Gotta split my B3200 to replace a $7 seal, great....

   / Gotta split my B3200 to replace a $7 seal, great.... #11  
How about cutting the shaft and then get one made up with a longer slip joint so it then could be pulled off. I'll bet the cost to get a shaft made is cheaper than the cost to split the tractor.:thumbsup:
Actually, you wouldn't need a shaft, just a collar to go over the driveshaft where it was cut..........then each side drilled for a rollpin.
 
   / Gotta split my B3200 to replace a $7 seal, great.... #12  
Actually, you wouldn't need a shaft, just a collar to go over the driveshaft where it was cut..........then each side drilled for a rollpin.

Yep that would work even better. There has to be a better way then to split the tractor just to get a drive shaft off that should come off anyway. I wish some 'expert' could explain why it was done this way.:confused2:
 
   / Gotta split my B3200 to replace a $7 seal, great....
  • Thread Starter
#13  
I wish some 'expert' could explain why it was done this way.:confused2:

Me too, but I bet this never happens to 99% of the B-series tractors, so in their mind it's a non-issue.

I'm going to pressure wash the tractor in the am, drop the loader and get to work. I think I've devised a plan to 'split' the tractor without completely tearing it apart. Once the loader brackets are off, a few lines, etc I think I can unbolt the clutch housing from the rear frame and scoot it apart an inch or so without completely tearing it down. We'll see....
 
   / Gotta split my B3200 to replace a $7 seal, great.... #14  
I'm new to the tractor world BX24). I've heard this term "splitting the tractor" What exactly do you mean? Is it disconnecting the engine from the transmission?

I've got the infamous broken HST fan and getting ready to move the engine forward so I can get the hst drive shaft off.

Cal
 
   / Gotta split my B3200 to replace a $7 seal, great....
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Is it disconnecting the engine from the transmission?
Cal

Exactly.



Anyways, I got the new seal in today. It was quite a job, and I still have to reassemble the tractor. Total time to split the tractor took 3hrs, it then took about 3 minutes to replace the seal, lol.

First I dropped the loader frame, lots of bolts but pretty straight forward. Lowered it down on the floor jack, it actually wasn't as heavy as I thought it'd be. Next took off all the sheet metal, fuel tank, wiring harness and steering wheel. Then came a multitude of hydraulic lines, some more wiring, and the steering drag link. The whole front 4wd drive line also had to be removed. I then realized I had to remove the steering box to get at the bolts to remove the rear frame section, so it had to come off as well. Blocked up the rear half of the tractor on some wood cribbing, then placed the floor jack under the rear of the engine portion. Unbolted the six bolts and 4 nuts/studs that held the two halves together, slowly rolled the front forward and then all the sudden I had a pair of two-wheeled tractors, lol.

Attached are a few pics of the splitting, once I get the rest uploaded I'll post some pics of the offending seal and drive shaft fix.
 

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   / Gotta split my B3200 to replace a $7 seal, great....
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Once I had it apart I drilled a tiny hole in the seal body, threaded a screw in it and pulled it out. Sure enough there was some hay wrapped around the inside of the seal, hence the leak. Cleaned everything up real well, inspected the shaft and seal bore. A little light grease on the inside of the seal, and a very light coat of permatex 'super 300' on the outside of the seal, then carefully drove it in flush. Attached are some pics of the offending seal, and the location of the drive shaft in the rear section of frame.

Next was fixing the drive shaft so it this problem wouldn't happen again. The pics below show the original setup with the too long roll pin which caught the hay. Next pic shows the shaft with the roll pin cut off and ground flush. I did this on both ends, although the end at the HST is very unlikely to ever get anything into it.
 

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   / Gotta split my B3200 to replace a $7 seal, great.... #17  
Sure looks like a project. :eek: Glad you are getting everything sorted out and everything is running smoothly. :)
 
   / Gotta split my B3200 to replace a $7 seal, great....
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Slid the drive shaft back into place, cleaned up all the mating surfaces, and put the two halves of the tractor back together. I wasn't the easiest thing to do as 4 hydraulic lines, 4 studs, and the drive shaft all had to line up as it went back together. A little fiddling, some prying, etc and I had it all lined up. Put in a few of the bolts and that is where it is so far. I still have to put everything else back together, but at least the main fix is done. Probably will take another 3-4hrs to get everything else back together as I like to clean everything up and torque everything to spec as I go. Might get a chance to work on it tomorrow or monday, I'll give an update once it's back up and running (hopefully without to many leaks, lol)

Here's a pic of it as it sits now:
 

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   / Gotta split my B3200 to replace a $7 seal, great....
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Sure looks like a project. :eek: Glad you are getting everything sorted out and everything is running smoothly. :)

Thanks, it was a fairly large job, but when you just start tearing it down one part at a time it's fairly straight forward.
 
   / Gotta split my B3200 to replace a $7 seal, great.... #20  
Darn shame you had to split it just for that seal. But glad to hear everything is working out so far.
 
 
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