Flatbed Trailer for a Bridge

[Rockin' G Ranch]

I found a 8' x 40' flatbed trailer that I think would make a good bridge.The bridge is needed for my tractor. The seller will pull it to my ranch (40 miles one way), take off the axles and install the trailer across the stream for $1,200. The trailer is in very good condition with an adequate wood deck for a bridge. I plan to just pull it across the stream (currently dry) and let the trailer ends just lie on the ground. It will be about 5' above the stream bed. The stream is about 20' wide and dry 90% of the time and even after very hard rains does not go out of its bank.
Has anyone done this? Do you have pictures? Does the price seem right? Thanks.

 

[magicheater]

No info on this but what a great idea!!!!

 

[schmism]

i say go for it, but i would put some concrete abutments with rebar and weld it to the frame as opposed to just setting it on the ground with no prep.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

It was much shorter I saw something on that order. For an abutment he used old utility poles cut into lengths that left a few inches sticking out of the post holes he dug. That would keep the metal out of the dirt and you could back fill each end for a ramp. Of course one could counter sink it in the soil.

On the second thought just give him the $1200 and get it done. In a year or two you can do it differently if you see the need.

 

[scoutcub]

I found a 8' x 40' flatbed trailer that I think would make a good bridge.The bridge is needed for my tractor. The seller will pull it to my ranch (40 miles one way), take off the axles and install the trailer across the stream for $1,200. The trailer is in very good condition with an adequate wood deck for a bridge. I plant to just pull it across the stream (currently dry) and let the trailer ends just lie on the ground. It will be about 5' above the stream bed. The stream is about 20' wide and dry 90% of the time and even after very hard rains does not go out of its bank.
Has anyone done this? Do you have pictures? Does the price seem right? Thanks.

Does he have any more to sell, deliver and install?? I'm up against the same issue, but WAY down the road. I'm already scheming in my head on how to do it, I'm thinking a bunch of logs bound together, and plank over the top of them....but lots of work.
IMO, for 1200 bucks to sit back and watch, you are doing extremely well.

 

[MikeD74T]

Trailers make great bridges. Some just dig holes for the wheels & landing gear. Makes a good anchor to prevent the flood current moving everything downstream. MikeD74T

 

[magicheater]

i say go for it, but i would put some concrete abutments with rebar and weld it to the frame as opposed to just setting it on the ground with no prep.

I second this idea.

 

[RalphVa]

I bought some aluminum ATV ramps to cover a drainage area into a culvert underneath my driveway, to keep the driveway from being eroded away. I then installed a mortarless wall on top the ramp beside the driveway. This has worked great for almost 10 years now. It's a similar idea to what you're proposing.

I've built 2 types of bridges across small streams between my property and neighbors'. I've made one just out of 4x4s with 1bys across them. This, of course, will not support the tractor. For tractor access to do trails across the neighbors' properties, I put in some PVC pipes parallel to the stream and covered them with earth, rocks and concrete. I put a 4x4 along the top on the upstream side to keep it from being eroded there. This has worked well. I occasionally have to put in some river rocks because even they sometimes get carried away. Putting full bags of rocks or whole bags of cement seem to work the best rather than pouring the contents out.

I've recommend tying your trailer to some big trees or to big stakes upstream if you don't have the trees nearby. My wooden foot bridge is done this way. Maybe the trailer will be heavy enough to not float away, but I'd still do the ties.

Ralph

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

Thanks for the comments. Here is a picture of the trailer. The owner will remove the axles and front jack prior to installing it as a bridge. I will take more pictures when it is installed.

 

[radioman]

That trailer looks like it's in decent condition. However, I do second some sort of foundation for the trailer to sit on. It doesn't matter if you dig a hole and fill with large boulders, or concrete/rebar or blocks or put large logs like locust or cedar with flat top. Understandably the logs will rot away over time, but will last as long the trailer is since its buried.

