oldpilgrim
Elite Member
4x4 or nothing.....................
Help me make a decision
- Thread starter tim6948
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I've pretty much ruled out the Tym as being too small. Our LS and Tym dealer is about 10 min. away and really nice to talk to. Kubota is about the same distance and the the Case/Mahindra dealer is moving to our side of town. Our land is gently sloping from hilltop to bottomland, but there are some steep spots to think about. I guess I will look at a few more 4 wheel drives.
Thanks again,
Tim
Thanks again,
Tim
TSO
Elite Member
I'd also agree that the size/weight/HP of that TYM is too small. I also agree that b'hogging 40 acres with a 5 or 6 ft mower would be less than desirable. I'd also try to push you towards a cab. B'hogging can be dirty, dusty, insect-ridden work. I've NEVER finished hogging and felt anything less than utterly thankful I was inside a cab... Especially on time consuming jobs like 40 acres.
Something like an LS u5030 cab would fit the bill nicely. See if you can find a fairly priced almost new one.
Something like an LS u5030 cab would fit the bill nicely. See if you can find a fairly priced almost new one.
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BWfarms
New member
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- Jun 18, 2015
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- 21
- Location
- Graham, NC
- Tractor
- CaseIH Farmall 65A, Ford 5000 Super Major, Ford 1320
Simple perspective. Guy down the road, bless his heart, mowed about 8 acres with his new loaded 30 some hp Kubota with a 4 foot mower in 3 foot weeds and grass. Took him 3 days to finish. Guess what? He got rid of the silly compact and got a bigger tractor.
I'm not saying buy a CaseIH Maxxum. I do not know the prices of what you are currently considering but the Chevy Colorados are priced comparable to a Silverado. You get a whole lot more truck and same mileage by going bigger.
Now the guys scaring you about 2wd and loaders, I just chuckle. I use a 2wd tractor baling hay up butt puckering hills in spots. Same tractor has a FEL and it works fine, I can move through the mud just fine. Mind you the "4wd" does steer better with a FEL, but I have one less thing to maintain. Plus those "4wd" are not pulling with the same power as the rear wheels hence they are called front wheel assist.
Now the fuel is costly so heavier tractor burns more than a lighter tractor. What a myth! The more power a tractor has to use to maintain the implement is what burns the fuel up. A larger tractor can run at lower RPMs versus a smaller tractor having to stay in the throttle using the same implement. Most of the newer tractors are efficient four cylinders and some are turbo. You will not see a difference in fuel used.
Now I would absolutely love a MFWD tractor because I do extensive loader work, but a 2wd will get the same job done for you. Get a larger tractor, hp and weight wise, will be beneficial because you want a loader with the third function to operate a grapple. Especially with all the clearing you anticipate. I have used the smaller tractors and they are okay to operate but don't expect a tank. Still way too light if you ever want to plow, harrow, or subsoil.
340 hours on a tractor, that's hardly touched. When you need to be concerned is when they are out past 4000+ hours. Let's say you use a tractor 100hrs a year for 40 years. You got your money's worth 20 years ago because 20 year old tractors now sell for more than when they were new.
Something like these are the smallest I would go. Check them out and you will never have to worry about parts and dealers. John Deere naturally cost more but there are plenty of good used utilities on dealer lots because guys buy something small and realize they need a bigger tractor.
http://m.tractorhouse.com/ListingDetail/Index?industryName=TRACTOR&listingId=9349593&categoryId=1110
http://m.tractorhouse.com/ListingDetail/Index?industryName=TRACTOR&listingId=8410127&categoryId=1110
I'm not saying buy a CaseIH Maxxum. I do not know the prices of what you are currently considering but the Chevy Colorados are priced comparable to a Silverado. You get a whole lot more truck and same mileage by going bigger.
Now the guys scaring you about 2wd and loaders, I just chuckle. I use a 2wd tractor baling hay up butt puckering hills in spots. Same tractor has a FEL and it works fine, I can move through the mud just fine. Mind you the "4wd" does steer better with a FEL, but I have one less thing to maintain. Plus those "4wd" are not pulling with the same power as the rear wheels hence they are called front wheel assist.
