Grinding Sound !! - Dealer Says NORMAL
- Thread starter MoyockHeel
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johnk
Elite Member
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- Jun 7, 2003
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- 2,618
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- western NY
- Tractor
- Kubota GST Grand L3130 w/ 723 loader, Ags
MoyockHeel ,
Glad to see all is well. It just a pita when you buy something new because you want to avoid problems and Then they happen. Happens with everything.
Good luck and enjoy it now...
Glad to see all is well. It just a pita when you buy something new because you want to avoid problems and Then they happen. Happens with everything.
Good luck and enjoy it now...
OP
MoyockHeel
Member
SHVL - Your bracketry, and light, both look very robust. I'm not sure I can find something exactly like that, but the NH dealer said a light is made for this tractor. One wire, etc. I was sort of wondering if there is a catalog for accessories for the NH boomer tractors. Has anyone seen such a thing?
Johnk - As stated from the beginning, this tractor, in good working order is exactly what I wanted. Actually, it is over-engineered for the tasks I perform. That was by design, wanting longevity. I realize it may be considered wasteful to have a piece of equipment that is not being used to its optimum potential, but I wanted a horse that wouldn't be worn down after each use. Believe me, I cross every doubled piece of anatomy I can, each time I start the tractor...and that's uncomfortable.
I'll let everyone know what the service report looks like when I see it. It could be interesting. Thanks, again, for the helpful hints.
Johnk - As stated from the beginning, this tractor, in good working order is exactly what I wanted. Actually, it is over-engineered for the tasks I perform. That was by design, wanting longevity. I realize it may be considered wasteful to have a piece of equipment that is not being used to its optimum potential, but I wanted a horse that wouldn't be worn down after each use. Believe me, I cross every doubled piece of anatomy I can, each time I start the tractor...and that's uncomfortable.
I'll let everyone know what the service report looks like when I see it. It could be interesting. Thanks, again, for the helpful hints.
BTDT
Veteran Member
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- North Texas
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- IH M Farmall-propane powered, H Farmall (father-in-laws), Ford 1300 diesel
Hope your problems are resolved. Put it to work and release some of the tension. Post some pics of your projects.
jwstewar
Elite Member
I would be a little bit hesitant to use Superglue on anything foam based. I've seen Superglue "eat" foam and styrofoam. If would apply it to a very small portion before I went to far, otherwise you may be having to buy some insulation.
jinman
Rest in Peace
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- Feb 23, 2001
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- 20,387
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- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
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- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
jwstewar said:
You may be right about that, Jim. Soft foam would be a lot more sensitive than the rubber grommet on my bed cover. A little test on an out of the way area would be best before a full-scale application.
Soundguy
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Car headliner spray adhesive from 3m may work.. doesnt eat foam and holds darn near anything.. kinda like the 3m molding glue.. once 2 things are stuck together.. one of them is gonna break before you get them apart!
Soundguy
Soundguy
OP
MoyockHeel
Member
It sure is nice to be talking about some of the more trivial aspects of owning a tractor! I've used the tractor for about 0.5-1.0 hours per day since I've had it back home. So far the noises are "normal".
I'll look at the other types of adhesives, like the head liner glue. Thanks for the input.
I looked at the NH website for the work light. (Thanks for the pointer FullPull.) I provided the part numbers for the bracket and light assembly to the dealer. It was a little pricey (~80). I haven't made my mind up yet. I noticed in the diagram that it shows it being wired to a pigtail from the rear flasher fixture that was evidently mounted to an older model tc40da's right rear fender. The dealer indicates the light will come with instructions for wiring, etc.
I'd like to change the position of my ROP mounted lights to inside of the ROP to lessen tree limb strikes. I realize I have to drill a small hole for the wires to enter the ROP (I know the taboo against that). I was planning on taking the right side fixture and placing on the inside of the left ROP upright, and vice versa for the other side. (or would it be easier to just cut the wire and splice it back through the new hole, and then change the lenses, as the fixture will be turned around backwards to go on the opposite side of the same upright). Or, can I unplug the lights from a connection somewhere behind the seat, so they can be switched to the opposite side, without having to cut and splice the wires? Please let me know if anyone has done this. I know there was another thread about it, but I don't think it went into too much detail of the actual process.
The thought was that it made the lights less visible when moved inside the ROP, but the way I'm going with mine, they won't be visible at all due to damage by low limbs. And I have already cut the bad limbs from my yard, it's just in strange territory that I'm having problems. Any help is appreciated.
I'll look at the other types of adhesives, like the head liner glue. Thanks for the input.
I looked at the NH website for the work light. (Thanks for the pointer FullPull.) I provided the part numbers for the bracket and light assembly to the dealer. It was a little pricey (~80). I haven't made my mind up yet. I noticed in the diagram that it shows it being wired to a pigtail from the rear flasher fixture that was evidently mounted to an older model tc40da's right rear fender. The dealer indicates the light will come with instructions for wiring, etc.
I'd like to change the position of my ROP mounted lights to inside of the ROP to lessen tree limb strikes. I realize I have to drill a small hole for the wires to enter the ROP (I know the taboo against that). I was planning on taking the right side fixture and placing on the inside of the left ROP upright, and vice versa for the other side. (or would it be easier to just cut the wire and splice it back through the new hole, and then change the lenses, as the fixture will be turned around backwards to go on the opposite side of the same upright). Or, can I unplug the lights from a connection somewhere behind the seat, so they can be switched to the opposite side, without having to cut and splice the wires? Please let me know if anyone has done this. I know there was another thread about it, but I don't think it went into too much detail of the actual process.
The thought was that it made the lights less visible when moved inside the ROP, but the way I'm going with mine, they won't be visible at all due to damage by low limbs. And I have already cut the bad limbs from my yard, it's just in strange territory that I'm having problems. Any help is appreciated.
