Grader/Scraper Build

[redheelerdog]

Looks like the leading edge of your blade is opposite from most. Just wondering.

It just turned out that way, no specific reason.

Maybe he is gonna use it in England,, where people drive on the opposite side of the road??

Many, (not me) believe the angle of the blade does nothing as far as moving material towards the center of the driveway.
If that is so, the direction of the angle is meaningless.
The angle is mostly there so that the blade will contact many "washboard ripples" , rather than riding up and down the ripples.

The build is looking great!! :thumbsup:

Thanks, I've read a bit about the angle blades and asked some questions, I do believe the angled blade makes a difference with washboards, etc. - Thanks

I agree. The angle will definitely shift material toward the trailing end. In the case of this build, only having one blade, it will move it very effectively.

I always thought if I built one I'd use two blades at opposite angles. But I don't have any experience with one to base that on.

I always follow threads about land planes because they perk my curiosity.

This is an excellent build thread. Very well documented and discussed.

If the road material doesn't do what I want well, I just hack the thing apart, modify it, and put it back together until it does! That's one thing about building it yourself, its always open to modifications. - Thanks for the comments

I also have a King Cutter style rotatable back blade (self built) to move material around with too. :thumbsup:

 

[Smokeydog]

Plasma cutter has been a welcome addition to the small farm shop. Like tools that can pay for themselves, save time and expand capabilities. Repair, utilize scrap materials, prototype, etc.

Had the opportunity to try another brand land plane before EA. Like the inventor of the original land plane design, the angle and length of side panels matter. Also depends on the end user satisfaction and needs.

Great deal of pleasure building or modifying equipment to meet your expectations and needs.

The first one I tried had a ssqa on the back as well 3pt hitch. Didn’t try that feature but might be useful sometimes.
Offset or sliding hitch might be handy to bring gravel back onto the road bed.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I agree. The angle will definitely shift material toward the trailing end. In the case of this build, only having one blade, it will move it very effectively.

I always thought if I built one I'd use two blades at opposite angles. But I don't have any experience with one to base that on.

I always follow threads about land planes because they perk my curiosity.

This is an excellent build thread. Very well documented and discussed.

Intuitively that would seem to be true but I think that the lateral movement along the blade is very very small. I have straight blades so I can't say for sure first hand what angled blades do but I have looked at every video I could find and honestly cannot see any lateral movement along the blade except if material is falling into a low spot spot, like a rut, off a full blade. The blade tilt back angle is shallow, only about 45* usually, and the angle across the road is usually small so it is easier for material to flow up over the tilted back blade rather than along it against the weight of the material in a full blade with a closed end. Unless the blade is mounted up right like a a rear blade and has a strong angle across the road.

I would love to see a video that proves my theory wrong by actually showing the material flowing along the blade more than a inch or so. If any one knows of one or can make one please post it.

gg

 

[Rustyiron]

Great build, thanks for posting.:thumbsup:

 

[ovrszd]

Intuitively that would seem to be true but I think that the lateral movement along the blade is very very small. I have straight blades so I can't say for sure first hand what angled blades do but I have looked at every video I could find and honestly cannot see any lateral movement along the blade except if material is falling into a low spot spot, like a rut, off a full blade. The blade tilt back angle is shallow, only about 45* usually, and the angle across the road is usually small so it is easier for material to flow up over the tilted back blade rather than along it against the weight of the material in a full blade with a closed end. Unless the blade is mounted up right like a a rear blade and has a strong angle across the road.

I would love to see a video that proves my theory wrong by actually showing the material flowing along the blade more than a inch or so. If any one knows of one or can make one please post it.

gg

I agree that there's no dramatic movement of material as with a rear blade angled.

In the case of this build. If the operator drives down the right side of the roadway every time he will eventually move his material to the outside. It's inevitable. It won't happen the first time he does it. Or even the second time. But in a year or two, dependent on frequency, he will be hitching to a rear angle blade to rebuild his crown.

I'm a grader guy. I function in small increments. I move minimal material and repeat the procedure as many times as weather permits in a year. I don't build crowns, I maintain them.

 

[redheelerdog]

Dang it, now I am going to have to build two, one for the left side of the road, and one for the right! LOL

 

[ovrszd]

Dang it, now I am going to have to build two, one for the left side of the road, and one for the right! LOL

Yep.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I agree that there's no dramatic movement of material as with a rear blade angled.

