good source for tractor paint?

[BTDT]

Ok, here's an out there question. What would it cost and how long would it last to powdercoat your tractor? Not the whole thing, but the parts that standout, hood, fenders, wheels. I know it would depend on which tractor, but say an 8n or something of similar size.

 

[Soundguy]

Yep.. I use a cheap gun.. and yep.. it does make some overspray. For what i do.. I don't mind it.

If I painted more than 1-2 things a year.. I might invest in a more expensive gun.. perhaps a 30$ one, ( laugh ).

Soundguy

No offense taken. I'm not sure, but I do believe I recall hearing Soundguy saying he uses siphon feed guns. I prefer the lower air pressure of the HVLP gravity feeds. Less overspray with its mess and wasted paint. .

 

[mark777]

BTDT,

I have had pieces powder coated for some fussy customers and the only, and certainly biggest problems, were the fact that the pieces must be factory new...or pristine in condition before they're pre baked. No fillers like lead, bondo or acrylic putties can be used as they are burned away during the baking cycles. Any slight deformation or blemishes become magnified once out of the oven. Also, there is no successful repair procedure for chips, cracks of collision damage and any one particular piece has to be flawlessly repaired, stripped back to base metal or replaced and redone. Other than that, It does an excellent job on projects that are for shows and trailer queens, but never see service in the fields again.

Soundguy, I have seen your work and especially your Allis G. In my opinion it is one of the nicest projects posted on TBN. It was a great read and tutorial...and an inspiration for others contemplating a DIY project. The ONLY thing I've wondered about was why you haven't stepped up to a professional grade gun? I did the math and found that by law a HVLP gun manufactured for use in the U.S. has to meet a minimum of 73% (CA. EPA) transfer efficiency and the gun your using is 25% or slightly less. Which is approx 75% waste of your sprayable materials. I've tried the box store $99 guns and their OK, but I discovered the Sharpe Finex for $30 bucks more and the transfer efficiency is almost 80% (which is the same as my $560. SATA). So for any sprayable material (primer, paint and clears) you are saving nearly $80 of every $100 spent....or LOL painting one tractor and three more for free.

If your cost conscientious like me (cheap) a gun like this one can pay for itself on a single, complete restoration project. Oh, and probably work better with your pancake compressor set up too.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

It makes a guy ( novice like myself) wonder when I can buy acrylic enamel from TSC at about $22 a gallon..and the automotive paint place wants $100 a gallon ( or more!!) for "acrylic enamel"!!!

You aren't buying ACRYLIC enamel at TSC for $22 a gallon. You're buying ALKYD enamel at TSC. Not much more than over-glorified glossy house paint of 1920's technology. If you're not concerned about the lifespan of your paint job, don't leave your equipment outside or use it regularly in a harsh environment, that's not a bad choice of paint. If you're painting something that you intend on KEEPING for some time, or it's going to get "normal use" for a tractor, then you might want to consider using something that's better than "barn paint". Even $100 a gallon would be considered "mid grade" on down to "cheap" paint.

I've heard the old argument that "cheap paint" is so affordable, you can repaint every few years to keep a fresh look. BOGUS CLAIM......... Every time you re-paint, you're building up paint material.. The surface coat isn't any better than the surface it's applied over. Plus, I want MY paint to hold up for a reasonable time frame like the OEM paint job. "Throw-away" paint applied multiple times won't get that done.

Just for the record, I've found better quality paints work better. (spray with less problems) The advantages of high quality paint are more helpful to us hack amatures than they are to good, experienced painters who KNOW the difference. A pro can take K-Mart house paint and make it LOOK good.

I still completely miss the logic behind painting a $3500, or $5000, or $10,000 or $20,000 tractor with cheap paint just to save $75. Any good paint job, with new decals too, will spend a couple hundred bucks minimum. By the time you figure in sandpaper, primer, thinner, electric for the compressor, filters for your dust mask, and all the other "incidentals", it's not hard to drop 3 or 400 bucks just for material on a quickie paint job. What's another $75 to make it a GOOD quickie job?

Here's 3 of the last 5 tractors I've painted. Massey uses OEM AGCO Acrylic Enamel. (Believe it's PPG made) Paint isn't even completely dry on this one yet. Ford uses DuPont Acrylic Enamel. Shot when it was too hot outside for reducer used Not my best effort. Deere is PPG "DEL-FLEET" . (OEM paint on Freightliner trucks, as well as paint of choice for UPS and FED EX jets) The Deere paint is 4 seasons old. (Picture taken this AM. Put rear blade on it for any snow the new year might bring) STill looks and shines like new. There's $490 worth of "product" sprayed on that one.

 

[Sully2]

Yep.. I use a cheap gun.. and yep.. it does make some overspray. For what i do.. I don't mind it.

If I painted more than 1-2 things a year.. I might invest in a more expensive gun.. perhaps a 30$ one, ( laugh ).

