wood butcher
Silver Member
Wow...I'd sell it. I'll come by this afternoon to take that junk heap off your hands. Of course, I cant give you what you want for it since it's damaged and all! 
Having fun till this happended
- Thread starter DoubleL
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jimmysisson
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2005
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- 2,358
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- 1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)
Agree it looks like it was underinflated, must have been forgot when the right-side tire was aired up. I'm in the chains-on-rear camp, though they seem heavier every year. I don't use them unless it's icy, since I like a little wheel slip when lifting/pushing back the snow banks. Got some to 8' now and it's a grunt to get the full blade load up there. The tires are slipping a little keeping forward pressure on without an HST.
Jim
Jim
Gary Fowler
Super Star Member
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- 2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010
Supposedly the front drive is geared to turn just slightly faster than the rear when new tires are on. I am thinking the ratio mentioned was 1 to 1.05, so the front tire sdo slip a bit all the time. I wouldnt think having chains on the front would be an issue as long as none on the rears. The rears should slide slightly on the icy surface. Front chains would give you good steering on slippery surfaces and with a loaded FEL, most of your traction comes from the front. I dont know about the NH gear strength, but with my tractors with loaded FEL the rear end is pretty light so there shouldn't be an issue with binding of the drive train. But I am not an NH expert.
OP
DoubleL
Bronze Member
I'm getting confused so I called the dealer to get advice again. :confused2:
When doing heavy loader work they recommend front tires at 40-45 PSI (basically pumped up to max which so happens to be 45 PSI). The snow yesterday was wet and heavy to say the least.
When I purchased the tractor the front chains were recommended to me by the salesman because they were cheaper and easier to install and other customers they sold to have had good success with the fronts only. The front chains would give the tractor the traction it needs on ice.
Note: The rear is filled with ww fluid (about 800 lbs) so I have good ballast.
I went and ordered the rear chains because of this incident. They told me NOT to run chains on all 4 tires because you need "slippage" somewhere. If you don't have slippage that's when you risk damage. This is what they recommend on skid loaders too. So the recommendation from my dealer is ...
Chains on front or rear only NOT BOTH.
Rear will give best results but the chains are more expensive and harder to install.
Regarding the reason for my tire slipping off the rim I'm really not sure (nor is the dealer) if the chains contributed or not.
I didn't check the tire pressure at any time since I purchased the tractor only a little over a month ago. Whether or not is was low I suspect it wasn't but I can't be sure.
Thanks for all your posts. :thumbsup:
When doing heavy loader work they recommend front tires at 40-45 PSI (basically pumped up to max which so happens to be 45 PSI). The snow yesterday was wet and heavy to say the least.
When I purchased the tractor the front chains were recommended to me by the salesman because they were cheaper and easier to install and other customers they sold to have had good success with the fronts only. The front chains would give the tractor the traction it needs on ice.
Note: The rear is filled with ww fluid (about 800 lbs) so I have good ballast.
I went and ordered the rear chains because of this incident. They told me NOT to run chains on all 4 tires because you need "slippage" somewhere. If you don't have slippage that's when you risk damage. This is what they recommend on skid loaders too. So the recommendation from my dealer is ...
Chains on front or rear only NOT BOTH.
Rear will give best results but the chains are more expensive and harder to install.
Regarding the reason for my tire slipping off the rim I'm really not sure (nor is the dealer) if the chains contributed or not.
I didn't check the tire pressure at any time since I purchased the tractor only a little over a month ago. Whether or not is was low I suspect it wasn't but I can't be sure.
Thanks for all your posts. :thumbsup:
dcyrilc
Elite Member
If you do a lot of loader work like I do, you may consider having the front tires foam filled. No flats, no popping the bead, and they handle the weight well.
eepete
Platinum Member
Haven't seen this mentioned yet: I put inner tubes in my front tires. I've popped them moving things in the mud. So while I was at the tire shop I had them put in an inner tube. Both ties have them now. Ask tire guy how much it would cost. I seem to remember it was $10 to 15.
Pete
Pete
Don't rule out bead failure especially if the pressure was set to something higher than max (who knows if the gauge was accurate?). We only see the outside of the rim and tire. Take off the wheel and look at the inside edge.
Since you have stem protectors on the wheels, ice or packed snow may have dislodged the valve stem enough to air out the tire. Since there are only a few hours on the machine (and the tires may not have been O.E.) its possible that the bead mounting 'soap' made the seal weak as a result of the cold weather.
I wouldn't rule out a defective tire or rim either. If the bead wire got misplaced on the drum during the tire build, its not going to fit or seal properly when side loaded. I'll bet on it happening again if that's the case.
Since you have stem protectors on the wheels, ice or packed snow may have dislodged the valve stem enough to air out the tire. Since there are only a few hours on the machine (and the tires may not have been O.E.) its possible that the bead mounting 'soap' made the seal weak as a result of the cold weather.
I wouldn't rule out a defective tire or rim either. If the bead wire got misplaced on the drum during the tire build, its not going to fit or seal properly when side loaded. I'll bet on it happening again if that's the case.
Your recommended tire pressures should be in your manual. Tires that size should probably have about 30 PSI in them. Even wet snow only weighs a third of what gravel weighs. I don't think I would run front and rear chains on pavement, but then those are not very aggressive chains either. Try it with just the rears and see how it goes.
Hooked_on_HP
Veteran Member
I don't know if is just the way I am looking at the pic but it looks like there is a split all the way around the bead. Am I seeing things.
Bill
Bill
