grading a long lane

[/pine]

...to migrate back to the higher side.

defying gravity is an art...!

 

[Gordon Gould]

How high did you make your sides on your LP?

They are 12" X 3/8" plate. If I made another they would be at least 14", mostly for more weight but also to allow more room for loose material like sod and leaves mixed with dirt or gravel to pass thru. The 12" height is fine for gravel road work at it's present weight. If I add extra weight to it the land plane cuts harder and a lot more gravel passes thru and higher sides would be better.

 

[Kyle241]

I use a BB for my drive which is only 350ft or so. The very first time I used it, I was not impressed but the next time I put the tines down to loosen up the top layer and then went back over it with the blade and it did a great job. Personally the BB is plenty for me and I would not have multiple attachments for my drive and instead put the money elsewhere on another attachment, e.g. grapple, chipper, etc. but that all depends on what needs you have.

 

[johnnyvol]

They are 12" X 3/8" plate. If I made another they would be at least 14", mostly for more weight but also to allow more room for loose material like sod and leaves mixed with dirt or gravel to pass thru. The 12" height is fine for gravel road work at it's present weight. If I add extra weight to it the land plane cuts harder and a lot more gravel passes thru and higher sides would be better.

I hope you don't mind but I've taken your design to a friend who has a fabrication business and he's going to build one for me. I decided to make the skids from 12x2x3/8 rectangular tubing for extra weight. I'm interested that you would have made the sides taller. Do you routinely have spillage over the sides or is it more of a every now and then type of thing?

 

[94BULLITT]

They are 12" X 3/8" plate. If I made another they would be at least 14", mostly for more weight but also to allow more room for loose material like sod and leaves mixed with dirt or gravel to pass thru. The 12" height is fine for gravel road work at it's present weight. If I add extra weight to it the land plane cuts harder and a lot more gravel passes thru and higher sides would be better.

I want to make one but have not had the time to. I was thinking about 14" high sides for the 4240.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I hope you don't mind but I've taken your design to a friend who has a fabrication business and he's going to build one for me. I decided to make the skids from 12x2x3/8 rectangular tubing for extra weight. I'm interested that you would have made the sides taller. Do you routinely have spillage over the sides or is it more of a every now and then type of thing?

I don't ever get spillage over the side that I can remember. But if I am recuttiing a road edge along a sod line to make it wider or just to clean it up or doing a road with lots of leaves and/or sod in it then the box fills up with this junk and the clearance under the top cross members could be higher to get better flow thru. If the loose stuff builds up and hits the cross member it gets damed up. You can avoid this by just lifting the 3ph a little or changing your top link length a little but it takes more passes to get the job done. Make sure you don't put an upper cross member over a blade or you will really have a pinch point that will catch stuff.
edit: It is just an ocassional thing and never a problem with clean gravel only when sod and leaves are mixed in. I thought making it heavier and higher would be two good things that would not hurt anything.

Help your self to any thing you see - I don't mind a bit. Square tube idea is great.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I hope you don't mind but I've taken your design to a friend who has a fabrication business and he's going to build one for me. I decided to make the skids from 12x2x3/8 rectangular tubing for extra weight. I'm interested that you would have made the sides taller. Do you routinely have spillage over the sides or is it more of a every now and then type of thing?

The sides on this unit are 22" tall, and I routinely have material over them. A lot depends on the type of material being graded, moisture content and if I'm lazy that day and don't pay attention. There are a lot of times that I don't pay attention.

 

[jenkinsph]

I hope you don't mind but I've taken your design to a friend who has a fabrication business and he's going to build one for me. I decided to make the skids from 12x2x3/8 rectangular tubing for extra weight. I'm interested that you would have made the sides taller. Do you routinely have spillage over the sides or is it more of a every now and then type of thing?

Using the rectangular tubing is a good idea, plenty heavy, and doesn't hold the rocks letting them fall on the grass areas. When I built my small landplane I used rectangular tubing for the skids and add the wear strip on the bottom which also wraps around the end of the tubing to close it in. Here are a couple of pics of the build.

 

[johnnyvol]

I don't ever get spillage over the side that I can remember. But if I am recuttiing a road edge along a sod line to make it wider or just to clean it up or doing a road with lots of leaves and/or sod in it then the box fills up with this junk and the clearance under the top cross members could be higher to get better flow thru. If the loose stuff builds up and hits the cross member it gets damed up. You can avoid this by just lifting the 3ph a little or changing your top link length a little but it takes more passes to get the job done. Make sure you don't put an upper cross member over a blade or you will really have a pinch point that will catch stuff.
edit: It is just an ocassional thing and never a problem with clean gravel only when sod and leaves are mixed in. I thought making it heavier and higher would be two good things that would not hurt anything.

Help your self to any thing you see - I don't mind a bit. Square tube idea is great.

