Generators - Backfeeding - 120V

   / Generators - Backfeeding - 120V #101  
When I wired in my generator sub panel last year I transferred all the circuits I thought I would need. If all the amps are added they exceed by quite a bit the amps my 7500 watt generator will put out. But I have never loaded up the circuits to their breaker rating. I am thinking about buying a 4000 watt generator. My only worry is starting the well if the fridge and freezer are also starting. I think I can get some sort of load sensing device that will prevent the well from starting if the load is too high. Though it may be possible to obviate using this device by using capacitors. The well motor is already a capacitor start motor, or maybe the cap is always in circuit. But I think it's a cap start. Anyway, I remember reading about a scheme used in industrial settings for starting motors when other motors were starting and there was a consequent voltage drop. Capacitors were used as well as relays. I think. It was really a kind of brute force setup the sort of which was common in the mid twentieth century. if anybody reading this has any info I would be happy if they posted it.
Thanks,
Eric
 
   / Generators - Backfeeding - 120V #102  
When I wired in my generator sub panel last year I transferred all the circuits I thought I would need. If all the amps are added they exceed by quite a bit the amps my 7500 watt generator will put out. But I have never loaded up the circuits to their breaker rating. I am thinking about buying a 4000 watt generator. My only worry is starting the well if the fridge and freezer are also starting. I think I can get some sort of load sensing device that will prevent the well from starting if the load is too high. Though it may be possible to obviate using this device by using capacitors. The well motor is already a capacitor start motor, or maybe the cap is always in circuit. But I think it's a cap start. Anyway, I remember reading about a scheme used in industrial settings for starting motors when other motors were starting and there was a consequent voltage drop. Capacitors were used as well as relays. I think. It was really a kind of brute force setup the sort of which was common in the mid twentieth century. if anybody reading this has any info I would be happy if they posted it.
Thanks,
Eric
your looking for this

 
   / Generators - Backfeeding - 120V #104  
Those SMM Modules only work on 240 circuits. I doubt the 4000 watt gen has 240 output
 
   / Generators - Backfeeding - 120V #105  
Those SMM Modules only work on 240 circuits. I doubt the 4000 watt gen has 240 output
I have a 3500 watt Champion that has selectable 120V/240V output (puts out 3500W on either 120V or 240V).
Growing up we had an ancient red Tecumseh powered generator that also had 120/240V outputs.

Aaron Z
 
   / Generators - Backfeeding - 120V #106  
Good to know, ive never seen 240 outlets below 5000 watt units. Seems kind of useless as it wouldnt even put out 15 amps
 
   / Generators - Backfeeding - 120V #107  
Good to know, ive never seen 240 outlets below 5000 watt units. Seems kind of useless as it wouldnt even put out 15 amps
Our 26 year old Coleman generator is 4200W and has 120/240. Yes, it's 15 amps. That's plenty for our needs. The only 240V items are the air conditioner (which we don't use in power outages) and the well. Everything else is 120v. I manage the loads of the freezer and fridges manually. Most of the house lighting is LED bulbs, so we can run any lighting we might want to when running any of the appliances. We have a wood burning stove, so furnace isn't needed either. We'll be getting a new TV soon, so I'll probably get a UPS/Power conditioner in-line with that.

But in all reality, we get outages fairly often, but they are usually just a few seconds. Several minute long outages are 5-6 a year. Maybe 1 per year average where I'm tempted to fire up the generator, and usually it comes back on before I do.
 
   / Generators - Backfeeding - 120V #108  
Pull the plug to a high amperage 220v outlet, like to the dryer or range. Make a jumper plug to put a short across the powered lugs that are normally 220v.

Or, at a high amperage 220v breaker, remove the circuit wires and place a jumper wire across the terminals to feed the other leg. Size the jumper wire accordingly.
This is the best idea. If you forget about the plug, when the utility power is switched back, the breaker will trip with the dead short. Noise might surprise you.
 
   / Generators - Backfeeding - 120V #109  
I have installed generator panels in all the homes I have built. 320 amp service (no CT) with two 40 slot 200 amp panels. The flush mount generator panel is beside those two panels with 12 slots. Super easy to do during construction. I especially like the two watt meters built into the generator panels to see what my load is on either side of the 220 volts.
I also discovered along the line that when you are "charging" the refrigerator, with a frost free freezer, make sure the freezer is not starting the "defrost" mode when you put power to it for 30 minutes... :)
 
 
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