Now the fuel is costly so heavier tractor burns more than a lighter tractor. What a myth! The more power a tractor has to use to maintain the implement is what burns the fuel up. A larger tractor can run at lower RPMs versus a smaller tractor having to stay in the throttle using the same implement. Most of the newer tractors are efficient four cylinders and some are turbo. You will not see a difference in fuel used.
Now I would absolutely love a MFWD tractor because I do extensive loader work, but a 2wd will get the same job done for you. Get a larger tractor, hp and weight wise, will be beneficial because you want a loader with the third function to operate a grapple. Especially with all the clearing you anticipate. I have used the smaller tractors and they are okay to operate but don't expect a tank. Still way too light if you ever want to plow, harrow, or subsoil.
340 hours on a tractor, that's hardly touched. When you need to be concerned is when they are out past 4000+ hours. Let's say you use a tractor 100hrs a year for 40 years. You got your money's worth 20 years ago because 20 year old tractors now sell for more than when they were new.
Something like these are the smallest I would go. Check them out and you will never have to worry about parts and dealers. John Deere naturally cost more but there are plenty of good used utilities on dealer lots because guys buy something small and realize they need a bigger tractor.
http://m.tractorhouse.com/ListingDetail/Index?industryName=TRACTOR&listingId=9349593&categoryId=1110
http://m.tractorhouse.com/ListingDetail/Index?industryName=TRACTOR&listingId=8410127&categoryId=1110
Much the same as my thoughts! Some folks make it seem as if we could get nothing done without 4 wheel drive. Fact of the matter is I have never gotten stuck with a 2 wheel drive tractor but have gotten a 4x4 stuck many times! Go figure! Secondly it seems that too many folks forget how to drive when they talk about going down hills with a loader full , In many cases it is the safest thing with or without 4 wheel drive to BACK down the hill! Your front axel isn't designed to take all the weight anyway and one day those of you who keep using the 4 wheel drive traction as a fail safe will learn the hard way when your going down hill with a load and break an axel or have too much weight at an off angle and the back end swings out and you roll anyway! Yes it has happened ! WHat amazes me the most is how many folks preach about safety on things like PTO Shields or seat safety switches and then go down a steep hill with the back tires floating thinking they are perfectly safe because they have 4 wheel drive giving them traction!
oldpilgrim
Elite Member
I had a 2WD tractor/loader/bh for over 20 years. I have now had a 4WD tractor/loader/bh for 1 year.
There is no comparison to what a 4wd can do over a 2wd drive for pulling, pushing, climbing up/down a hill, snow removal, dirt moving, plowing, grading. I can't tell you how many times I got seriously stuck with the 2wd where a 4wd wouldn't have even slowed down.
You can't always do the same with 2wd as with a 4wd.
My tractor has what's called Mechanical Four Wheel Drive or MFWD.
The rear wheels turn with max hp. The front wheels turn when the rears turn, they are geared, do not slip with regards to the rear, all four wheels turn at the same time (with diff lock on) but somehow they don't have as much power as the rear wheels?? This does not compute.
Even it they "don't have the same power" as the rear wheels, they still add traction to the tractor that 2wd tractors don't.
Seems like a much better idea to me.
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Turbys_1700
Elite Member
I'll chime in. I just purchased a 32 year old 4610 SU Ford just to bush hog with and I am using a small 6' bush hog. In 4th gear I am running around 4.5 MPH and can cut anything I can run over. 2.5 acres per hour is what I am averaging. As far as fuel goes, those darn things just don't burn a whole lot of fuel. Very efficient. I really don't mind the seat time that much either. I would not hesitate to purchase any 2 WD tractor with a FEL if it was in the 5K pound range with adequate HP. My 4610 SU with loaded tires is close to 6K and very stable. It does not have a FEL. I use a 28 HP 1720 4 WD New Holland with a FEL for my finish mowing. It does great for chores around the house and farm.
Local dealer had a nice one owner 253 Massey with a FEL traded in a month ago. It was 2WD. Didn't stay on the lot a week. Any tractor with a FEL around here will sell.
