garage door headroom challenge for lean-to

[lennyzx11]

Here’s some ideas to throw in the discussion.

Start the new roof on top of the old one. It’s a common practice with laying the ledger board across the roof and flashing/ sealing the old to new transition.
No need to remove roofing. That gives you a little more pitch.

I bought an opener that attached to the end of door axle (liftmaster 8500) rather than hung down in the middle like the norm.

Prior to the liftmaster purchase, I used for a few years an ordinary opener but moved it all the way to one side close to the track rather than pulling from the center. It worked just fine.

 

[Diggin It]

I bought an opener that attached to the end of door axle (liftmaster 8500) rather than hung down in the middle like the norm.

It's not the opener that takes up the headroom, it's the roll-up mechanism and side rails/tracks

A single swing door with a gate opener might be OK, but set for 'open out' they encroach on the side space by several inches.

 

[randy41]

modify part of the current barn to turn it into a garage. add the lean-to to make up for the lost space in the barn.

 

[radioman]

eddie already said it when i read this post this morning. abandon the lean to. instead of extending the roofline- just drop down a foot and add on roof so you not touching the original roof and build out. it might cost you a day or two to do the gable instead of lean to but it wont disrupt anything and solve door issues.

 

[ray66v]

Explain more!

https://www.amishshedsfredericksburg.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/3-4.jpg

The gable can be any size to allow for your door. And you will have the ability to maintain the roof slope you need.

You can also extend the gable off the roof, making any size porch area over the entryway.



A shorter extension over an overhead door can add a very nice look, if you are interested in aesthetics.

 

[EddieWalker]

I am looking to add an enclosed lean-to onto an eave wall of my barn to park a car in. In order to make this project "sane" and keep it to a short timeline with minimal disruption to the main barn, I want to have the new lean-to tuck under an existing eave and not disrupt the current roof or make my framing complicated. I have 10' of clearance under the eave.

View attachment 612537

I think I misunderstood when I first read your post. The picture is of your barn with a lean-to that you have already added to your barn? This is not where you want to put the garage door and park your car.

You want to build another lean-to off of the existing garage to the left of the new lean-to, coming out forward from the barn?

You want the roof of the new lean-to to tuck under the existing overhang of your barn and come forward?

The wall is ten feet tall.


If I now understand what it is that you are wanting to do, my suggestion is still to abandon the lean-to idea and frame your walls the same height as the existing bar so you can have a full sized garage door. Then to keep your framing simple, run your roof from the peak of your existing barn, down to the farthest wall in one continuous slope. Technically you don't have to remove much of your existing roof or shingles, just enough to attach your rafters. Then deck the rafters and install new shingles on the new roof.

 

[s219]

Ok,I got it. You actually said that in original post but I had a brain fart. I see lots of 30'-40' rv shelters with 1:12 and less shed that must be working. There's no snow here but I don't figure 3:12 would handle much snow either. Will guttering present roof and tucking new 1:12 shed underneath buy enough headroom ?

I already have gutters on the main barn, so that part is solved, but I am wary of a 1:12 slope because of two factors -- one would be pine needles building up and slowing/blocking rain runoff, and the second would be water from melting snow. Melting snow is a real threat on a low pitch roof, and once the water finds a path past a seam in the roof material, it will leak for days, especially with freeze/thaw cycles which are super common in my area. To really trust a 1:12 pitch, I'd probably need to go with a membrane roof and then it's $$$. There are some self-adhesve asphalt roll roofing products that are more moderate in price but I'm not sold on those yet.

 

[/pine]

Bifold is an interesting idea -- I will look into that. I could probably build doors myself but I wonder about rigging up an automatic opener. Would take some sort of linear actuator on the top I imagine. Could also maybe do it with cables and springs.

FWIW... About 18 seconds into the video it shows the open/close mechanism:

Four-Fold Door System - See Them In Action! - YouTube

 

[s219]

To answer Eddie's and other questions, here's a sketch that I should have uploaded to begin with:

That shows what I was hoping to do but what I'm up against for overhead clearance.

It seems that if I can do a bi-fold door that opens to the outside, and power it, that would take care of the issue. I found some solutions rigged up using standard garage door chain openers (including a thread here on TBN) that look doable.

For that matter, two standard out-swinging doors would work to, if I can power those, and I think that's also doable by rigging a custom setup using a standard opener. I suspect gate openers would work for that too.

I would consider making a whole new shed roof that takes off from the main barn roof, higher up, but that will take a bit more work than going under the eaves. I guess I need to factor in time/cost taken for custom doors and openers versus using standard garage door.

Thanks for all the suggestions, you guys are great as usual!

 

[EddieWalker]