Ford 917L Special Flail Mower

[arto98607]

.......................snip..................... The cut is pretty good but I think could be better. Or at least it seems so the way people rave about these things!

I'll replace blades if not too costly but if it gets up there I'll save the cost for a new 5 foot flail mower.
I ran this one into 3 foot grass and it didn't bog at all. Cut left something to be desired but the grass is wet.
Cut depth set at 2 1/4 inches.

The cut looks OK for a field or yard in the first photo, but if you are cutting 3 foot tall wet grass (hay ??) you probably need to slow down the ground speed, or do another quick run day or two later once the grass has dried.

The cut finish should look like something in-between finish mower and brush hog I think.

 

[wirlybird]

Yea, getting used to this thing. Going to pull all the blades and see about turning and sharpening to get the best edge. Also looking for new blades.
The taller grass in the picture wasn't "wet" like it just rained but I called it wet since it is just rich, lush green and has not had any real hot, sunny days to dry it.
Anyway wasn't going real fast on that one but thought it might do a little better.
At this point everything seems to be working but a good set of blades will help a lot.

 

[ArlyA]

I agree that its OK to have spare blades around but like others have mentioned, changing them is a pain in the %$@(! I'd sharpen them in place.

Update! I posted this in the wrong thread. Sorry!

 

[wirlybird]

Since a lot of the blades have probably not been run on the reverse side I'll have to take them off anyways.
Also some are bent.
It's going to be laborious but I also intend on weighing the blades since a few I saw may not be original. Try to make sure to maintain a balance.
This one has 80 blades so it's going to take a while but I think it is needed for a first time out to get it to a "know" quantity.
The unit is pretty easy to flip on its back to working on it shouldn't be too bad!!

 

[tennmogger]

Do you run your flail at full 540 rpm?

 

[wirlybird]

Do you run your flail at full 540 rpm?

I did for these test runs. I followed the instructions in the manual for engaging the PTO and operating the flail. Still learning on these since I've never used one before.

 

[wirlybird]

If I remember right the 50" model does not have a spring loaded belt idler pulley like 60" model has.
The operator's manual will clarify that and explain how to adjust the belt tension.

I see you used the MH-386 to replace the stock ones. Flailmaster has confirmed this. You had to drill them to 3/8 inch?
When looking at the specs here is what they list. They have a good price on them.
MH-386 Fine-Cut Blade (102086/02988196)
Pin Mounted
.087” Thick
1 1/4” Wide
4.7” Tall
3/8” Mtg. Hole.

 

[wirlybird]

Question on bolts for the flails.
The ford manual says it uses "special" bolts and that of the shelf bolts won't work.
Anyone have any info on this? What would be special? Is it hardened? Seems to be an 1 1/4 X 3/8 bolt with flanged lock nut.

Thanks for any info.

 

[wirlybird]

So I now see what is "special" about the bolt that holds the flail on. It has a longer shoulder and is impossible to find unless you want to pay $7 per bolt for a specialty shoulder bolt.

Any reason a Clevis pin wouldn't' work fine for this application?

 

[DaveMueller]

So I now see what is "special" about the bolt that holds the flail on. It has a longer shoulder and is impossible to find unless you want to pay $7 per bolt for a specialty shoulder bolt.

Any reason a Clevis pin wouldn't' work fine for this application?

I don't see why not, a lot of flail blades are held on with pins. I figured out the shoulder thing a while ago and gave up. You can probably buy regular bolts just a little longer and cut them down, or not worry about it. Extra length won't hurt operation since they'll all be the same to keep balance. I think 1-1/2" bolts have a long enough shoulder. IIRC the nuts are captive (prevailing torque) types.