GC2300 Issues

   / GC2300 Issues #11  
I just discovered that I'm having the same problem with my 2300 exhaust. May have already damaged the headlights too. Very disappointing; mine is a 2006 model, I think, with about 400hrs-first real problem so far but major in my book given the collateral damage. I'm going to call my dealer tomorrow and see if anyone else has had issues and see if they are willing to repair since this appears to be a design flaw.
 
   / GC2300 Issues #12  
You have reopened a 3 year old thread.

I don't recall any recent posts concerning this problem.

There were some people who had problems with welds on the muffler. However, most have not. This would seem to suggest a manufacturing defect, not a design flaw.
 
   / GC2300 Issues #13  
Well he is not the only one I have had same problem but found it in time to
have the weld redone.
 
   / GC2300 Issues #14  
Well he is not the only one I have had same problem but found it in time to
have the weld redone.

Who said he is the only one? :confused:
 
   / GC2300 Issues #15  
While on one hand my GC2300 has been a real work horse (moving tons and tons of wood, dirt, stones, snow, and brush), there has been one nuisance problem after another.

-- The power steering failed. Turned out to be some defective part that Massey replaced on their dime.
-- The joystick rod snapped off. $26 for basically a threaded steel rod.
-- The FEL joystick control box is leaking fluid
-- The pipe on the muffler snapped off.
-- The bushings on the steering column are shot resulting in sloppy steering.
-- The plastic edging on the seat is coming off
-- The seat safety interlock is problematic
-- The one front tire is forever leaking (tire and valve stem replaced--must be the rim)
-- and just today, there is a 6" or so piece of rubber hose that must be part of the hydraulic return line that split. I lost all power and fluid is all over the ground.

Some of these problems are just bad engineering or faulty parts.

My understanding is that this is basically an Iseki tractor and MF and Kubota put their own body and FEL on it to make it their own.
 
   / GC2300 Issues #16  
vicos said:
My understanding is that this is basically an Iseki tractor and MF and Kubota put their own body and FEL on it to make it their own.

Kubota builds their own. How old and how many hours??
 
   / GC2300 Issues #18  
I got my 2300 from a friend with about 730 hours on it. It's an 04 and it's had the steering bushing problem which I took out and hard bolted, the seat welds rusted away, I had that fixed, the muffler exhaust side is cracked and the radiator hose has a near hole in it from the hood. I just replaced the ignition switch today, and I think I replaced the wrong thing. My heater plug is bad I think. 65 bucks wasted on the ignition, plus a 46 mile drive, one way to get it. I usually check things out several different ways before I go and pick up a part, unless I'm certain what it is. I just wasn't thinking on this one...

Anyone got any ideas for this problem? The glow plugs aren't heating up, the switch is definitely NOT the problem, and it's got a good battery and starter. How do I test the heater plug for voltage? Is there only one heater plug or three? IS the heater plug the same as glow plug? The instrument panel has a light for the glow plug heating, but it doesn't light when I turn the switch to heat, but the light does light up when I switch it to the start side and the fuel pump activates. I'm gonna try to figure out the heater plug and possibly replace it/them. any help would be greatly appreciated.

PJ
 
   / GC2300 Issues #19  
pl1338- I don't know how familiar you are with engines, so if I sound a little pedantic, my apologies!

Yes, there are three, and "glow plug" and "heater plug" mean the same thing. If you look in the photo, you can clearly see the glow plug closest to the front of the tractor, along with the flat metal bus bar connecting all three and the 12V feed wire (black with a yellow tracer on mine) connected to the center plug. These are all connected with the small nuts & lockwashers.

Standard test procedure would be to first check for 12V on the power lead when the glow plugs are (supposed to be) activated. Disconnect the center power lead, and hook that up to one lead of a voltmeter; the other voltmeter lead is connected to a ground somewhere. When the switch is turned to the glow position, you should read full battery voltage on the meter. (Be careful not to short the power lead to ground when the switch is on glow!)

Next step would be to check each plug: remove the metal bus bar, and check each plug with an ohmeter --resistance-- from the top of the plug, where the bus bar connects, to ground. The meter should read a very low resistance (almost a short). If the needle doesn't move at all, chances are the plug is burned out.

My 2310 is an '07 model so it might be different than yours, but according to my wiring diagram, there aren't any fuses or relays in the glow circuit, only the ignition switch. The plugs are activated both during "glow" position as well as "start" position on my ignition switch, but I do not have an indicator light-- wish I did!

Hope this helps. WBB in NH
 

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