Thanks. I understand now why you said you'd build the sides higher.

The sides on this unit are 22" tall, and I routinely have material over them. A lot depends on the type of material being graded, moisture content and if I'm lazy that day and don't pay attention. There are a lot of times that I don't pay attention.

I took those pics to my friend as well.

Using the rectangular tubing is a good idea, plenty heavy, and doesn't hold the rocks letting them fall on the grass areas. When I built my small landplane I used rectangular tubing for the skids and add the wear strip on the bottom which also wraps around the end of the tubing to close it in. Here are a couple of pics of the build.

Yup, I saw those pics and that's where I got the idea to use rectangular tubing. :thumbsup:

 

[94BULLITT]

Big rectangular tubing is not stocked were I live:thumbdown: I have a few other ideas though.

 

[sparc]

I don't ever get spillage over the side that I can remember. But if I am recuttiing a road edge along a sod line to make it wider or just to clean it up or doing a road with lots of leaves and/or sod in it then the box fills up with this junk and the clearance under the top cross members could be higher to get better flow thru. If the loose stuff builds up and hits the cross member it gets damed up. You can avoid this by just lifting the 3ph a little or changing your top link length a little but it takes more passes to get the job done. Make sure you don't put an upper cross member over a blade or you will really have a pinch point that will catch stuff.
edit: It is just an ocassional thing and never a problem with clean gravel only when sod and leaves are mixed in. I thought making it heavier and higher would be two good things that would not hurt anything.

Help your self to any thing you see - I don't mind a bit. Square tube idea is great.

I like the hinged blade you have on the rear. Do you have a way to restrain it so you can control the release of material?

I may consider adding that to mine. Is it set like a hinged rear blade on a Box Blade.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Big rectangular tubing is not stocked were I live:thumbdown: I have a few other ideas though.

Roger, forget about tubing. (bunch of wimps anyway. ) Use 1" thick material and be done with it. Build the runners out of 2" X 1" material with 45 degree cut on each side of the top for no pebble holding. Then you can use some other solid stock to get it all together and you should have a nice unit that weighs about 4000lbs. WAIT, maybe this isn't such a good idea. :confused2: Better go back to your other ideas.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I like the hinged blade you have on the rear. Do you have a way to restrain it so you can control the release of material?

I may consider adding that to mine. Is it set like a hinged rear blade on a Box Blade.

Add a hydraulic to the tail gate and a person would be all set.

 

[94BULLITT]

Roger, forget about tubing. (bunch of wimps anyway. ) Use 1" thick material and be done with it. Build the runners out of 2" X 1" material with 45 degree cut on each side of the top for no pebble holding. Then you can use some other solid stock to get it all together and you should have a nice unit that weighs about 4000lbs. WAIT, maybe this isn't such a good idea. :confused2: Better go back to your other ideas.

Is this design for the BX?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Is this design for the BX?

Whatever can make use of it, maybe a BXtra. :tractor: :laughing:

 

[sparc]

Add a hydraulic to the tail gate and a person would be all set.

yes, that would be a nice option to have.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Power brush and chain drag does it for our mile long gravel drive. Brush angled toward center then 2 passes with the drag.
larry

 

[crazyal]

defying gravity is an art...!

That's the advantage of the angle blades. The gravel will travel along the blade towards the right side of the GS even if it's a little higher as you drive along.

 

[crazyal]

I was going to make one but by the time I added up the parts it didn't save me enough. But I wanted ripping shanks and really didn't have any scrap steel hanging around. If you look around you may find a pair of cutting edges for a snow plow (that's what I was going to use) that are hardened. The factory blades are tapered on the ends so they cut into the ground a little easier but I think when I priced replacements they were over $100 each.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I like the hinged blade you have on the rear. Do you have a way to restrain it so you can control the release of material?

I may consider adding that to mine. Is it set like a hinged rear blade on a Box Blade.

I just have two pins that act as stops for the bottom of the tailgate swing. Look at the middle picture on post #16 in this thread and you can see one of them.
If I hang the tailgate behind the pins it acts as a heavy drag going forward and tends to collect and hold light stuff like sod. If I want to get rid of the sod I can leave a pile of it in the road and then back into it and the tailgate acts as a push blade because it hits the stop pins. I just push it off the road. So yes, it is like a box blade with a hinged rear blade.
If I roll the tailgate up and flip it over so it hangs down inside the pins the tailgate can't swing backwards and the box will collect material just like a box blade. So with my hydraulic top link I can control the collection, moving, and releasing of material like you would a box blade. It's not the same as a box blade because of the long box and skids but if I have a really rough area to level or I want to move material from a washout deposit back where it belongs being able to hold alot of material in the box rather than letting all pass through really is useful. It is real easy to control the whole thing with the hydraulic top link.