 

[Topstrap]

Looks like a super way to put in a good strong bridge easily. Like others have said something to keep it up out of the dirt will add a lot of life to it. Even digging a footer across each side to let the ends sit on would be great and you could add some bolts imbedded in the footers to set the trailer frame down on to held hold in position.

Topstrap

 

[TYMinColton]

A steal at $1200 installed. Go for it. I spent 6 months on craigslist looking for an old trailer to ford a stream and couldn't find anything close to the deal you've been promised. . . . :thumbsup:

 

[Rockin' G Ranch]

A steal at $1200 installed. Go for it. I spent 6 months on craigslist looking for an old trailer to ford a stream and couldn't find anything close to the deal you've been promised. . . . :thumbsup:

WTB: Old worn out flatbed trailer (30' minimum length) to use as a bridge across a stream.
Took me 1 day on craigslist to find this one.
I will be meeting him at the property on Friday to review the installation. He made his offer "sight unseen" so I may be able to get it done for less - but I don't take advantage of anyone so if he says "a-deal-is-a-deal", I will honor his offer.

 

[oscar94]

That is a great deal! I have looked at using a railroad flatcar as a bridge over my 20' wide creek. they wanted $10,000 for the car alone! total bridge was going to be high 20's all said and done.

 

[Catch95]

Hi,

I'm currently doing a bridge myself. I'm using a bolster style shipping container. Similar to a flat rack but without the folding ends. These come in 20 foot and 40 foot and are available anywhere you can get shipping containers. Fit onto any truck that can handle a container.

Worth investigating. I've attached some pics of a bolster (doesn't have to have the holes in the top) plus one of a nicely done up bridge made from one.

Mark

 

[creeker]

I'm new to this site so I hope you all will bear with me. I've read through the recent threads and noticed that it's been a year or so since the last posting; I'm hoping to get some updated advice and info.

Anyway, I'm looking into building a bridge with (2) old 8' x 40' flatbed trailers @ $1400.00 each that I lucked into. They are hard to find. It's even harder to find local "bridge builders" who are familiar with using alternative (to wood, I beams, or concrete) materials; most are more comfortable installing culverts.

Meanwhile, I've had the opportunity to look at a bridge that crosses over a much larger stream to a wrecker service business. The owner did this project himself [using (2) 8' x 40's and (1) 8' x 45] and has routinely driven semi's across the bridge over the past 10 years. It seems very sturdy but the wood needs replacing; he milled his own oak and used 1"x6" decking on the more worn part and 2"x6" in other areas and said he should have used 2" thickness throughout.

He says he can pick up and deliver my flatbeds to my property, cut off the extraneous stuff, and winch them in place over my stream. He feels that it will take him and an assistant 3-4 hrs; he hasn't quoted me a price yet. He said I would need to "frame and pour the concrete".

I have heard that I can get very large concrete blocks at extremely reasonable prices. The concrete company pours excess concrete into the forms at each day's end. Obviously, there would be multiple pourings/dryings so I'm not sure if this impacts strength/lifespan.

My stream is approx 5 feet deep (although water's just about 6" now) and 20 feet wide so the flatbeds will extend approx 10 feet on each side of the stream's edges. We had a very wet season 2 years ago and many culverts were washed out across the street where my stream meets up with another stream. So, you can see that I'm pretty concerned that I don't do this project and then face a re-do when we have another wet year! I could probably do OK with just a single 8' width except I will need access across the stream for construction of the house, septic, well, etc. and imagine that the larger trucks will need more width than my car does.

The ground does freeze here but at this moment, I'm not sure what the frost level is.

I want to avoid disturbing (i.e digging) the soil around the stream/woodland as much as possible and try to limit heavy equipment soil compression also. I also would love to be able to balance functionality/safety/cost containment with appearance. I'm not sure how much "pretty" costs when you're building a bridge!

My goal is to act as my own contractor and get this project done well and within a reasonable budget. Obviously, I don't have a working knowledge of bridge building but I do want to educate myself and make sure that the folks that I hire will do the work correctly.

