Flatbed trailer for ATV

[capi75rs]

Hey everyone, After much thought and sore mussles, I'd like to build a trailer that I can pull behind my ATV. This year's dear hunting season has really took it's toll. 9 deer between 2 of us hunting, (this also includes archery and shotgun seasons). I have found a trailer that "would work" but is not what I really want. I want something that is low to the ground, no higher than 12" to the top of the bed, has stake pockets for removable railing or can be used to attach ratchet straps and is about 3 to 3 1/2 feet wide and 4' long. The terrain that I'm hunting has several low water creek crossing that are rough and lots of steep hills (nothing dagerous). The trailers that I've found that "would work" seem to be very "lightly" built trailers. I need to hold a min of 250 lb and would like something that could hold closer to 400 lb. The main, but not sole purpose of this trailer would be to carry deer out of the timber. So to sum it up I need a heavy duty trailer 3 1/2' by 4' that is no taller than 12" high (lower would be better) and can handle at least 250 lb.
If you have built one or have any pic or insight please let me know. I have about 10 months to get this finished.

 

[john_bud]

I would get some 2000# capacity torsion axle stubs so the tires are independently acting and there is no connecting tube between them to get hung up. (Ever been stopped dead from 20 mph while on an ATV? It HURTS). Use 1x2" heavy wall tube steel or thinner 2x3" and buy pre-bent stake pockets and weld them on. I would make it 4'x8' with cross supprorts every 16" of 2x2x3/8" angle. Make the tongue a V with a center support. The tongue may get bent up on steep crossings otherwise.

I think you are asking for trouble with the 12" high bed as you will be scrapping bottom all the time. If you are having "issues" putting your huge deer back there, build a fold down ramp so you can pull them up while you walk in.

The larger size is because every trailer I have ever had eventually became too small. IMHO, your is starting out too small. My construction would also be strong enough to allow you to load it with dirt, etc.

 

[GuglioLS]

Capri,

I made a low profile trailer for firewood hauling up and down my steep hills, it's not a flat bed. I once over filled it with green logs, and safely made it down some steep hills. Upon my return I weighed all the logs a few at a time on a bathroom scale. To my surprise I hauled 1100 pounds of wood with an 800 pound ATV. Something like this may work for you. I used a rear end off a 1965? Plymouth Valiant with 13" wheels. Used C channel for the frame and 1/4" X 2" square tube for the tongue. 2"x8" lumber for the floor. 16" I beam wood trusses for the sides.

Larry

 

[capi75rs]

I would get some 2000# capacity torsion axle stubs so the tires are independently acting and there is no connecting tube between them to get hung up. (Ever been stopped dead from 20 mph while on an ATV? It HURTS). Use 1x2" heavy wall tube steel or thinner 2x3" and buy pre-bent stake pockets and weld them on. I would make it 4'x8' with cross supprorts every 16" of 2x2x3/8" angle. Make the tongue a V with a center support. The tongue may get bent up on steep crossings otherwise.

I think you are asking for trouble with the 12" high bed as you will be scrapping bottom all the time. If you are having "issues" putting your huge deer back there, build a fold down ramp so you can pull them up while you walk in.

The larger size is because every trailer I have ever had eventually became too small. IMHO, your is starting out too small. My construction would also be strong enough to allow you to load it with dirt, etc.

Thanks for the info, currently I do have a larger trailer but it is too big for the trails, and with @ 5 miles of trials throughout the farm, I'm not looking to wide'n the trails so the only other options is to get a smaller trailer. I currently have a small yard style (for a lawn tractor) trailer but it is cumbersom trying to get a deer in it and it is very light duty. I've already bent the heck out it. I do like the "V" tongue idea, I haven't thought of that. The scraping on the bottom is one of the issues I think I may have as well, even thought of making some kind of tandem axle to help with that. All options are open. Thanks again.

 

[capi75rs]

Capri,

I made a low profile trailer for firewood hauling up and down my steep hills, it's not a flat bed. I once over filled it with green logs, and safely made it down some steep hills. Upon my return I weighed all the logs a few at a time on a bathroom scale. To my surprise I hauled 1100 pounds of wood with an 800 pound ATV. Something like this may work for you. I used a rear end off a 1965? Plymouth Valiant with 13" wheels. Used C channel for the frame and 1/4" X 2" square tube for the tongue. 2"x8" lumber for the floor. 16" I beam wood trusses for the sides.

Larry

Larry, nice looking trailer. Something like this may work, I would need to have the sides removable though. With two people, putting in a deer into a trailer your size would not be a problem, but with a single person trying it, it would be a chore. My current trialer is simmular to this one, but not at all as stout as what you have. I didn't think about using a small rear end from a car, I may have to pay a visit to the local salvage yard and see what they have. Thanks for the ideas.

 

[Workstead]

... The scraping on the bottom is one of the issues I think I may have as well, even thought of making some kind of tandem axle to help with that. All options are open. Thanks again.

You might consider some form of sled runners under your trailer where it might drag. I did that with a travel trailer I had years ago. The long overhang at the back end would drag going up and down my driveway. I curved both ends of the runners so it wouldn't catch either way.

Clem

 

[F.L. Jennings]

I built this one for my ATV. Finally nuked the small tires shown in this photo(came from a surrey type JD mower) and so put and old conventional axle under it. It is a dump trailer and I also use it behind my L4200. The old wooden bed I originally built was deteriorating, so I covered it with Corrugated/Galvanized roofing steel. Used mainly as a fire wood hauler but also for topsoil etc. Easy to build from misc. salvaged steel.

