Having fun till this happended

[jinman]

I personally never put over 35 psi in my front tires and never have a problem unless pressure leaks out. I've popped the bead on tires two or three times when they are low, but never rolled the bead off the rim. That's a new one on me. I use a ratchet strap to spread the tire and some soapy water to aid catching the bead and inflating the tire. The beauty of owning a FEL is you don't need a jack.:thumbsup:

 

[AGGIE00]

Garage? Get a couple of tire irons from Northern Tool or someplace. Its not that much more difficult then putting a tire on a bike. Hard part is to air up the tire if you don't have a large air compressor. I use a rachet strap around the centre of the tire to help seal the bead area until the air pressure does its thing.

So if your other tire had 45 lbs in it, then why did this tire deflate? Did the garage fix a puncture? Since I started doing my own tires, I also put some RTV silicone (black) around the bead on tubeless tires to ensure a good seal. Good luck, Nice Tractor.

Go buy some ether, raise the front end with the loader, clean the bead, spray some ether in the tire and light. Add needed air and go back to work. 10 minute process. Broke the bead on both front tires of a backhoe once and had them reset in less than 5 minutes with ether.

 

[AGGIE00]

OK, so just now noticed that the bead is off the rim. Easy to replace with a 3 or 4 pound hammer, and then ether.

 

[Bill 55]

If you are going to try the ether trick take the valve core out. It is amazing how much pressure can be generated when that stuff goes off. I have used it on semi tires and do not recommend it to amateurs. It can be dangerous. We always used two people with the ether trick. One sprayed a burst of ether the other lit a rag on a long stick and ran it up to the edge of the tire while the first person whacked the tire with a hammer. be prepared for a significant explosion that will seat the beads to the rim. They should stay seated until you can get the valve core reinstalled. That being said I would jack it up pop it off and take it to a tire shop. They will charge you A few bucks and if it does have a leak can fix it while you are there. I would say you have a leak and the pressure got low enough for the bead to roll off the rim when you turned

 

[DoubleL]

Garage? Get a couple of tire irons from Northern Tool or someplace. Its not that much more difficult then putting a tire on a bike. Hard part is to air up the tire if you don't have a large air compressor. I use a rachet strap around the centre of the tire to help seal the bead area until the air pressure does its thing.

So if your other tire had 45 lbs in it, then why did this tire deflate? Did the garage fix a puncture? Since I started doing my own tires, I also put some RTV silicone (black) around the bead on tubeless tires to ensure a good seal. Good luck, Nice Tractor.

Well the garage is 5 minutes away, guy fixed the tire on the spot in about 15 minutes. No charge. We are a small community and the guy helped me out in a pinch. I do buy gas and get oil changes and inspections done there. I have to go back and pay them something for sure I surely was grateful, but I left in such a hurry I forgot my wallet.

And it is cool not needing a jack with the loader.

 

[RADIUM]

doubleL I just want to understand this correctly your dealer sold you chains for the front of your tractor to be used on paved surfaces in four-wheel drive and said there was no problem with it? I wonder if anyone else remembers the people that were talking about front end four-wheel drive parts snapping I'm trying to remember the exact post four-wheel drive wasn't working after doing some loader work. a bevel gear reduction which all our tractors have in the boomer class is a limited gear cross-section contact, I believe one of the post the dealer told him to not use four-wheel drive on dry pavement with a load in the loader, I can't remember exactly what broke up front but it happened to a few people.

 

[20 20]

my first guess would be low pressure, or possibly the chain which I'm not a fan of putting chains on the front of tractors

Same feelings here :thumbsup: Your rear wheels are your main drive, they are built to take the torque.

 

[texasjohn]

I run max psi in both my front tires....this is truly needed, IMHO, when using FEL with heavy loads, as I do. Else run risk of rolling tire off of rim, exactly as happened to you.

 

[bironacad]

I didn't notice that the rear tires were without the chains. Chains on the front not the back look wierd to me, can't recall seeing that. I would imagine with a load on the fel and industrial tires the front tires would bite just fine. Are your rear tires loaded? giving you weight to the back?

 

[MMagis]

doubleL I just want to understand this correctly your dealer sold you chains for the front of your tractor to be used on paved surfaces in four-wheel drive and said there was no problem with it? I wonder if anyone else remembers the people that were talking about front end four-wheel drive parts snapping I'm trying to remember the exact post four-wheel drive wasn't working after doing some loader work. a bevel gear reduction which all our tractors have in the boomer class is a limited gear cross-section contact, I believe one of the post the dealer told him to not use four-wheel drive on dry pavement with a load in the loader, I can't remember exactly what broke up front but it happened to a few people.

I don't know why this is brought up so much, especially in a post like this where has nothing to do with anything. If traction provided by front chains hurt anything, by that line of reasoning just driving on dry pavement would tear our tractors up. Traction is a GOOD thing. If a tractor needs to slip to prevent damage, somethings wrong.