As always, I have to remind myself that this doesn't have to be a monster project and the mother of all bridges. I'm 55 years old, won't put a bunch of wear and tear on the bridge after the house is built, and am not really concerned that it last beyond my lifespan.

So, here are my questions:

1. What is the best way to support the ends of the flatbeds? Do I need to dig footings? If so, how deep, how wide; should they be continuous or is spaced OK? What about the large concrete blocks? How about just small concrete blocks laid above ground to set the edges on to keep the metal off the soil?

2. What would be the most economical, long-lasting way to deck the flatbeds? What's the best wood/dimensions. I'm sure concrete would be more expensive than wood; would it significantly reduce the load capability? If concrete is an option, what inexpensive material could be used to line the flatbed for a poured concrete deck? Alternatively, what about using gravel over some sort of permeable retaining material?

3. Any suggestions and instructions for railing?

4. How much money/sweat equity should I invest in scraping and painting the flatbed?

5. Any thoughts about a permanent installation of just one 8' x 40' flatbed (for my car access) and a temporary installation of the 2nd flatbed next to it until house construction is complete? I do need to keep in mind that in the event of a fire (heaven forbid), I might need a wider bridge for fire truck access.

I'd appreciate any thoughts and suggestions. I'm sure there are more issues I haven't even dreamt of yet.

 

[forgeblast]

Printable Covered Bridge Plans

might help you out. First where are you at so people can tell you how far down you have to dig for your foundation.
I have seen almost every bridge have a poured "frame" to connect the base to, if its not there you would have nothing to connect it to.

The decking on the link I posted i think they did a staggared frame one in a side to side pattern the other at an angle to provide more support.

 

[beeforty]

A word of caution on using flatbeds for bridges. If you are building a house or structure check with your local fire department or building dept. as to minimum requirements. In my area I think you need to be RATED @ 25 tons. I have a neighbor who had one that wasn't, the FD pulled up to it started dragging hose and kept his house fire from speading to the trees and hill, total loss. His insurance didn't cover him because of his inadeqaute bridge which I wouldn't have walked in the dark. They're ok for extra access but beware. Isometimes wonder why are they selling something that is still usable for it's intended purpose. Ive even seen a couple of trailers with broken frames on the road that let go. Same with rail cars, another neighbor used one and he had to take out a second mortgage although he is taxed handling a shovel.

 

[jbarker855]

Hi Creeker-
I can't give you the answer for the "best" way to do things, cause I'm not sure I know. I can tell you a bit about our bridge though, which has been in place for the last 30 years and is still quite solid.
We have a flatbed railcar for a bridge. It's 8' wide, 90' long, and sits on railroad ties at either end. Hasn't shifted a bit in 30 years. The soil it sits on is fairly well drained though, and the bridge deck is about 12 foot above high water level. We protect the bank that it sits on with a wall of huge boulders put in place with a dozer. I put smaller rocks in every year in my spare time with my tractor.
It would be great if you could keep your bridge double wide. Septic trucks are big. So are trucks that are needed to pour concrete for that new, bigger garage down the road. Think you may want your driveway paved or repaved down the road? More big trucks. Our full size moving truck was a TIGHT fit on our bridge as well. Do yourself a favor and keep it double wide if you can.
Our railing is good only to protect pedestrians. It's not strong enough to protect vehicles from going over the edge. But the bridge has an integral lip on either side that goes up 8", so you'd have to drive like a dummy to go over the edge. Our railing is made of pipe, cable, and 4x4's. Pipe is welded in vertical position to act as posts. There's a pipe every 8 feet. They have a square flange welded to their top, so that 4x4's layed horizontally can be lag bolted to them.
Not too many people have a bridge, so I will be very interested to see how things work out for you. I hope some of this helped.
-Jay

 

[jbarker855]

Oh yeah-
I think a poured concrete deck would be WAY too heavy, and would decrease from the max load your bridge could support, but that's just my guess. See what others say.