In the case of this build. If the operator drives down the right side of the roadway every time he will eventually move his material to the outside. It's inevitable. It won't happen the first time he does it. Or even the second time. But in a year or two, dependent on frequency, he will be hitching to a rear angle blade to rebuild his crown.

I'm a grader guy. I function in small increments. I move minimal material and repeat the procedure as many times as weather permits in a year. I don't build crowns, I maintain them.

What you say is true about the incremental moves with each pass over time but also over time the surface material is moving down hill from natural forces. If this were not true you would not have to maintain the crown as you say and you do it with a grader specifically designed to contour roads. The LandPlane is not like that it is designed for surface maintenance not contour maintenance. So the question is - How significant is the minimal crown maintaining ability of the angled blade LandPlane. Every owner would likely have a different answer depending on the road, the climate, and how they maintain it. To you it may be a great feature to have a very small amount of crown maintenance happen with each pass over long periods of time. To me it insignificant. What is wrong with that ?

gg

 

[ovrszd]

What you say is true about the incremental moves with each pass over time but also over time the surface material is moving down hill from natural forces. If this were not true you would not have to maintain the crown as you say and you do it with a grader specifically designed to contour roads. The LandPlane is not like that it is designed for surface maintenance not contour maintenance. So the question is - How significant is the minimal crown maintaining ability of the angled blade LandPlane. Every owner would likely have a different answer depending on the road, the climate, and how they maintain it. To you it may be a great feature to have a very small amount of crown maintenance happen with each pass over long periods of time. To me it insignificant. What is wrong with that ?

gg

Sorry if I ever indicated there was something wrong with what you said. Certainly was not my intent.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Sorry if I ever indicated there was something wrong with what you said. Certainly was not my intent.

I know that. So no apology necessary at all. Actually my mistake so I am the sorry one - I forgot that redheeler has his blades angled opposite to convention so I missed your point entirely and then on top on that I went and misread/misinterpreted what you said. Thank you for being polite to a guy ranting on for no reason.

gg

 

[Smokeydog]

My driveway has to be contoured. I maintain that contour with the land plane using the side link adjustment. 26” rain already this year. That’s about a million gallons of water to shed so far.

On my 3rd grader blade in 50 years. 98% of the time pulled the blade backwards at angle to maintain the road. Yardbox was used sometimes to mostly carry washed gravel back up hill. Yardbox takes an incredible amount of adjustment on a convoluted, hillside driveway and still needs to be cleaned up with a grader blade.
Have not hitched to either the blade or box since getting the land plane.

The land plane has been the best tool so far to maintain to keep the road bed hard and contoured to get the water off. Fast, efficient with long lasting results. Results also duplicated by neighbors with similar driveways. I may never understand the how’s and why’s on why it works, but sure appreciate the results.

Always a better tool, technique or idea to be had. Applaud the OP effort and sharing. Enjoy the craftsmanship and challenge it takes to create. Getting close for the first ground engagement test? Good dog!

 

[Yard Sarge]

I have found mine land plane to be the best for driveway maintenance also. it does move material to the crown. It is subtle though. I did have to add a brace for the top link post though. there was far more side stress on it than i thought. Your build looks far more professional than mine. Good Looking so far.

 

[CADplans]

Red, before you paint, consider adding a bracket to the left side, that will allow you to hang some front end weights.

I have found having the side of the land plane weighted really helps with moving material towards the opposite side of the land plane.

Your blade angles opposite of mine, I hang weights on the right side.
My sides are 1/2"X12" bar, there is nothing on the top of my sides,, I just place the weights directly on the side.

I would recommend using 3/8" thick bar, that should allow any type suitcase weight to fit.

If you look at the far side of my land plane, you can see three black 65 pound front end weights hanging on the side.
The weights dramatically increase penetration of the blade of the land plane on the weighted side.
The non-weighted side will "float up" allowing the land plane to deposit material towards the non-weighted side..

My only other suitcase weights are the 42 pound JD weights, they will not fit on the 1/2" thick bar,,
so the most weight I have ever tried is 195 pounds.

I tie a rope through the handle hole of the weights, so they will not fly off when I hit a bump,,

 

[ovrszd]

I know that. So no apology necessary at all. Actually my mistake so I am the sorry one - I forgot that redheeler has his blades angled opposite to convention so I missed your point entirely and then on top on that I went and misread/misinterpreted what you said. Thank you for being polite to a guy ranting on for no reason.

gg

I have the utmost respect for you Gordon. It's easy to be polite.

