Help ordering hydraulic fittings (for rear remote)

[rswyan]

Sodo,

Here's a pic of the return to tank port location, JIC run tee and associated fittings (plugged off since my rear remote valve is currently off the tractor) on my B2910 ... your return port may be in the same location (below and in front of the dipstick):

My fitting arrangement (JIC run tee + 45 + 90) was needed to accommodate routing the hose to the original location my rear remote valve was in ... best to avoid so many fittings if at all possible.

 

[Sodo]

OK RS, your description is correct and helped me to follow & identify the lines.

I included a pic of both sides of the Dinoil valve. What does the "P" signify? Also whats the component the right of the "P"?

Can a PB be added here (the upper plug)? Should I remove this plug, photo/measure it etc? Or will it be just a Dinoil 'standard'?

I suppose this is "return to the tank" where I add the a Tee (and the new hose from the "out"). And move the current "out" hose over to the new PB. Assuming I can get a PB valve for this rig.

This thread has been very informative and it looks like I have a plan ------ that all hinges on whether a PB can be added to this valve.

 

[Sodo]

RS, looks like we were posting at the same time. Thanks for revisiting this.

Is this a 'return port'? The hose is from the "OUT" on my FEL valve. Do I need to disassemble and look at it?

My tractor is 100 miles from home, so it gets a little nerve wracking sometimes ordering parts like this from home.

 

[rswyan]

OK RS, your description is correct and helped me to follow & identify the lines.

Good deal.

I included a pic of both sides of the Dinoil valve. What does the "P" signify?

Not really familiar with how Dinoil (Italian company I believe) marks their valves ... but maybe "P" is for "Pressure" ?

Also whats the component the right of the "P"?

That appears to be the pressure relief (valve) for the entire rear remote valve assembly.

It's likely adjustable - so that the pressure where the (rear remote) valve goes into relief and bypasses fluid back to the tank can be set (independently, from any other valves in the chain) for your rear remote valves.

One thing to know about that is: in an open-center system, plumbed in series, the maximum pressure for any valve will be controlled by the relief on any valves which are upstream of it in the chain.

IOW: if the relief on your FEL valve is set to 2000 psi, you can set a lower relief pressure on the Dinoil valve ... but setting a higher pressure (on the Dinoil valve) will functionally do nothing ... because the FEL valve will go into relief once the pressure reaches 2000 psi ...

Can a PB be added here (the upper plug)?

I'm guessing that either the upper plug or the side plug could be removed and a power-beyond adapter could be added, assuming that Dinoil makes one for that valve. (It may be one or the other but not both - the port has to be machine for the adapter to seat and seal)

IOW: it appears (to me) that the valve might be designed for conversion to a power-beyond capability.

Should I remove this plug, photo/measure it etc? Or will it be just a Dinoil 'standard'?

I would think it should be standard ... but the particular valve (model, series, etc.) may need to be indentified in order to get the correct one. (Different adapters for different sized valves with different flow rates, etc.)

I suppose this is "return to the tank"

Looks to be ...

where I add the a Tee (and the new hose from the "out"). And move the current "out" hose over to the new PB.

Correct.

Assuming I can get a PB valve for this rig.

Yup

This thread has been very informative and it looks like I have a plan ------ that all hinges on whether a PB can be added to this valve.

Good luck on your search for the PB adapter.

 

[BukitCase]

I just re-read this entire thread, and I'm still wondering -

Where/when did we get from "I wanna use the un-used middle valve" to "I wanna add another separate valve body" ??!?

:confused3::confused2:

 

[rswyan]

It isn't a question so much of wanting to add another separate valve assembly, as it is getting the one he has (for his rear remotes) plumbed correctly ...

 

[Sodo]

The goal remains ..... To put QCs on the the middle valve, that it may be used.

In fact I am still wondering what is the REAL effect that will be made - by adding the PB circuit. I hear "its better", it's the "correct way" to do hydraulics (nowadays). I would like to know, what is the specific detriment to leaving it "as-is".

Sorry I just have to know these things, it helps me to understand.

