Ford 641 project

[Soundguy]

choke on a red tiger is not dash mounted.. and is NOT cable operated.. it's ROD operated.

look at the base of the steering box, left side.. there will be ( should be ) a lil metal tab, bent up with a hole in it, under a steering box hold down bolt.. rod passes thru there and to the choke arm on the carb. easy to make up with some 3/32 or 1/8 rod if you have to.

 

[Soundguy]

here is a close up and then a farter out shot.

first pic I have removed the choke rod head to as I am working on the starter switch.

next pic is a different, dirty tractor.. but you can see the rod go behind the air cleaner.

3rd pic shows yet another tractor of mine I added a foot throttle to, and you can see the choke pull head / rod

next pic you can see an old 950 trike I'm working on, and you should just be able to make out the rod running from the base of the steering box over to the carb, air cleaner is removed.. so is vissible

next pic, same tractor.. closer up.. after I got her back together

hope this helps

 

[8NLUGNUT]

Thanks for the pictures! The previous owner was starting the tractor by standing next to it and working the choke on the zenith by hand. There is no choke assembly on the tractor. I'm gonna use a basic cable type and rewire the neutral safety switch so I don't have to stand next to the tractor to start it. I think I can fab up something that looks like whats in your pictures. Just have to think about it a little.

 

[kf4uda]

Here is the original one for $16.75.

ford tractor choke rod | eBay

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. just a bent tab of metal and a 3/16 rod , at a minimum, will do it. I seen em like that ho-made.. and the rod was pinched at the end to capture the choke rod connection at the carb, and at the op platform, it was rolled to a loop for a finger. looks like could be made free from scrap angle iron or thin flat, 2 drill bits.. grinder.. hammer, vice, and some stif-stiff wire or thin rod.. pair of needle nose pliers.. etc.

I've made starter and choke rods for allis chalmers G tractors that way... metal dowel rod..e tc.

 

[8NLUGNUT]

yep.. just a bent tab of metal and a 3/16 rod , at a minimum, will do it. I seen em like that ho-made.. and the rod was pinched at the end to capture the choke rod connection at the carb, and at the op platform, it was rolled to a loop for a finger. looks like could be made free from scrap angle iron or thin flat, 2 drill bits.. grinder.. hammer, vice, and some stif-stiff wire or thin rod.. pair of needle nose pliers.. etc.

I've made starter and choke rods for allis chalmers G tractors that way... metal dowel rod..e tc.

Hmm. I did that for a Model B. Ya'll got me thinking now.

 

[8NLUGNUT]

Here is the original one for $16.75.

ford tractor choke rod | eBay

I saw something similar to that at the scrapyard the other day. I also have a scrap A/C 4 cyl power unit that has some linkage left on it.

 

[Soundguy]

this one's a non-thinker.. any semi stiff 3/16 rod / wire and you are 90% there.. that and a bent metal tab with 2 holes.. etc. easiest thing you will ever fix on that tractor..

 

[8NLUGNUT]

Being a tightwad I decided I would try to fix the broken terminal block on the 641 and use it here this week when I revert the electrical system back to the original set up. Whadda you think will it work. If so JB Weld did me right again.

 

[carlntexas]

I'm not to sure that will work, but all it cost was a little JB weld. That thing looks like it's been through some rough times.

 

[8NLUGNUT]

I'm not to sure that will work, but all it cost was a little JB weld. That thing looks like it's been through some rough times.

I know it's pretty rough. I brushed off the threads on the original bolt so I don't torque it off later when I rewire. Hopefully it will hold. If not no biggie. Maybe it will work better if I put some red paint on it.

 

[Soundguy]

it's just a wire connection point.. you cam make just about anything that has studs for wire commections, that is insulated from chassis work...

jbweld, should be quite non conductive according to it's packaging.. I've used it to make a coil blank for a ford front mount distribuitor, and it was fine around both primary and secondary voltages found in those low energy distribs..

 

[8NLUGNUT]

Well we finally got the 641 out to the ranch to give it a test drive. Bad news.

We had to top the hydraulic fluid to get the lift to come up.

I ended up putting 4 gallons in.

After a few minutes the new oil poured out of the weep hole, at least 2 gallons and then the lift quit working.

Actually the lift came up slowly with a disk on it then finally froze in he half way position not going up or down.

This makes me think I have two separate problems. A bad leak between the hydraulic and transmission area.

And a lift that will need some kind of service.

What say you guys?

Very frustrating today.

 

[Soundguy]

hyds sump is seperate from tranny.

hyds hold about 2g normally.. but can hold 3.

i don't think you could get 4 in there unless it was pouring out the fill hole?

if your hyds sucks dry and overfills the trans, you have a perferation in one of the lines that run thru the trans base to the hyds section. once the trans overfills, the weak input shaft seal laks, and then oil comes out the weep hole in the bottom.

now... did you actually put oil in the hyds section.. or did you just way overfill the tranny?

different fills for trans, hyds and diffy...???

 

[8NLUGNUT]

It was in the 90's and we were tired. That's my excuse.

Well we must have way over filled it!!!!

Yes to in the hydraulic section.

What ever amount we put in it made it work for a while.

I'll check the IT for the lines going through the tranny.

If it's perforated would that mean rusted through?

Something that can be repaired without splitting the tractor?

 

[Soundguy]

it's a bit of a bear.. but yeah.. generally you pull the plumbing off, drain the sump.. swab the perfed tube well.. usually the pressure tube.. swab it alot with solvent to get it squaky clean.. usually has a pinhole in it.. or 3.. then you get something like 10mm tubing.. coat it with an epoxy fily.. liberally coat it.. then push it in flush and let it set up... 90% of the time that gets it.

otherwise you have to snatch it out and put a new tube in.. and it's a stepped tube. finding them is a bit scarce.

lets determine that is your issue first.

the hyds has a dipstick.. the trans has a level plug.

if it is sucking the hyds dry and overfilling the trans.. it's almost assuredly the pressure tube perfed...

 

[8NLUGNUT]

Man I'm gonna have to really study. That maybe above my skill level. Let's see.

The pressure feed line has a hole in it where it passes through the tranny. As the pump sends the fluid back to the lift the fluid escapes out the pin hole leak into the tranny thus over filling the tranny and running out the weep hole.

Is that right?

it's a bit of a bear.. but yeah.. generally you pull the plumbing off, drain the sump.. swab the perfed tube well.. usually the pressure tube.. swab it alot with solvent to get it squaky clean.. usually has a pinhole in it.. or 3.. then you get something like 10mm tubing.. coat it with an epoxy fily.. liberally coat it.. then push it in flush and let it set up... 90% of the time that gets it.

otherwise you have to snatch it out and put a new tube in.. and it's a stepped tube. finding them is a bit scarce.

lets determine that is your issue first.

the hyds has a dipstick.. the trans has a level plug.

if it is sucking the hyds dry and overfilling the trans.. it's almost assuredly the pressure tube perfed...

 

[Soundguy]

yup...

 

[8NLUGNUT]

ouch

 

[8NLUGNUT]

Update on an old thread.

We finally had three tractor split the line repaired and put a new ring on the lift. Works great and it nice addition to the fleet.