Local dealer had a nice one owner 253 Massey with a FEL traded in a month ago. It was 2WD. Didn't stay on the lot a week. Any tractor with a FEL around here will sell.
Poopdeck Pappy
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- May 13, 2013
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- Dallas, Texas
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- Kioti DK50SE Cab, Kubota BX23, Kubota BX2660, Grasshopper 729BT
2wd is great . . . until you need 4wd.
The great thing about MFWD is that I can run in 2wd all I want to, but I've got 4wd when I need/want it.
The great thing about MFWD is that I can run in 2wd all I want to, but I've got 4wd when I need/want it.
BWfarms
New member
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Messages
- 21
- Location
- Graham, NC
- Tractor
- CaseIH Farmall 65A, Ford 5000 Super Major, Ford 1320
Jeez, the defense of Mechanical Front Wheel Drive. I never said I was against it and that I would like one. For Tim's needs and budget restraints, a larger 2wd with FEL (3rd function) would be the better option. MFWD is really a convenience feature, not a necessity to accomplish the job.
I couldn't help but notice that the staunch MFWD supporters all have smaller tractors that are probably outfitted with R4 tires or even turfs. (Minus the H) Yes you are going to need MFWD with R4s because they are worthless in soft soil. I run nothing but Ag tires designed for traction. R4s were designed for minimal soil disturbances. Sliding into ditches, really TJP89? You must have your brake pedals locked together all the time. Here's the nice thing about independent brakes, you use them to steer the tractor when you can't use the steering wheel.
I operate semis, roll off truck, articulating dirt trucks, bulldozers, excavators, backhoes, skid steers, 2wd and MFWD tractors (CUT to Row Crops stopping short of tracks and articulating 4WDs). All of them with the old lever styles or joysticks. I however have not had the pleasure of operating a combine or windrower yet. I may get to add windrower to the list since I'm considering getting one. I would say I have a fair amount of equipment experience, I use them on the farm or my part time job. I have never got a 2wd utility tractor stuck using Ag tires.
So Tim, do not fear the 2wd and a loader. As long as you have Ag tires, a little sense, and your brakes unlocked you will be fine. You have to remember MFWD is a luxury add on for a tractor, much like a pickup truck. My advice is based on a professional operator's experience and understanding you are under a budget and need to get a job done. I've never heard a guy say "Man, I wish my tractor had less power." I understand buying with a budget. I'm in the market for a minimum 80hp pto cab tractor. Yes I would like it to have a loader and MFWD but I can make do with 2WD to stay in budget.
I couldn't help but notice that the staunch MFWD supporters all have smaller tractors that are probably outfitted with R4 tires or even turfs. (Minus the H) Yes you are going to need MFWD with R4s because they are worthless in soft soil. I run nothing but Ag tires designed for traction. R4s were designed for minimal soil disturbances. Sliding into ditches, really TJP89? You must have your brake pedals locked together all the time. Here's the nice thing about independent brakes, you use them to steer the tractor when you can't use the steering wheel.
I operate semis, roll off truck, articulating dirt trucks, bulldozers, excavators, backhoes, skid steers, 2wd and MFWD tractors (CUT to Row Crops stopping short of tracks and articulating 4WDs). All of them with the old lever styles or joysticks. I however have not had the pleasure of operating a combine or windrower yet. I may get to add windrower to the list since I'm considering getting one. I would say I have a fair amount of equipment experience, I use them on the farm or my part time job. I have never got a 2wd utility tractor stuck using Ag tires.
So Tim, do not fear the 2wd and a loader. As long as you have Ag tires, a little sense, and your brakes unlocked you will be fine. You have to remember MFWD is a luxury add on for a tractor, much like a pickup truck. My advice is based on a professional operator's experience and understanding you are under a budget and need to get a job done. I've never heard a guy say "Man, I wish my tractor had less power." I understand buying with a budget. I'm in the market for a minimum 80hp pto cab tractor. Yes I would like it to have a loader and MFWD but I can make do with 2WD to stay in budget.
