Found the weakest link on Boomer Axles

[hazmat]

If you want to glue it together, try this

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.fusor.com/>fusor</A>

I used it at my last job building ambulances when welding would distort sheet metal . "glued" two pieces of 3" x .25" alum channel together. Put it in bearing press. Aluminum broke before glue let go.

I wouldn't use it as a permanent fix, but it should get you on the trailer. I'm not familiar with JB weld, but it may be the same type of stuff.

Fusor should be available at an auto body store.

 

[Soundguy]

Chances are one of the guys there has a portable welder in their truck. For 20 bucks you might ask them to swing by your place ( only 4 miles? ) and tack it on for you.. probably wouldnt be but a minute of welding, etc.

An idea...

Soundguy

<font color=blue>"I don't know any friends who weld either. There is a metal fabrication shop in town (make dump truck beds) but wouldn't want to drag the unit 4 miles to them."

 

[Soundguy]

That jb weld is a mixed epoxy. Its strength comes from forming it around a broken piece of material, not a surface area to surface area adhesion as with a glue.

You will have rolling stress, and uneven loading, and shock stress, possibly torsion.If you were patching a hole in a leaking freezeplug, I'd say go ahead, but in my opinion, the jbweld won't even hold the static weight of that axle sitting there, let alone loading it.
It's your tractor and health... but I would advise against it...

Soundguy

 

[bnixon]

An A-Frame is like a heavy duty swingset frame. Usually made of large heavy wall pipe or iron. It will span far enough to get a trailer under it.

 

[bnixon]

Sorry for the crude sketch. I have attached a different one that explaines why it is called an A-Frame. Look at the end pieces.

Hope it helps.

 

[DVerbarg]

Thanks for the explanation. I've seen one before at automotive junkyards. It had automotive wheels on it to allow it to roll more easily over the "rough" terrain.

Now you've got me thinking. Won't be able to make one of these A frames easily but am wondering if I can get my Dad to bring his MF275 back and use the boom pole on it to lift my front end. Getting to the trailer wouldn't be tough but it might take a few "bites" to get on the trailer. Hmmm /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif/w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif

 

[Soundguy]

Keep in mind that the 3pt. capacity of the mf 275 is going to diminish drastically as the length of the boom increases. ( Most tractors 3pt. weight calculations are based on loads around 24" rear of the tractor. A 6' 'bar' is going to be a huge mechanical advantage ( against the mf275 )when hooked to the front end of your tractor.

Idea here. Do you have a small utility trailer that you could lay your loader on and use it as a front axle, and then drive the whole mess up on the flatbed? The front tounge of the utility trailer will probably be able to be guided by hand as long as you go slow, and choose your 'attatchment' point over the axle so that the length of the utility trailer will give you some fulcrum advantage, etc

Also, a crude skid could be constructed with 2x4's and have a 'cradle' of rhte axle to sit in... may work enough to trailer it.
( I've seen the above setup used to get a boat trailer off the interstate, after a wheel came off at the hub. A quick and dirty skid made the .10 mile trip to the exit... )

Remember to bevel the leading edge of the skid so that it doesn't catch as much on the ground.

Soundguy

<font color=blue>""Now you've got me thinking. Won't be able to make one of these A frames easily but am wondering if I can get my Dad to bring his MF275 back and use the boom pole on it to lift my front end. Getting to the trailer wouldn't be tough but it might take a few "bites" to get on the trailer. Hmmm ""

 

[bgott]

Load it on the trailer with the FEL. From the looks of that break that spindle just might be cast iron. You could weld it on with nickel rod but I don't think many people carry that on their truck. You could braze it on with a torch but you'd have to take it apart and lay it flat, brazing isn't designed for vertical up welding. I've moved equipment around with the loader, it's not to bad once you get a rhythm going. Try it in neutral and let the loader pull the tractor.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Got a cordless drill? Drill a 1/2 inch (or smaller) hole directly into the axle at the dimple showing in your picture. Run a tap in to create threads or use a "Heli-coil" like they use for spark plug holes that are stripped. Reattach the hub by running a bolt through a short piece of bar stock or angle iron (drill a hole through the stock for the bolt) to clamp the hub in place. The bolt won't be supporting much weight if you can pull the hub tight to the axle. Keep your bucket low for support and drive carefully.

 

[Soundguy]

Not a bad idea.. since the axle is already trashed. Since it looks like a conical break, if ( as you point out ) he can snug it good and replace the damaged area in the same orientation it came off, it might work better than anything else mentioned so far.

If he goes at it carefully, and has the loader low to act as a safety catch.. might just do the job.

Soundguy