Soundguy

That $30 is the SALE PRICE...right???...LMAO!!!!

 

[Sully2]

You aren't buying ACRYLIC enamel at TSC for $22 a gallon. You're buying ALKYD enamel at TSC. Not much more than over-glorified glossy house paint of 1920's technology. If you're not concerned about the lifespan of your paint job, don't leave your equipment outside or use it regularly in a harsh environment, that's not a bad choice of paint. If you're painting something that you intend on KEEPING for some time, or it's going to get "normal use" for a tractor, then you might want to consider using something that's better than "barn paint". Even $100 a gallon would be considered "mid grade" on down to "cheap" paint.

Acrylic..?...Alkyd..? Lordy..Im getting light headed here...lol

BTW: The tractor pics look GOOOOODDD partner..

Im with ya on going cheapie on items... Like painting a custom car using a roller?? It just dont work right...

My stuff has to sit outside...but I set impliments down on 4x4's so they arent in the dirt..and always keep stuff tarp'd over so rain / snow..etc isnt on them. Someday an impliment shed..*sigh*...but I have to start out small and work up.

 

[Partsman2]

I think mark777 hit the nail right on the head as far as paint qualities go. The cheapest being the ready to spray alkyd enamel you get at a place like TSC for $25 a gallon up to polyurethane (Imron) for several hundred $ per gallon.

I am a Dupont/Standox paint distributor and sell to all of the high end body shops in our area. When a body shop is willing to pay $100 per pint for the paint and another $200 a gallon for the clear, plus an additional $150 for the additivies it tells me that paint quality is very important. These guys don't want jobs coming back nor will they run the risk of getting pegged with a bad reputation from bad quality paint jobs. It is a proven fact that you get what you pay for.

With that said there is another matter here that has not been addressed. The quality of prep was touched on which is key but primer quality has not been addressed. Somebody did mention that the top coat only looks as good as the material it is painted over which is very true. Thus, it would be a total waste of money to spend $500 or $600 on Imron paint if you are going to put it over top of a cheap lacquer primer. It will look good at first (maybe) but it will be a short time before the primer underneath fails and the the paint falls in and loses it's gloss. Think of the primer as the foundation of a house. You don't build a house on sand do you?

Primers are the same as paint in that you get what you pay for. You can get a cheap ready to spray lacquer primer for less than $20 per gallon or you can buy a top of the line urethane or epoxy primer for $200 per gallon plus with additives. I'll let you guess which grade of primers the high end body shops use.

As for paint guns, I wouldn't recommend spraying paint that cost $500 a gallon through a $30 paint gun. You better stay with the ready to spray enamel.

What grade of paint you use all has to do with what you want from the end result. If you just want rust protection and don't care about long term appearance a decent primer and cheap paint will probably serve your purpose. If you are restoring something to show or to keep as your pride and joy then you need to lay out the cash for the good stuff.

 

[Partsman2]

BTW - Farmwithjunk said it very well also. Using a good quality primer and a good brand of acrylic enamel with a hardener will make a nice looking job that will last indefinitely if the equipment is kept inside.

But even this grade of paint will begin to show signs of fading in about 3 to 5 years if left in the weather. Also, reds and oranges fade the fastest and are the most expensive. Clear coats will help reduce fade.

 

[kenmac]

Farm ,It appears that you are doing a very detailed job on those tractors & they look very nice. I wouldn't skimp on the paint quality detailing these things as you are.

Partsman, I have painted (or painted at) some of the race cars that I have had. I have always got my paint from the local guy that owns an auto. paint store . He can mix to match most any color & he uses dupont paint.

 

[Soundguy]

Actually, i have considered upgrading to a better gun setup.. especially hvlp.

Also.. i finally upgraded my air supply as well.. I got a 5hp 27 gal compressor. It made my last few painting projects soooo much easier... that batwing mower took lots of paint.

Thanks for the nice comments on the allis G. it was one of my best pieces. ( ford 5000 is pretty good too. )

Soundguy

Soundguy, I have seen your work and especially your Allis G. In my opinion it is one of the nicest projects posted on TBN. It was a great read and tutorial...and an inspiration for others contemplating a DIY project. The ONLY thing I've wondered about was why you haven't stepped up to a professional grade gun? I did the math and found that by law a HVLP gun manufactured for use in the U.S. has to meet a minimum of 73% (CA. EPA) transfer efficiency and the gun your using is 25% or slightly less. Which is approx 75% waste of your sprayable materials. I've tried the box store $99 guns and their OK, but I discovered the Sharpe Finex for $30 bucks more and the transfer efficiency is almost 80% (which is the same as my $560. SATA). So for any sprayable material (primer, paint and clears) you are saving nearly $80 of every $100 spent....or LOL painting one tractor and three more for free.

If your cost conscientious like me (cheap) a gun like this one can pay for itself on a single, complete restoration project. Oh, and probably work better with your pancake compressor set up too.