Gate Post Removal

[BobRip]

I had little luck removing my own stump, so I took a shot at removing a neighbors gate post. The post was sunk about 3 feet into the ground and had about 300 to 400 pounds of concrete on it. The neighbor had wiggled it with his small SUV but could not get it out. I first thought about using the trencher, but it is in the loft and a little hard to get to. I took the 4 in 1 bucket, lowered it over the top of the post and clamped down. I moved it back and forth and lifted and wiggled from several directions. It came up some, so we dropped an old piece of concrete in the hole to keep it from falling back in. Then I tried pulling it from the back of my 422. It did not go far. I then wrapped the strap around the post and the bucket and lifted and pulled at the same time. The neighbor used a digging bar (not shown in the pictures) to pry some and the post came out. I then dragged it about 600 feet to the burn pile. See attachments.

Bob Rip

 

[BobRip]

The post supported a gate about 15 feet long.

Bob Rip

 

[BobRip]

The camera came out a little late. The pictures were taken by the neighbors wife.

Bob Rip

 

[BobRip]

Another shot

Bob Rip

 

[BobRip]

Hauling it away.

Bob Rip

 

[MossRoad]

Ooooo, that's a big one! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I had some concrete pieces like that at our children's school. I used the forks by jamming them into the ground under them and prying up all around. Bent the forks a bit, but got it out. However, I did not have a 2' post at the bottom of my pieces. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[FOURTEEN]

<font color="red"> Amazing what you can accomplish when you have a good head on your shoulders, and a good machine under your butt!! </font>

 

[davesisk]

Man, I'd be careful getting the rear end that far off the ground! You don't want to end up on your side. Plus the most weight (and thus lifting force) would be with the rear end lower and as far from the front tires as possible. Just my inflation-adjust $0.02. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[BobRip]

I agree. In retrospec it looks a little dangerous. It the strap had broken the rear end would fall 2 feet and maybe very suddenly.

Bob Rip

 

[KentT]

On that note... has anyone loaded the tires (especially the rears) on their PT to add weight and improve traction? I've seen one post of weights added to the rear hitch point, but loading the tires puts the weight on the ground, with a lower center of gravity for holding them on a slope, and doesn't add stress to bearings, etc.

Or, is there a concern about increasing the strain on the wheel motors to overcome the intertia of added weight in the wheel/tire combo...

 

[BobRip]

Clint Blake has filled his rear tires with I think antifreeze/water mix. He seems very pleased.

I have two weights on the hitch pin each is 55 pounds. Most of the time I only have one in place. It makes the machine move much better when the bucket is loaded, since the rear wheels will spin when they are lightly loaded.

Bob Rip

 

[catsco]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( On that note... has anyone loaded the tires (especially the rears) on their PT to add weight and improve traction? )</font>

I had considered adding wheel weights or loading tires on the rear as they seem to spend a bit of time off the ground!

BUT, I think the biggest possibility of damage would be to the link and bosses of the bearings at the middle joint.

You could add weight, reinforce those joints, weld stiffeners on the lift arms, etc., but then you'd have the next higher model.

HOWEVER, just for traction if you're careful not to lift more than you would without the extra weight, loaded tires would probably really help.

I sometimes get quite a bit of wheelspin (using bar tires) when backing up fairly steep grades.

The loaded tires wouldn't add strain to the bearings as they are not added weight to the parts (half the tractor) that is carried by the bearings. Inertia and additional weight moved would have virtually no effect other than, other things being equal, you could go down hills faster!

Mark H.

 

[jol1269]

not only that but the added weight could possible bend the pivot point on the loader arms . if there is no pt pucker then something has to give but that would take away the possibility of rewelding in a new pivot linkage on the lloader arms . but hey just my opinion. i think ill stick with the weight pt intended as im not that big on fixing what isnt broke . lol .

 

[FOURTEEN]

<font color="blue"> The loaded tires wouldn't add strain to the bearings </font>


<font color="red"> Air is compressible. Liquid is not. The soft, low pressure tires are the only 'suspension' the PT has. Filling those tires with liquid makes them nearly inflexible, and, therefore, all the shocks and bumps are transmitted directly to the bearings!!

If you want to add weight to the rear, at the risk of over lifting, go ahead, but keep those tires soft (Front = 11#, Rear = 7#) to absorb the bumps!!</font>

/forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[Marks481]

The turf tires I have specify 10# max inflation pressure (not that I think 11# is going to cause any problems)

What is the reasoning behind the 11#/7# inflation of the tires?

 

[FOURTEEN]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The turf tires I have specify 10# max inflation pressure (not that I think 11# is going to cause any problems)

<font color="red"> I developed these pressures experimentally for my PT-425 with Bar Tires. The Bar Tires have a max inflation pressure of 20#. </font>



What is the reasoning behind the 11#/7# inflation of the tires? )</font>

<font color="red"> The 11# Front is soft enough to allow full width bar contact with the ground, and provide a soft ride for the PT and me, but are hard enough to carry a full load without possible bruising or rim damage. Note the front tire shape with this 'full load' !!

The 7# Rear provides full width bar contact with the ground, and a soft ride.

Since the Turf and Bar Tires are the same size similar pressures should work well. 10#/7# should provide similar performance with the Turf Tires.

Being soft and flexible, these tires somewhat 'wrap around' obstructions such as logs or rocks. Since they provide a larger softer footprint, they tend to damage tender surfaces much less.
</font>

 

[Egon]

Surprizing how fast the rear end will lift. My little tractor spends much of it's time in the same type of position when trying to dig out stumps or pick up logs/rocks that are a tad on the heavy side.

My turf tires have about 25 PSI. Steers easier and less prone to punctures.
Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[FOURTEEN]

<font color="blue"> (My turf tires have about 25 PSI. Steers easier and less prone to punctures.
Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )
</font>

<font color="red"> If it is a PT-425, with 25# it also rides harder, is more likely to damage the wheel motor bearings, provides less traction, is more likely to damage tender ground surfaces, exceeds the tire manufacturer's maximum pressure rating, and is more likely to bruise or blowout!! Otherwise, it sounds like a fine idea!! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif


PS: The 11/7 recommendation is for the Bar Tires on a PT-425. Other tractors will obviously require other pressures!!

</font>

 

[ClintBlake]

Three years ago I put 2gal antifreeze with 3gal water in my back tires to keep the back end down when moving my #7700 gross trailer. There is still air in the tire so the tire still flexes to soften the ride. I was so pleased with this in the back that I later did the same thing to the front which helps when pushing snow with the blade. Some (including PT) didn't like the idea, but it made more sense to me than adding weight to the frame because the added weight is on the tire not the axle. I wouldn't even consider going back to just air and may even try to add more in the future.

It is really easy to do, just take the valve off one of the portable air tanks, fill it with your water/antifreeze mixture, put the valve back in and pump it up with your air compressor. Let the air out of the tire and fill it from the tank with the valve down.

 

[BobRip]

I feel that the weight on the rear (110 pounds) has made the PT422 feel like a different and much better machine. I don't see how adding 110 pounds on the rear is much worse that carrying 800 pounds on the front.

Bob Rip