good chains, ropes, etc.

Bob_Trevithick · Dec 6, 2001

I'm looking for information on the best types of chain or rope to buy for various tasks. (I tried searching the Internet, but kept getting hits on bondage and discipline /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif)

If I understand the specs correctly, the 4300 I'm getting can pull about 8000 lbs with the drawbar. This would seem to suggest that I could conceivably pull out small stumps, heavy rocks, and so on. What is a good source of chains that could handle this kind of thing without risk of snapping and injuring someone?

I expect it's a trade-off; how heavy the chain has to be to handle a certain load. A bag of chains that weighs 500 lbs wouldn't be very handy. Are there any exceptionally strong brands out there?

I would guess that for pulling cars out of ditches, regular tow ropes with metal hooks on the ends would be best? Good source for these?

TIA!

Bob Trevithick

TerryinMD · Dec 6, 2001

Bob,

You can buy ready-made chains at Lowe's, Home Depot, TSC, Farm and Fleet, etc.

You can also buy the chain and hooks/clevis' at the same places. This way you can make up a chain to suit your needs.

Now, as far as the chain grading. There have been a few posts mentioning this on TBN. Best for you to search to find them. I would imagine that a TBN member could give you a short description on what to look for.

Terry

Anonymous Poster · Dec 6, 2001

...If I understand the specs correctly, the 4300 I'm getting can pull about 8000 lbs with the drawbar. This would seem to suggest that I could conceivably pull out small stumps...

Huh?

Bob where did the 8000 lb. tow figure come from...? Maybe on a flat surface, no inclines, and a "rolling friction"... but pulling out small stumps... how small... you're not gonna believe how strong most of those saplings are... /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif

I recently posted Required Chains in your tractor toolbox...... on the average these chains depending on grade are rated between 3900-6600 lbs. working load limit...

MossRoad · Dec 6, 2001

I, too, believe that that figure is for the maximum weight of a trailer or such on level ground. I get the impression that you are wanting to hook on to a 3-4 inch tree stump and try to drive away. If I tried that, I'd either spin the tires, skin the tree or get a chain in the back of the head. You might want to dig it out with a loader or look at renting a small excavator for a day. As far as unsticking vehicles or dragging logs out of the woods goes, you will need some chains or cables and all of the stores listed have great selections. I picked up a 150' piece of used 1/2 inch cable from a towing company for very little. It is great for hauling something out that you can't get close to.

 MossRoad

Bob_Trevithick · Dec 6, 2001

Huh?

Bob where did the 8000 lb. tow figure come from...?

Hi John,

Well, I'm embarrassed to admit that I can no longer find it. I believe it was on the old Deere web site, which I just discovered they have completely re-done.. minus some of the specs. Or maybe I just dreamed it? Nah, I'm sure I read it, and I'm sure it was from a Deere publication.

But I guess that's all moot. I will just have to see what it can do, and learn to work with it. I like the idea of nylon straps, if they can handle enough. Having a chain or cable break isn't something I'm anxious to experience.

Oh, and I jotted down the chains you noted in your link, and will keep those in mind this Saturday when I make my trip to a big farm equipment store near here. Thanks...

Bob Trevithick

HR_Mutt · Dec 6, 2001

Bob_Trevithick
Whoa!/w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif
You still planning on pulling stumps and rocks? With nylon?!?
Watch yer back/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif I'd reconsider using chains. Use the tow straps for vehicles, etc.
regards
Mutt

Bob_Trevithick · Dec 6, 2001

Hi MossRoad,

I get the impression that you are wanting to hook on to a 3-4 inch tree stump and try to drive away.

Well, yeah.. the idea had crossed my mind. /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif After a year on the little GT235, I figure now, with the 4300, I'll be able to rule the world. Or at least pull out some small stumps. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

I guess I will find out what I can and can't do. It will be hard to know what grade of chain to buy, not having a real sense of how much actual stress will be taken by them. Is this a case of buy the best you can afford?

Bob Trevithick

Bob_Trevithick · Dec 6, 2001

Hi Mutt,

You still planning on pulling stumps and rocks? With nylon?!?

Um, no, of course not! Not anymore, anyway. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

I thought I'd seen some discussion around these parts of doing just that... perhaps not nylon specifically, but reference was made to using straps. Bad idea, huh?

Boy, do I have a lot to learn!

Thanks, everyone, for the gentle guidance...

Bob Trevithick

AndyR · Dec 6, 2001

I've been real happy with 3/8" galvanized chain that I got at Home Depot. Have a slip hook on one end and a binding hook on the other. This ones about 10 feet long - fine for moving rocks as big as the L3710 can handle. Admittedly is not the lightest stuff - but I don't like chain breaks. For long pulls I would go with wire rope (make sure it has no kinks) for the kind of work you are mentioning. Make sure it is properly terminated - the right fittings can make all the difference. Also, buy a bunch of slings - at least 10,000 lb rated. Makes a big difference in the efficiency of your work.

Good Luck!

Andy in NH

DFB · Dec 6, 2001

Bob, nylon straps are handy (I keep one in both my truck and lil' womans' SUV) for those times you need just that little tug to get going again but they won't offer the abraision resistance of a chain when it comes down to something like dragging a log.