 

[BukitCase]

OK, got it -

Have you ever found an actual part # for your Dinoil valve? Some have a raised casting # right on the valve, Prince does this - it can be confusing tho, it's not always the same # as the PART # that part is listed under.

I mis-spoke a few page back, PB adapters are NOT usually pipe threads. Don't remember what Prince uses, but they're parallel threads - most likely ORB (SAE O-ring)

Disadvantage of leaving it like it is - maybe nothing, but it's more likely that (if your system is NOT plumbed to the correct ports) the tank seals just haven't blown YET.

The "P" on your valve is supposed to be the inlet, "P" can stand for "Pressure", "Pump"; and the plug on the END of the valve, next to the "P" port that's connected, is nearly always just an alternate choice for connecting the inlet.

On the OPPOSITE end of the valve, if you have the same two ports, typically one will be set up for either the simple plug, or (if installed) the PB adapter. Only ONE of the two adjacent ports will be set up for an (optional) PB adapter because of the required internal machining.

AFAIK, the only way to be sure is to either have the EXACT manual for that valve, or take the (hopefully TWO) fittings off that end of the valve (probably labeled "T" or "PB", and look inside with an inspection mirror and a strong light - if, in EITHER of the ports, you see a MACHINED circle DIRECTLY in line with the outer threads, then it's a very good chance that port can be either "Tank", or "PB", depending on whether or not you put a PB adapter in that hole.

IF that output is going ANYWHERE but back to Tank, you should have a PB adapter there - otherwise, odds are REALLY good you will eventually (if not already) have messed up seals in the valve.

When you get back to the tractor, the very FIRST thing I would suggest is to (with your new-found EXPERT status ) re-trace your system and make sure things follow the basic rules - high pressure lines should ALWAYS go from Pump to Inlet, Tank ports ONLY go to tank (and may be teed), Outlets to the NEXT device ALWAYS come from PB ports EXCEPT for the last device in the path, which can/should be a Tank port which ONLY returns to Tank.

Without doing your own CUSTOM/ACCURATE roadmap, this thread'll get even LONGER, but probably NOT any CLEARER ... Steve

 

[Sodo]

high pressure lines should ALWAYS go from Pump to Inlet
Tank ports ONLY go to tank (and may be teed)
Outlets to the NEXT device ALWAYS come from PB ports EXCEPT for the last device in the path, which can/should be a Tank port which ONLY returns to Tank.

I'm digesting this. Does my outlet from the Dinoil valve go to the "Tank port"? Or does it go to NEXT device (3-pt hitch control) ?

===========

Here's pics with plugs removed on my Dinoil valve., I don't see anything that looks like it's ready for a PB adapter. Seems silly to me, why wouldn't they make every valve body ready for PB? Do I need to look inside the "OUT" port? I shoulda, but ran out of time and had to absquatulate. Again, I'm 100 miles away from my tractor. But always come back to her its like my 2nd wife.

 

[rswyan]

I'm digesting this. Does my outlet from the Dinoil valve go to the "Tank port"? Or does it go to NEXT device (3-pt hitch control) ?

Based on the pics you have supplied thus far, it appears that the only line/hose running to the tank port on the tractor is coming from your FEL control valve.

And the "out" line/hose from the Dinoil valve goes to the inlet side of mid hydraulic block (said block being part of a power beyond path/chain)

So the answer to your first question above is "no" and the answer to thew second is "yes" ...

BTW - The reason why I said "out" immediately above is because of what you wrote below:

Here's pics with plugs removed on my Dinoil valve., I don't see anything that looks like it's ready for a PB adapter.

You didn't remove the fitting that the "out" hose is connected to ...

What does it look like inside that port ?

IOW: it may be possible - based on what we already know is incorrect - that whoever cobbled this thing together skipped using the return to tank ports on the Dinoil valve ... and used the power beyond port on the valve - without the proper adapter - and then just skipped using a return hose/line to the tank altogether.

Seems silly to me, why wouldn't they make every valve body ready for PB?

Cost.

Do I need to look inside the "OUT" port?

Yupper ...

I shoulda, but ran out of time and had to "leave hurriedly" & now I'm 100 miles away from my tractor. But always come back to her its like my 2nd wife.

Take a peek next time you're there ...