked him why a good number of the machines on his lot were HST and he said he would only sell them to people for mowing and light work and that the HST was likely the reason that the person was selling the machine that I was planning on buying.

I called two other dealers that I had been talking to and they had no idea what he was talking about and said MOST of the machines they sell were the hydrostatic machines and that they had never had one fail. They also said that by all accounts a Hydrostatic tractor was *better* in the mountains.They also concurred that the deal I was getting ($15K) was a good price and that they couldn't offer anything close in this price range, So . . . . .

Is this a common problem with the HST tractors?
Should I be concerned?

Also the topic on the topic of tires I have received conflicting information.
I have been told that Ag (R1) tires are better in the mountains because they have better traction, contrarily I have been told that most people want R4 tires because they sit lower and make the center of gravity lower.

I have also been told that putting liquid ballist in the tire is good and bad depending on who was opining.

Can anyone share any common wisdom here?

Thanks for al the help.

 

[PapaPerk]

Are u getting a loader on the tractor?

If you are using the tractor in fields and not operating on lawns, etc I would run the ag tires. Also ballast is a must. Filling the tires is probably the easier method. Just the back tires. Look into Rim Guard or windshield washer fluid.

The Kubota 30 and 40 grand l tractors are very nice. You should have no problems. They are the Lexus of the compact tractor world. Make sure to operate the tractor in 4wd when on hilly ground. Tractor in 2wd only can run away on u.

 

[trinculo]

There is a front endloader, Kubota LA 514.

The tractor comes with the R4 tires. Oh well, perhaps I can trade them in towards some ag tires.

 

[NHmitch]

I would go with R1's if you are not worried about driving on your front lawn because they will leave marks, but they will give you much more traction. R4's are kind of a cross between R1's, and turf tires. I would load your tires, and I actually have my front tires loaded on my 4x4 tractor, and they have been loaded for 30 years with no issues. I would just check with an LS dealer first, but that will provide you with extra ballast. Definitely the rears. If you need to take the loader off to mow, so you have a better turning radius, I would add suitcase weights to the front. The big thing is that you will have to take it slow to start, and until you get into your comfort zone. Also make sure you wear your seatbelt all of the time with the ROPS up. I have very hilly land as well, and I have almost rolled my tractor, and my grandfathers 100hp Deere, and it happens so fast you don' t have time to react. Thats great that you found a tractor, and you will have to post photos when you get it! Congratulations!

I just agreed to purchase a 2008 L3240 HST with 250 hrs + FEL and a bush hog. The local gentleman is delivering it tomorrow and bought it new from one of the two local dealers where he has had it serviced. It looks to be in very good condition and has been garage kept and used primarily for mowing. The man I am buying it from has a larger Kubota and bought this so he didn't have to remove his backhoe when he needed to mow.

So i went to one of the two local Kubota dealers, where I had gotten some prices from him on a new machine (L3200) , to look at some additional implements and told him what I was planning on purchasing.
He told me that nobody wants the hydrostatic machines and that in the mountains or doing any "real work" that the transmissions would slip and burn out and that it was an $8k repair. I asked him why a good number of the machines on his lot were HST and he said he would only sell them to people for mowing and light work and that the HST was likely the reason that the person was selling the machine that I was planning on buying.

I called two other dealers that I had been talking to and they had no idea what he was talking about and said MOST of the machines they sell were the hydrostatic machines and that they had never had one fail. They also said that by all accounts a Hydrostatic tractor was *better* in the mountains.They also concurred that the deal I was getting ($15K) was a good price and that they couldn't offer anything close in this price range, So . . . . .

Is this a common problem with the HST tractors?
Should I be concerned?

Also the topic on the topic of tires I have received conflicting information.
I have been told that Ag (R1) tires are better in the mountains because they have better traction, contrarily I have been told that most people want R4 tires because they sit lower and make the center of gravity lower.

I have also been told that putting liquid ballist in the tire is good and bad depending on who was opining.

Can anyone share any common wisdom here?

Thanks for al the help.

 

[joshuabardwell]

There is a front endloader, Kubota LA 514.
The tractor comes with the R4 tires. Oh well, perhaps I can trade them in towards some ag tires.

Why don't you give the R4's a try before you worry too much about it. The debate about R4 and R1 is a hot one, and there are pros and cons to both. R1's have more traction, it's true, but they are also narrower. R4's are specifically designed for loader work, and are wider. R4's are also usually thicker, which means they resist punctures better than R1's, which is a priority if you are doing a lot of work in the woods.

If you swap your tires, you will also have to buy new wheels, because R4 tires do not generally fit onto the same size wheels as R1 tires--not an insignificant expense. You may find that R4's do everything you need and then some, and if you don't like them, you may find that chains make up the difference instead of a whole new set of tires.

 

[joshuabardwell]

As for loading the tires, there is some debate here too. Loaded tires are good in that they don't put any additional weight on the axle, and they are as low to the ground as you can get, lowering your center of gravity. Good for stability and traction. But on the other hand, you can't easily un-weight the tires if you wanted to for some reason (want to lighten up the tractor to leave a lighter footprint in the wet ground), and loaded tires do not take weight off the front axle, which is a must for loader work. By comparison, a ballast box on the three-point-hitch can easily be dropped if needed. It rides behind the rear axle, which means that it takes weight off the front axle, which is a must for loader work.

Check your user manual to confirm this, but it's my impression that most compact tractors with loaders are specced for either a heavy ballast box OR a slightly lighter ballast box WITH loaded tires, not loaded tires by themselves. The reason for this is that loaded tires alone leave all of the weight of the loader (and its cargo) on the front axle, which the axle is not designed to take. Additionally, the weight of the loaded tires is simply not enough to counterbalance the full weight of the loader for safe operation (e.g. not tipping over or raising the rear wheels off the ground while going downhill). Therefore, no matter what, if you have a loader, you should be looking at a ballast box too. Then you just have to decide whether, in addition to the ballast box, you want loaded tires.

One advantage of loaded tires that I didn't mention is that they are still helping you out even when you have a different implement on the 3ph. If you are out there hogging or what-have-you, you won't have the ballast box on the 3ph, because you'll have another implement back there. Some implements are as heavy as a ballast box, but many are not, and in that case, the additional stability of the loaded tires can be a godsend.

 

[trinculo]

So i took delivery of the tractor today. It looked like it was basically new. It came with a 5' Howser bush hog with extra new blades.
It does have the R4 rear tires already filled with ballast. I was also mistaken about the loader it is the LA 724 which i believe is a stronger loader. IT has the quick connect bucket. It apparently is still under warranty. 251 hours for 15k all in delivered, so i did go over my original budget but got way more tractor than I had planned on. Thanks for all the advice.

 

[ddb123]

So i took delivery of the tractor today. It looked like it was basically new. It came with a 5' Howser bush hog with extra new blades.
It does have the R4 rear tires already filled with ballast. I was also mistaken about the loader it is the LA 724 which i believe is a stronger loader. IT has the quick connect bucket. It apparently is still under warranty. 251 hours for 15k all in delivered, so i did go over my original budget but got way more tractor than I had planned on. Thanks for all the advice.

Sounds like a great tractor. My L3540 has loaded R4s and LA724 loader. You are going to be really happy. The HST is just like the "other two" dealers told you. That first guy was just trying to sell you one of HIS tractors. My property is hilly and the HST is worlds better than the gear I used to have. With 4wd the R4s will give you all the traction you need. And to top it off, you got a great price. Congrats and happy tractoring.

P.S. Pictures make us happy