Help Identifying Tiller

[BodeMiller]

Can anyone here help me identify what brand/model tiller this is? Thanks.

 

[paulsharvey]

Yes — from the photos, that appears to be an older Howard Rotavator (or possibly a Lely or Ford-branded version of the same machine). Here are the key identifiers that point toward a Howard Rotavator:

Distinctive gearbox shape and side cover – the large rounded gearbox housing with the bolt-on access plate is a hallmark of Howard tillers from the 1960s–1980s.

Heavy-duty chain drive housing – Howard used an oil-bath chain case on one side (as seen in your photo) rather than a gear drive, which matches that large bulged cover and filler plug.

Adjustable tailboard and depth skids – the rear panel with side plates and chain support are classic Howard design elements.

Three-point hitch configuration and PTO shaft setup – the overall geometry matches Howard’s “HR,” “Rotavator E,” or “Rotavator 60/70” models.

Likely model

It looks most like a Howard Rotavator HR30 or HR40, depending on the width (around 60–80 inches wide).
If you measure the working width and find a tag or stamped number on the gearbox housing, it can confirm the exact model.
Common models from this era include:

HR30 – ~60" tilling width

HR40 – ~80" tilling width

Rotavator 70 series – similar build but newer decal style


Notes

These units are PTO-driven (540 rpm), chain-drive tillers, very durable, and still serviceable.

Gearbox oil and chain case oil should be checked or replaced before use.

Howard was originally a British company (later acquired by Daken/Howard Australia and CNH).


If you can find a data plate (often on top of the gearbox or left-hand side near the hitch frame) or give me the overall width, I can narrow down the model exactly.

 

[paulsharvey]

Thats just uploading your imagines to Chat, so, the next step, I would pull data on the HR30 and HR40, and look for similarities/differences, and see if its right

 

[TractorTech]

Welcome to TBN!

I disagree. Not Howard and not Ford as the early ones were RH chain boxes. Later were LH gear driven side box. The center gearbox and top frame not Howard.
It could be a Maletti, Bushhog, not sure though.
What width is it? It looks 60-65". What kind of blades on it? C or L style? Are there part numbers on the blades or a casting number on the center gearbox anywhere?

 

[BodeMiller]

Yes — from the photos, that appears to be an older Howard Rotavator (or possibly a Lely or Ford-branded version of the same machine). Here are the key identifiers that point toward a Howard Rotavator:

Distinctive gearbox shape and side cover – the large rounded gearbox housing with the bolt-on access plate is a hallmark of Howard tillers from the 1960s–1980s.

Heavy-duty chain drive housing – Howard used an oil-bath chain case on one side (as seen in your photo) rather than a gear drive, which matches that large bulged cover and filler plug.

Adjustable tailboard and depth skids – the rear panel with side plates and chain support are classic Howard design elements.

Three-point hitch configuration and PTO shaft setup – the overall geometry matches Howard’s “HR,” “Rotavator E,” or “Rotavator 60/70” models.

Likely model

It looks most like a Howard Rotavator HR30 or HR40, depending on the width (around 60–80 inches wide).
If you measure the working width and find a tag or stamped number on the gearbox housing, it can confirm the exact model.
Common models from this era include:

HR30 – ~60" tilling width

HR40 – ~80" tilling width

Rotavator 70 series – similar build but newer decal style


Notes

These units are PTO-driven (540 rpm), chain-drive tillers, very durable, and still serviceable.

Gearbox oil and chain case oil should be checked or replaced before use.

Howard was originally a British company (later acquired by Daken/Howard Australia and CNH).


If you can find a data plate (often on top of the gearbox or left-hand side near the hitch frame) or give me the overall width, I can narrow down the model exactly.

Awesome info. Thanks. The only thing I can find on it is a sticker D72. I’m borrowing it from a neighbor and it stopped functioning. The tiller isn’t moving but the PTO drive seems to be going. Thoughts?

 

[BodeMiller]

Here are the tines.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Sounds like a shear-bolt. Find where it’s slipping and replace the bolt.

If the gearbox is turning, then need to check for broken chain.

 

[TractorTech]

Awesome info. Thanks. The only thing I can find on it is a sticker D72. I’m borrowing it from a neighbor and it stopped functioning. The tiller isn’t moving but the PTO drive seems to be going. Thoughts?

So the drive is moving? With the tractor off, can you move the rotor that holds the tines? Does it have a PTO slipclutch or shearbolt on the driveline?

 

[BodeMiller]

When I free spin the PTO shaft the chain rotates but the tine shaft(?) doesn’t. When I spin the tine shaft the chain doesn’t move. I can hear a sound of what may be the chain slipping past a sprocket. I don’t see a shear pin anywhere. Also, have a bad seal it seems.

 

[TractorTech]

Well if you hear the chain slipping past a sprocket, you'll have to remove the side gearbox cover. You may find part numbers on the sprockets. The seal will have its own number and can be procured through a bearing shop.
You will also be able to tell original color of the tiller when you remove the gearbox cover. However, most were originally orage, but it may help determine manufacturer.

 

[BodeMiller]

New update. Removed the chain drive cover. It’s not the gear slipping, I think the shaft may have snapped. My thought is still shear pin but I can’t find one. Also, no part numbers on the gears.

 

[paulsharvey]

I'm guessing a piece of keystock that connects the sprocket to the shaft


Edit: NVM on keyway, j see the sprocket splines to the shaft. That top one, the wear doesnt appear centered on the female spline though

 

[paulsharvey]

So, now, try rotating the shaft by hand, and see if the top axle turns? Then rotate the tines, and see if the bottom shaft rotates

 

[paulsharvey]

Just looking at the picture, it looks like a lot of wear at top male spline, and a wallered out female.

If it was Mine, id look at just two small tack welds to keep top sprocket firmly attached to the top output shaft?

 

[paulsharvey]

Im 90% sure the noise is the top sprocket slipping on the top output shaft, just from pictures of the wear.

It kinda looks male and female both have wear, so maybe? Just a tighter female (lot cheaper/easier), would fit snug for another couple decades on the worn male shaft.

Failing that, tack welds, or a soft metal, like copper, couple thin strips, and press (hammer) the sprocket back, and the copper engraves both splines and removes any slop

 

[BodeMiller]

When I spin the lower spines the tine shaft doesn’t move. That’s where the noise is as well. My guess is the the shaft broke inside the circle here. I have no idea how this is all connected though. It really seems like there should be a shear pin here somewhere, which could be the problem. I just can’t find one. Also, have a video but don’t know how to post it.

 

[TractorTech]

A shear pin is going to be on the center gearbox input shaft holding the driveline to it.
You would have to remove the rotor bearing holder bolts on both sides of the tiller. That should give you room to wriggle the rotor shaft out of the tiller. Unless there is a stub shaft in the rotor drive end that sheared, it is probably the splined shaft that broke.

 

[BodeMiller]

Well found the issue. Driveshaft break right behind the spline. Still trying to find the brands. Also, think this is weldable?

 

[BodeMiller]

 

[paulsharvey]

Hmm... weldable yeah, but the problem is you almost need a lathe to turn the welds down to fit in the "axle" tube. This might be a "career ending injury" for the tiller. If you can find the shaft, its not going to be a cheap part.
Also, that took some Force to sheer like that, and the weld is going to need to be done right to last.