Boy howdy can't wait for the pressure flow test this coming Monday. Found another pump on e-bay, seems that a pump for a Satoh Bull "S-630" is very similar to what is on my tractor. Looks identical in fact. The pics on e-bay showed the drive shaft with the stub shaft that looks like a large flat screwdriver. I'll find out what mine looks like this weekend. It is mounted on the wrong side of the tractor, hope that doesn't mean much. E-bay pump $300.
HELP weak pump or worn lift cylinder?
- Thread starter itsmesrd
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Dave M7040
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I too will be very interested in the pump tests.
Did you ever remove the top of the lifter?
Dave M7040
Have not worked on the tractor at all. I hope to video each part as I go. This will help me to remember where everything goes as well as be able to show what I'm finding to other folks who know more about what I'll be seeing. It has been raining very steadily here on and off for the last few days so I will probable clean of space under the lean-to so that I can stay dry too.
Dave M7040 could you draw any conclusions from the pressure tests that I did?
The pump seems to put out enough pressure and flow given the high engine speed. I am hopeful that the problems will be with seals and o-rings the lift cylinder.
Dave M7040 could you draw any conclusions from the pressure tests that I did?
The pump seems to put out enough pressure and flow given the high engine speed. I am hopeful that the problems will be with seals and o-rings the lift cylinder.
Dave M7040
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Nice to hear from you. I need to go back and look at your video as I am helping a number of people, often with hydraulic or electrical problems, and they all start to blend together in my mind.
I am not ready to tell you if I think your pump is OK but I do think you need to make certain all the pressure is not disappearing because of a leak. The fact that the 3 pt goes down quickly is what makes me think something is amiss as it should hold position even with the tractor off and may slowly drift down.
I did see another Canadian on the forum who has a "Mitsu," as he calls it and he may be a great source of Mitsubishi info.
His on line name is PILOON
Dave M7040
Dave M7040
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I watched your video again.
For my own piece of mind, I have to bring to anyone's attention safety issues I read in their posts, on their videos or photos.
We had previously conversed about how dangerous un-shielded pto shafts were and you acknowledge and said you lost an uncle to one.
I see on the hood of your tractor in the video, galvanized plumbing bits. Your pressure gauge setup appears to be a combination of pressure washer and brass reducer fittings.
Most people don't understand the serious danger of a tiny hydraulic fluid leak. They see a small fog or tiny drip and the first instinct is to hold your hand over the suspected leak to confirm your suspicions. This simple act can inject your body with hydraulic fluid which requires immediate and serious medical attention.
Hydraulic systems should only incorporate fittings designed for hydraulic work. The will not be galvanized, nor brass. This is especially true when you are making modifications or alterations.
Kubota includes this warning in all their owner's manuals
Tractor hydraulic system pressure tests are done at max rpms. Having said that, seeing your pressure readings increase as your rpm's increase makes me think LEAK.
Dave M7040
For my own piece of mind, I have to bring to anyone's attention safety issues I read in their posts, on their videos or photos.
We had previously conversed about how dangerous un-shielded pto shafts were and you acknowledge and said you lost an uncle to one.
I see on the hood of your tractor in the video, galvanized plumbing bits. Your pressure gauge setup appears to be a combination of pressure washer and brass reducer fittings.
Most people don't understand the serious danger of a tiny hydraulic fluid leak. They see a small fog or tiny drip and the first instinct is to hold your hand over the suspected leak to confirm your suspicions. This simple act can inject your body with hydraulic fluid which requires immediate and serious medical attention.
Hydraulic systems should only incorporate fittings designed for hydraulic work. The will not be galvanized, nor brass. This is especially true when you are making modifications or alterations.
Kubota includes this warning in all their owner's manuals
Tractor hydraulic system pressure tests are done at max rpms. Having said that, seeing your pressure readings increase as your rpm's increase makes me think LEAK.
Dave M7040
I would like to make believe that I didn't consider using the pipe and coupling that are stuck to the magnet, but it isn't true. I did however figure out that they wouldn't help. The brass fittings used are from an air compressor again not up to snuff. I've seen safety films at all the chem plants that I've worked at so I know better than to feel for a leak.What can I say?
I am pretty sure that there is a leak somewhere. Can the pump leak internally? From the high pressure side to the low side? There are NO external leaks, loose fittings at the pump or at the rear where the lines connect. It doesn't seem to be leaking into the engine crankcase. Oil in the motor doesn't seem diluted or thin and the level doesn't change either. I want so badly for this to be a easy fix.
I am pretty sure that there is a leak somewhere. Can the pump leak internally? From the high pressure side to the low side? There are NO external leaks, loose fittings at the pump or at the rear where the lines connect. It doesn't seem to be leaking into the engine crankcase. Oil in the motor doesn't seem diluted or thin and the level doesn't change either. I want so badly for this to be a easy fix.
Dave M7040
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The leaks I am suspecting are within the rear lifter unit. Oil leaks out of a valve and ends back in the reservoir so no external sign of leaking.
The pump is a very simple two gear meshing together style so thye usually fail by slowly loosing the ability to produce high pressure. Again I do not see evidence of this.
Dave m7040
Glad that we were on the same page about where the leak"s" seem to be. Hoping to bring the the lift cylinder and housing with me when I visit the hyd shop. That way I can get the parts that they think would need to be replaced. I would really like to replace every seal and o-ring in the lift system. Seems like a no brainer not to.
Kernopelli
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I have had lift issues on 2 different Mitsubishis in the past. I kinda highlighted my issues/solutions here http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/128255-3-point-hitch-woes-im.html?highlight=3ph and here http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...eih-255-3pt-lift-questions.html?highlight=3ph Hope it may give you some ideas.
Kernopelli
I am thinking that there has to be something amiss in the lift cylinder control valve area. Just have to have the time and dry weather to get the gumption to work on it. The pressure is there when the revs are up and it will lift a fairly heavy bush hog and hold it if the lift lever is in the up position, the moment it moves to the neutral or mid point the 3ph starts to go down. If the revs go down so does the 3ph.
Dave M7040 seems to be on this same line of thought also. The plan is to take the pump and lift cylinder in to the hyd shop tomorrow. I should know a lot more in the afternoon.
I am thinking that there has to be something amiss in the lift cylinder control valve area. Just have to have the time and dry weather to get the gumption to work on it. The pressure is there when the revs are up and it will lift a fairly heavy bush hog and hold it if the lift lever is in the up position, the moment it moves to the neutral or mid point the 3ph starts to go down. If the revs go down so does the 3ph.
Dave M7040 seems to be on this same line of thought also. The plan is to take the pump and lift cylinder in to the hyd shop tomorrow. I should know a lot more in the afternoon.
