Having a blast with our new M62

[Wormwood]

Thx Granddad!

It sounds like it's just normal operation. I get that same smell when it gets hot. Ir temp gun shows 150-160ｰF, however it's cooled off today. It's very difficult to re-train yourself for these newer tractors & how they operate.

The batwing can make the M62 grunt going uphill in tall fescue, as long as your rpms are up it'll just keep on going. Keeping these soft landpride blades sharp is the key. I dunno about running in L gear, seems like that would defeat the purpose of a 12' bushhog. If I had to mow in L gear, I'll go look at an M5 for an addition or trade.... I hope it doesn't come to that. :thumbsup:

Wormwood

 

[MutzFarm]

Hey Mutzfarm, congratz!

Can you tell me if your hydraulics ever get hot enough that the casings could burn you, if you held onto the metal for say ..... 5-6 seconds? I'm running my M62 with a Landpride 12' batwing at around 2200rpm & after an hour or so I can begin to feel the heat rising up from behind the seat. The hydraulics are that hot! Of course thats running in M gear using both hi/lo speeds & the PTO engaged. The metal casings are so hot that it's painful to remove the 3pt. hitch from the back end...

I've checked all fluids & I'm good there, the radiator screen is a joke, everything gets past it & clogs the radiators. It's a real booger cleaning and requires a pressure washer & shop air. Someone mentioned about putting bigger radiators on or an additional hydraulic cooler. I think I might just try doing that, but was wondering if anyone else has noticed the heatsoak.

Wormwood

I gotta say sorry for the delay for getting back to you. We got our hands in everything and we are always full blown busy or just sitting idle. Anyways I use gas powered air compressor I drag around to blow out the radiator. I know when running the backhoe the cylinders get pretty warm. I think that 12' batwing maybe a bit much to run in M in the L or H selection. I use L on the H side and sometimes I think it is to fast. Remember 12' is twice what it says in the manual as far as a 3 point unit goes so I think running on the H side of L is still good. I am currently looking at semi pull type units with the offset around 7 to 8 footers. I believe the 540 pto is at 2,600 +/- rpm. Also what kind of unit did you have before? Getting used to a new unit and how to operate it to suit you and the machine takes time.

 

[MutzFarm]

Just a few thoughts re. the heat. 1) Yes, do the radiator cleaning as often as needed. Don't know if there is anything unique about the M62 layout that makes it any worse than a conventional Grand L unit. Just speculating though... you've got a lot of extra backhoe subframe and loader structure you're carrying around, so maybe there's not as much airflow getting to the engine bay and transmission areas. 2) The engine is rated at 2,700 rpm, not 2,200 rpm, so are you really making the full rated hydraulic flow at 2,200? If not, that may be contributing to the heat build up. 3) That 12' cutter may be a handful depending on what you are cutting with it. Have you tried dropping into L to see if that helps? 4) Does engine temp also go up? 5) Do you have access to an IR heat measuring device? The hydraulics do get really hot in operation... I think 185 F is typical. I could always tell when mine was getting hot because there was a distinctive aroma to the HST fluid that was my signal to back off what I was doing. Good luck sorting this out.

WELL SAID!!!

 

[MutzFarm]

Congratulations, that's a very impressive piece of equipment!!!! Do you have a grapple yet? The backhoe and grapple combination is just perfect for clearing land. Dig it out with the hoe, carry it to the burn pile with the grapple. Easy Pleasy

O man yes I do have a grapple. What I like to do is take the bucket on the loader and push on the tree. If it goes over usually we are done, but if not I'll raise the bucket up break it off above the ground some where if possible. Then I'll spin around and take the hoe with the thumb and move the broke pieces to the side. Next dig out the stump and back fill. Finally after I have done a few I'll put on the grapple and consolidate the debris.

 

[MutzFarm]

Thx Granddad!

It sounds like it's just normal operation. I get that same smell when it gets hot. Ir temp gun shows 150-160ｰF, however it's cooled off today. It's very difficult to re-train yourself for these newer tractors & how they operate.

The batwing can make the M62 grunt going uphill in tall fescue, as long as your rpms are up it'll just keep on going. Keeping these soft landpride blades sharp is the key. I dunno about running in L gear, seems like that would defeat the purpose of a 12' bushhog. If I had to mow in L gear, I'll go look at an M5 for an addition or trade.... I hope it doesn't come to that. :thumbsup:

Wormwood

I dunno how you would do the center section of the batwing and the sides are easy since the hydraulics will pick them up, but here is how I do our 3 point cutters.

 

[mikester]

Did you get the hydraulic quick attach on the loader? If yes how do you like it? I'm thinking of retrofitting my M59...

 

[Piston]

I went and operated an M62 a few months ago and REALLY liked it! It had the cab option installed and it was nice to get a feel for it. I thought when operating the hoe though that it really needed the tires filled. The hoe is so powerful it pushed the machine around a lot.
Do you guys notice this or am I just too used to a full sized construction backhoe? Overall, I liked the M62 better than my full sized backhoe.

An idea I've thought a lot about, is using the tractor in reverse when stumpgrinding. Of all my attachments that is the one that bothers my neck the most.
It would take some creative retrofitting, but do you that it would be feasible to override the speed limiter on the creep function in order to allow full speed on it?

Great photos, congrats, and thank you for posting! As always, we look forward to more and more pics of the M62/59!

 

[Wormwood]

Well, I still don't believe what found but the hydraulic radiator was clogged again. This is only after ~15 hrs. of use. Here's the problem I see with a crankshaft driven fan & your operating rpm 2500+, you have a good suction through the front. Additionally you have the FEL in front of the exhaust pointed at the ground that's blowing anything loose into the air right in front of the radiators. Finally you have no screen or anything to filter the debris fron entering the hydraulics radiator. This by the way is the most effective screen for the coolant radiator. Additionally, you have no temp gauge for the hydraulics yet you have a coolant temp gauge & the overheated hydrauic system can cost more than the engine ever thought about... I'm trying to find any sort of idiot light or any temp sensor in the hydraulic system, surely there is one?
In any case, dunno if it's my enviroment or what but I now have to blow out the radiators before work every morning, I should have been doing this from the start but lesson learned.

Wormwood

 

[Wormwood]

Good idea on the sides!! Thx!!!!

I use a set of ramps to back the center section up on & then put logs under the side frames to keep it stable. Finally crawl up under from the back of the center section. I haven't found a better way but I'm open to suggestions....

Not really fond of having to look at the face of the grinding disc as I grind the blade laying on my back.

Wormwood

 

[deezler]

I dunno how you would do the center section of the batwing and the sides are easy since the hydraulics will pick them up, but here is how I do our 3 point cutters.

You sharpen them by talking in a youtube video for 4 minutes? Doesn't seem all that effective, haha. But seriously, I scrolled through without sound (at work) and saw no action. boring!