The stub axles used originally allowed you pass over stumps etc.

The latch you see at the front of the bed is the dump latch. More of the trailer is to the rear of the axle, allowing the weight to dump the contents.

Frank

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Hey everyone, After much thought and sore mussles, I'd like to build a trailer that I can pull behind my ATV. This year's dear hunting season has really took it's toll. 9 deer between 2 of us hunting, (this also includes archery and shotgun seasons). I have found a trailer that "would work" but is not what I really want. I want something that is low to the ground, no higher than 12" to the top of the bed, has stake pockets for removable railing or can be used to attach ratchet straps and is about 3 to 3 1/2 feet wide and 4' long. The terrain that I'm hunting has several low water creek crossing that are rough and lots of steep hills (nothing dagerous). The trailers that I've found that "would work" seem to be very "lightly" built trailers. I need to hold a min of 250 lb and would like something that could hold closer to 400 lb. The main, but not sole purpose of this trailer would be to carry deer out of the timber. So to sum it up I need a heavy duty trailer 3 1/2' by 4' that is no taller than 12" high (lower would be better) and can handle at least 250 lb.
If you have built one or have any pic or insight please let me know. I have about 10 months to get this finished.

I built this dump cart out of lawn mower axles...

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/87841-dump-trailer.html

It's not exactly what you are looking for. The bed is higher than 12", and it's a hydraulic dump; but the dimensions are about what you are looking for, and the bed sides are removable. I got a lot of great advice from TBN members while I was building. It would be worth your while to read the thread and gather up some of the ideas and advice that are in it.

I love the trailer. It's just the right size, and it pulls pretty nicely. All said and done it cost me under $500 including the hydraulics and the paint.

 

[George2615]

For just a cheap trailer about the size you want check out Harbor Freight. They have one for $150. They also have others available.

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

 

[neucam]

Yes Harbor Freight and our local farm hardware store has a 4 X 4 trailer that could be used easily and could hold a lot of weight. It might be cheaper in the long run than to construct one from scratch. I have a 4x8 trailer from my farm supply and it holds 1200 lbs and is easily towable with anything. It weights maybe 300lb+ with 4 sides on it.

 

[wushaw]

That HF trailer with some FAT tires would probably be a decent low cost choice.

Here is something to look at. Single axle ATV trailers for off-road use by Country ATV

 

[Lurch]

Not a trailer, but for moving deer out of the woods we use those cheap plastic long sleds you can buy most anywhere in the fall. No matter how big the deer one man can roll it on the sled. Loop the rope around the leg on each side to lessen the strain on the plastic so the rope doesn't pull out, attach to ATV. Even on rocky ground they usually last a couple seasons.

 

[tornadowatchranch]

cabela's and the like has some of the sleds but very heavy duty for carrying decoys. Harbor freight has a small trailer (3x4) that all you have to do is add plywood for the bed. I tow this often with my atv.

 

[MarkV]

I'd be concerned about the 12" height limit. It seems to me you would be bottoming out all the time and you would also have to run some very small tires to stay at that height. If loading is the concern how about making it a tilt bed with a hand winch mounted on the front.

MarkV

 

[Iplayfarmer]

If loading is the concern how about making it a tilt bed with a hand winch mounted on the front.

MarkV

I'll second that suggestoin. I'm a wimp! Anything I can do to improve my mechanical advantage is usually worth it. Hand winches are pretty cheap too.

 

[pat32rf]

Long time back I needed much the same as you, only I had to haul it on the road as well. Made the frame out of electrical "unistrut". Four feet wide, six feet long, lift-off sides which doubled as ramps. The tonque was "A" shaped to deflect trees in the bush and hinged so the frame could tilt.
I've learned that wide tires are good, but tires with a large diameter are better at rolling over rocks and logs. By using the rear suspension from a VW Rabbit I got good ground clearance (no axle) and mounting the tires just outside of the frame gave me suspension movement. With the trailer hooked to the ATV one person can lift the rear and move it to the side, yet it still carries a 700lb bike down the highway or a 1000lb moose thru the bush. (I have a winch on the rear of my bike, I just winched it onto the tilted trailer.)
I've owned and used this trailer for over 30yrs now and other than replacing the plywood floor and tail-lights its done a great job.

 

[soarkrebel1]

Here's mine I built.......


http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa140/soarkrebel/100_2069.jpg

 

[foggy1111]

Check the Polar ATV trailer from Northern Hydraulics. Poly bed tilts and pivots...almost indestructible....easy to load deer, bear, leaves, dirt, tools, wood, etc and cleans up easy. 800 lbs or so capacity. Several other brands with similar build now being produced around here. Nice wide tires and trails perfectly behind a 4 wheeler. I have one and like it alot. About $250.

 

[foggy1111]

ooops....you want to build one. Sorry.

 

[capi75rs]

ooops....you want to build one. Sorry.

I only want to build one if I couldn't find one that would be what I needed for the right price. Everyone has great ideas. I'm seriously considering the sled that was mentioned above. I don't have many rocks to drag the sled over. My problem is I have a bad back. Too much "HeMan" BS when I was a little younger and now I'm paying the price. Thanks for the info.
Rod