 

[ovrszd]

I have found mine land plane to be the best for driveway maintenance also. it does move material to the crown. It is subtle though. I did have to add a brace for the top link post though. there was far more side stress on it than i thought. Your build looks far more professional than mine. Good Looking so far.View attachment 647206

I like that. Very simple. Gets it's weight from it's frame construction. Do you remember what angle you are running your blades?

 

[Yard Sarge]

No I don't off the top of my head. I did cheat and measured the dealer's $1,500.00 one though. Same angle as that was. If I remember correctly, it was more subtle than I expected.

 

[ovrszd]

No I don't off the top of my head. I did cheat and measured the dealer's $1,500.00 one though. Same angle as that was. If I remember correctly, it was more subtle than I expected.

Yep .

 

[redheelerdog]

My driveway has to be contoured. I maintain that contour with the land plane using the side link adjustment. 26” rain already this year. That’s about a million gallons of water to shed so far.

On my 3rd grader blade in 50 years. 98% of the time pulled the blade backwards at angle to maintain the road. Yardbox was used sometimes to mostly carry washed gravel back up hill. Yardbox takes an incredible amount of adjustment on a convoluted, hillside driveway and still needs to be cleaned up with a grader blade.
Have not hitched to either the blade or box since getting the land plane.

The land plane has been the best tool so far to maintain to keep the road bed hard and contoured to get the water off. Fast, efficient with long lasting results. Results also duplicated by neighbors with similar driveways. I may never understand the how’s and why’s on why it works, but sure appreciate the results.

Always a better tool, technique or idea to be had. Applaud the OP effort and sharing. Enjoy the craftsmanship and challenge it takes to create. Getting close for the first ground engagement test? Good dog!

Thanks Smokeydog, it is fun and I like the challenge of building things.

I have found mine land plane to be the best for driveway maintenance also. it does move material to the crown. It is subtle though. I did have to add a brace for the top link post though. there was far more side stress on it than i thought. Your build looks far more professional than mine. Good Looking so far.View attachment 647206

Thanks for the compliment.

Red, before you paint, consider adding a bracket to the left side, that will allow you to hang some front end weights.

I have found having the side of the land plane weighted really helps with moving material towards the opposite side of the land plane.

Your blade angles opposite of mine, I hang weights on the right side.
My sides are 1/2"X12" bar, there is nothing on the top of my sides,, I just place the weights directly on the side.

I would recommend using 3/8" thick bar, that should allow any type suitcase weight to fit.

If you look at the far side of my land plane, you can see three black 65 pound front end weights hanging on the side.
The weights dramatically increase penetration of the blade of the land plane on the weighted side.
The non-weighted side will "float up" allowing the land plane to deposit material towards the non-weighted side..

My only other suitcase weights are the 42 pound JD weights, they will not fit on the 1/2" thick bar,,
so the most weight I have ever tried is 195 pounds.

I tie a rope through the handle hole of the weights, so they will not fly off when I hit a bump,,

Thanks for the info, I will definitely keep that in mind.

No I don't off the top of my head. I did cheat and measured the dealer's $1,500.00 one though. Same angle as that was. If I remember correctly, it was more subtle than I expected.

My research prior to building was 7 to 10 degrees.

 

[Smokeydog]

Noted on my EA LP yesterday the angles that hold the blades are not a true angle iron. They are a bent 90* piece of 3/8” plate with approximately 5” and 3.5” legs. I didn’t measure. Cutting blades bolted to the short leg. This stands up the angle of the cutting blades to a more like a grader blade. This design also puts more steel depth behind the blades for strength.

The blades after three years show wear. Have large rocks just under the roadbed in spots. The LP does a good job of going over them but does take its toll. The beauty of the LP is that it helps build the road around these high spots over time.

 

[CADplans]

My research prior to building was 7 to 10 degrees.

I ended up angling my blade at 15 degrees,, (post #32 in this thread,,)

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...7-landplane-my-diy-4.html?highlight=landplane

I think I did research this, and went 5 degrees further than any commercial landplane that I could find specs on,,

10 degrees will probably be great,, I just had long enough sides to accommodate 15 degrees,,