Gotta split my B3200 to replace a $7 seal, great....

[kuboman]

Oh holy crap. All that because some engineer could not engineer a drive shaft to come off.
Glad everything has worked for you so far. :thumbsup:

 

[Verticaltrx]

Darn shame you had to split it just for that seal. But glad to hear everything is working out so far.

Oh holy crap. All that because some engineer could not engineer a drive shaft to come off.
Glad everything has worked for you so far. :thumbsup:

What's a real shame is they used a roll pin that was a 1/2" too long which caused the problem in the first place.


One other thing I have to add on this situation is the WSM (shop manual). While generally useful, despite the terrible English/grammar, there are somethings they tell you to do leaving me scratching my head wondering WTF? Like in the section on splitting the tractor to access the clutch, they have you drain the radiator, and engine oil, and remove the hydraulic cooler and radiator over flow jug. All that is completely irrelevant to the splitting of the tractor for clutch/transmission work.

They also claim you need a steering wheel puller to get the wheel off, but the wheel is made of rubber, lol. Not sure how well that would work, luckily after removing the nut mine slid right off.

Anyways, not a big deal, just a reminder to think about what the manual is telling you to do before doing it. Not sure if some of the stuff was lost in translation or what, who knows.

 

[Johndeere3720]

Thanks, it was a fairly large job, but when you just start tearing it down one part at a time it's fairly straight forward.

Glad it is all working out. I too am working on a bit of a project, I'm re-powering an Allis Chalmers 610 lawn tractor with a 15 hp Briggs. :thumbsup:

Allis Chalmers 610 re-power - TractorByNet.com

 

[dntfxr]

I had to replace the same seal on my b7100, and it was the same ordeal had to split the tractor. The previous owner left it in the weather and the seal was dry rotted on mine. The bad thing is I was able to get almost enough play to remove the shaft but not quite enough to avoid splitting the tractor. The experience sure helps to learn more about how everything works though!

 

[crazyal]

Since you have done this much work to it are you going to put a shorter pin in it or have you looked into making a simple shield to keep grass from getting in there to begin with?

 

[herringchoker]

Glad you got 'er done, but what a major piece of work to correct a stupid problem. Now, preventive work is on my proirity list so this doesn't happen to my B7800. Thanks very much for posting this. :thumbsup:

 

[Verticaltrx]

Since you have done this much work to it are you going to put a shorter pin in it or have you looked into making a simple shield to keep grass from getting in there to begin with?

Already done, see post #16.

Glad you got 'er done, but what a major piece of work to correct a stupid problem. Now, preventive work is on my proirity list so this doesn't happen to my B7800. Thanks very much for posting this. :thumbsup:

Good idea, I'm hoping that people will see this thread and fix the pin problem before it causes them as much grief. It should be an easy fix, just drive the pin(s) out from the bottom, grind/cut them to the right length, then drive them back in. There is plenty of room to do that under there, just not to get the shaft out. Also, really only the roll pin at the engine end is the culprit, the one at the HST end is well protected from any grass. One thing to note, you'll need a couple properly sized punches to get the roll pins out, they are in there pretty tight. Also, it is actually a roll pin inside another, drive the inner one out first, then drive the outer one out. Not sure why the were so concerned about pinning the shaft so well, considering that it's impossible for it to come out.

 

[Don87]

Already done, see post #16.



Good idea, I'm hoping that people will see this thread and fix the pin problem before it causes them as much grief. It should be an easy fix, just drive the pin(s) out from the bottom, grind/cut them to the right length, then drive them back in. There is plenty of room to do that under there, just not to get the shaft out. Also, really only the roll pin at the engine end is the culprit, the one at the HST end is well protected from any grass. One thing to note, you'll need a couple properly sized punches to get the roll pins out, they are in there pretty tight. Also, it is actually a roll pin inside another, drive the inner one out first, then drive the outer one out. Not sure why the were so concerned about pinning the shaft so well, considering that it's impossible for it to come out.

Spinning at 2800 rpm's, trust me, if the roll pin came out the shaft would come off. Probably take a lot of splines with it also.

 

[jakell2010]

At least you didn't have to do it outside,,,,,,

 

[KDD]

Good idea, I'm hoping that people will see this thread and fix the pin problem before it causes them as much grief. It should be an easy fix, just drive the pin(s) out from the bottom, grind/cut them to the right length, then drive them back in. There is plenty of room to do that under there, just not to get the shaft out. Also, really only the roll pin at the engine end is the culprit, the one at the HST end is well protected from any grass. One thing to note, you'll need a couple properly sized punches to get the roll pins out, they are in there pretty tight. Also, it is actually a roll pin inside another, drive the inner one out first, then drive the outer one out. Not sure why the were so concerned about pinning the shaft so well, considering that it's impossible for it to come out.[/QUOTE]

Sorry for your problem, but thanks alot for the heads up as I also have a B3200. Would there be a problem with cutting them off while the pins are still in the shaft?