Fuel Pump Replacement

[sallyb]

Brother had taken off view plate 4 bolts with copper washers, looked inside with camera probe he saw , he thinks 3 threaded holes, would like to know thread size? I took pictures with my phone, not very good, but I see 1 and felt 3. Brother has marked TDC and gears. Will email this to you, but thought I would share with forum. Thank you so much, Sally

 

[thepumpguysc]

How about taking a pic of the pump so we know wth we’re working on..

 

[sallyb]

Sorry didn’t think of that lol. Will do.

 

[Zork]

Brother had taken off view plate 4 bolts with copper washers, looked inside with camera probe he saw , he thinks 3 threaded holes, would like to know thread size? I took pictures with my phone, not very good, but I see 1 and felt 3. Brother has marked TDC and gears. Will email this to you, but thought I would share with forum. Thank you so much, Sally

That looks like the opening to the IP gear. The yellow painted lines are matched up and I would presume would indicate the pump is properly timed with the engine. Im not sure about your white mark.

 

[sallyb]

These. Are pictures I took of pump . So yes it has 3 threaded holes to use puller can someone tell me where to find what size these threads are so a puller can be used.

 

[sallyb]

The white is used to mark cables . This . As you see pump is still on
tractor. Would we need to take off radiator and the item with Item with view plate? I guess what I need is how to remove pump. Thank you

 

[Zork]

On second view, the white paint looks like your factory timing mark. There appears to be a mark or groove under the paint.
I would turn the engine further to see if there is a mate to this mark, if so, use the white mark. Did you add the yellow paint?
Have you tried to remove the nut that holds the IP gear? A photo you posted shows that nut still on the IP shaft, but the gear is set back-so the IP mount must be loose.
You may be able to slide the IP out and the gear off just by removing that shaft nut.

 

[Zork]

You need to get a few metric bolt sizes and threads to find out what pitch those holes are. Hopefully that gear comes off easily once you remove the mounting nut. If nothing else, get some coat hangers or rods in those holes so the gear doesn't drop down where you might not reach it. And watch for the IP shaft key, you won't want to loose that.

 

[Zork]

There appears to be two threaded holes on that gear. A general metric sized puller set or steering wheel puller from HF/Advance/AutoZone should include those bolt sizes and if the gear is loose, you might not have to remove the shroud/radiator as the puller body without the center stud will just hold and align the gear while the IP is out.

 

[Zork]

Here you go

https://www.harborfreight.com/bolt-type-wheel-puller-set-62620.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12144811130&campaignid=12144811130&utm_content=117789278798&adsetid=117789278798&product=62620&store=3055&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpNuyBhCuARIsANJqL9PmHaK6zpcig6EV0IM95dpQqqcfkGJKyoDWFoImmvDabdMj-rzY7X4aAlrREALw_wcB

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/harmonic-balancer-puller/p/oemtools-crankshaft-damper-harmonic-balancer-pulley-and-gear-puller/555524_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:19489353547&&CATARGETID=120054150001289921&CADevice=m&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpNuyBhCuARIsANJqL9MAWHPxhlXZ7g4_o0HG_zq5hrbuenmla50jF-rxn7ldyQNGQ6jw8-gaAuEUEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds