GC1705 loosing it's prime.

[atsah]

Okay, I will look at that connector again to be sure it looks okay. I think it was an electrical issue whether it was the connection or sending low battery power to it I don't know but it works since I unplugged it and installed a new battery. I'm going to leave it alone. The real test was this morning, 48F, 7 seconds on the glow plugs fired right up.

Thank you guys for all of your help.

Mark

 

[atsah]

Well I'm back to square one.. LOL

Acted up on me a few times today, I decided to remove the solenoid, there was some oil in the housing on the pump, the shaft looked fine, moved in and out freely, every time I pushed the plunger to move the shaft back out, there was oil on the shaft. I assume there is an O-ring in the solenoid that stops the oil from coming out with the shaft. I did look at the relay and all looks fine, I inspected the electrical connection and it looked fine. I do hear the relay click with the key and I hear the solenoid 5 seconds after I turn the tractor off click so I'm ruling out the relay.

I am safe to say I need a new solenoid and gasket?

Pumpguy, is it normal to have a little oil on the pump and shaft where the solenoid is mounted?

For $180 I'm thinking about taking the solenoid apart to see if I can fix it if the oil in there is normal.

Why is there a gasket between the solenoid and the pump? Is there suction?

 

[DMW]

atsah, do you and your friend both have GC1705s? How about switching out the solenoids and see if the problem moves to your tractor?

 

[atsah]

atsah, do you and your friend both have GC1705s? How about switching out the solenoids and see if the problem moves to your tractor?

It's an idea but I hate to mess with mine.. LOL I just went out and put my hand on the solenoid and turned the key on and off and I could feel it working. I assume the plunger inside the rubber boot isn't actually connected to the shaft that goes in and out because it never moved.

 

[atsah]

What is this small drain on the boot for? Is there an electrical timer of sorts that controls iner winding?

 

[atsah]

Took the fuel cap apart for the heck of it, I have a mangled seal in there.


I don't know, if the solenoid isn't supposed to have any oil on the shaft when you push it in and out I guess I'll buy a new one, if it's normal I am at a loss as what is causing it to not get fuel to the injectors right away.

I will completely remove the solenoid and see if it starts right away, if it doesn't I guess the rack is getting stuck. If I need the pump looked at pumpguy, is it something you would do?

 

[thepumpguysc]

Yes..
This time of year, it seems like I have 1 weekly..
I'll send you a PM..

 

[atsah]

Just to bring anyone that was interested in my outcome up to speed. I removed the solenoid and turned the switch on and off and it worked as it should. I moved the rack inside the injection pump per the pumpguy and it moved smoothly. Still working on it, I have an idea that the electric fuel may be the issue, it doesn't sound like mine, it's kind of weak and inconsistent, I pulled the inlet hose to the injection pump and ran the fuel pump, it wasn't a steady flow and I don't know if that's right or not but I'm going to do the same on mine and check it but the pump doesn't sound right to me.

 

[thepumpguysc]

The lift pump must supply the inj. pump w/ a steady flow of around 6-10 psi..
Have you replaced the inlet gaskets? Bleed screw gasket? You've lossened & tightened them a lot..
Are you checking for leaks after your tests?? I use Brake kleener to wash down my area & help the product disipate w/ compressed air..
Have you pressurized the fuel tank & looked for leaks everywhere?? all the way to the injection pump..
NOT MUCH AIR PRESSURE.. you don't wanna blow up your fuel tank..
You've done darn near all the test I would have done in diagnosing that system..
Its about time to yank out the injectors.. LEAKING down injectors will give you those symptoms..
I would replace the electr. lift pump 1st..

 

[atsah]

The lift pump must supply the inj. pump w/ a steady flow of around 6-10 psi..
Have you replaced the inlet gaskets? Bleed screw gasket? You've lossened & tightened them a lot..
Are you checking for leaks after your tests?? I use Brake kleener to wash down my area & help the product disipate w/ compressed air..
Have you pressurized the fuel tank & looked for leaks everywhere?? all the way to the injection pump..
NOT MUCH AIR PRESSURE.. you don't wanna blow up your fuel tank..
You've done darn near all the test I would have done in diagnosing that system..
Its about time to yank out the injectors.. LEAKING down injectors will give you those symptoms..
I would replace the electr. lift pump 1st..

I'm with you on this.. Leaking down injectors or a weak electric fuel pump are the next two things to look at. I haven't taken gaskets off, I have only replaced the injector inlet bolt on the pump because it had a crack in the head of it, when I did I replaced the two copper washers along with it. I'll pull the deck panel off and see if I can see anything obvious wrong with it and listen to it work, I will also turn the key on and listen while I turn the on/off valve on the fuel filter housing to make sure that ball valve is working properly and has no restriction.