Chain comes in different grades and the higher the grade the stronger the chain is for a given size. If your interested here's a link to some rating and descriptions. http://www.lockpeople.com/TC_Main.htm

5/16" & 3/8 " Grade 40 High Test and Grade 70 transport chain are probably the most common types widely available. A slip or choker hook is handy when you want to pull tighter around something than a standard grab hook will allow. Get yourself a good sized screw or pin type clevis to attach to your drawbar too. Have fun shopping.

Hey btw, I gotta tell ya your sig reminds me of one of the locals around here. Ol' Wally and his JD.
(Especially the hat)/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

DFB

Bird · Dec 6, 2001

Bob, I've got several 3/8" chains (different lengths) so old I don't even know what grade they are, but I've never broken one. I also have a 1/2" cable that I made a choker out of. So, I've tied onto lots of saplings and stumps; sometimes I pull them out; sometimes I spin my wheels, stop, and try something else. It just depends on type of tree, type of soil, amount of moisture, etc. Like you say, you'll just learn by experience what it will and will not do.

Anonymous Poster · Dec 6, 2001

...I will just have to see what it can do, and learn to work with it. I like the idea of nylon straps, if they can handle enough...

Bob,

You normally use the nylon for towing or as a sling for lifting {check your attached labels for strength ratings and such}

I'd read the safety issues front and back in your owners manual... if you haven't got the tractor yet, call the dealer and ask him to please at least send an owners manual so you can study it...

You want to know your tractor frontwards, sideways, and inside out to get the most out of it... you're not talking a simple push lawn mower anyone can operate{ and they are dangerous as well}... you could get killed or severely injured in a blink of an eye while you're trying to learn...

Right off the bat, considering you want to try your hand at "pulling stumps"... read the tractor section on attaching your chains... always, always, always go low and hook at the drawbar for that type of work...

Some months back, I had started a Safety Tips Forum... you should load up your printer with paper and print out all the Safety Manuals that are available...

Going from your garden tractor to this compact tractor is light years apart... but just remember everything has its limitations, including you and your new tractor..., you just have to take the time and learn them...

Good luck Bob... /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Boondox · Dec 6, 2001

You'll lose traction long before the tractor lugs...

Pete

www.GatewayToVermont.com

TerryinMD · Dec 6, 2001

Bob,

I went from a JD 240 Lawn and Garden to a JD4100. Light years differences in handling and usage.

Read the the manual and take it slow. I learned a couple of things pretty quickly.

One of first mistakes was to put the tractor into high range, rev it up and speed down the yard. I made a quick turn and put it up on three wheels. Quiickly turned into the roll and put it back down. Went into the house for a comfort stop. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif/w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

A couple of weeks later, I was trying to get a large limb that wedged between two trees. I was perpendicular to my driveway and the driveway is on a grade. So, silly me tried to lift the limb using my FEL. I was getting a little cocky and somehow the FEL grabbed onto the tree and lifted the back end off of the ground. Well, I dropped the bucket which dropped the back end and I was thrown off of the tractor. Boom, onto the ground with me looking up at the tractor. Turned the tractor off, drove it up to my parking area. Another comfort stop!! /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif/w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif/w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

Now they say the third times the charm. I've been extra careful now. No more recent incidents. When the pucker factor increases, I ease off. Learned my lessons.

When pulling stumps or saplings, I use my 3pt hitch with a drawbar, a hook, and stout chain. Pull the thing out of the ground. If it doesn't bugde, it stays or I'll work out an alternative.

Terry

DocHeb · Dec 6, 2001

Just don't use a nylon strap attached to your tractor, connected to a chain/cable to the object being pulled. Nylon will stretch when under tension, storing energy. If the chain breaks or slips, it will slingshot back towards the tractor.

For more information on chains, try B&B Chain

Rch · Dec 6, 2001

Here is a good source.
http://www.slingchoker.com/products/index.html

RCH

dthomas · Dec 6, 2001

Bob,
I think your tractor icon is the coolest yet. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Donald

beenthere · Dec 6, 2001

Maybe it goes without saying, but one thing not to do is let the chain (or rope) go slack and then get a run at your load, jerking the chain to get the object to move. This kind of operation is where chains and other things break. I don't think your 4300 will come close to breaking a 3/8 chain, or even a 5/16" for that matter, if you ease into the load and don't jerk it. As stated by several, you will lose traction first. Also, pull straight away. Getting at an angle with your object and the direction of pull can tip the tractor.

fractal · Dec 7, 2001

<blockquote>In reply to:<hr>

You'll lose traction long before the tractor lugs...

Pete

<hr></blockquote>

Don't bet on it. I was pulling bogenvia stumps with my B7200hst in low range, 4wd, diff lock engaged at 2800 rpm and the wheels were not spinning and the stump was not moving and the engine was not holding rpm's.

A bigger tractor probably would have spun the ags. I was spinning the ags on the rear without difflock.

Anyway, I use chain rated at many times the capacity of my tractor when pulling stumps and am VERY careful to attack to the tractor below the center of gravity.

Anonymous Poster · Dec 7, 2001

...in low range, 4wd, diff lock engaged at 2800 rpm and the wheels were not spinning and the stump was not moving ...

Unfortunately, that's how differentials and axles end up breaking... going way beyond the limitations of the tractor... /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif