HELP weak pump or worn lift cylinder?

[BHD]

The relief valve could be damaged or not set correctly, the spring broken. or crap holding it open.

 

[itsmesrd]

I was finally able to get the pages showing the 3ph to scan for me

 

[itsmesrd]

I'm thinking the relief valve has to be built into the control valve, right?

 

[Dave M7040]

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I was finally able to get the pages showing the 3ph to scan for me

The scanned pages are a big help but what would make them even more helpful would be photos of the same area of your tractor.

I believe the relief valve would be built into #13 the control valve which looks like it is inside the lifter casing and not accessible. Only the rod of the control valve sticks out is this correct?

Are there parts pages for the pump and hydraulic pipes which you could provide?

I see two tapered pipe plugs (#22 & #23) and I am thinking if these plugs seem close to where hydraulic lines connect, they could be a place or places where pressures could be checked.

I was very happy for you to see that your tractor's pto turns in the right direction which means your tractor is not Gray market but rather designed for North America. A big plus!!

Dave

 

[itsmesrd]

Big line is low pressure "inlet" to the hyd pump, small line is high pressure "discharge from the pump.
Big line "green" connects to the trans housing towards rear of tractor, green circle opposite side is where hyd filter is located. Small line snakes its way to top of trans housing
red circle shows where high pressure connects "#27" on the page that shows "#13" control valve.
Yellow shows 2 of the 3 plugs "#22" on the page that shows "29" lift cylinder assembly. I'm thinking that these plugs are just to block the flow passages that were drilled in the lift housing to get hyd fluid to the lift cyl. These "drilled holes" are did at the factory of course and should provide high pressure for a gauge and at the same time NOT dead head the hyd pump.
Blue shows the bolts "#34" that attach "#29" to the "#1" hyd lift housing.
Yes the control valve is inside the lift housing and the control valve lever sticks out the right side of the lift housing. scan of hyd piping & part numbers

 

[itsmesrd]

BHD I'm hoping that it could be as simple as trash holding the valve open just a crack. I am however not looking forward to pulling the hyd housing off the tractor.

 

[Dave M7040]

itsmesrd

I searched on ebay for a new pump in case you needed one.

For some stupid reason, I have mentally switched to calling your tractor a S2000 when clearly on your profile and on the photo of the nane plate you sent, it is a D2000.

I guess I made the switch from reading the history of Mitsubishi, Satoh, Case etc. A Satoh destined for the USA market had an model identified starting with a S which has nothing to do with anything.

I contacted the ebay seller because they seem to an American company selling new and rebuilt pumps and they did the rebuilding themselves. I was thinking they might be a good place who might rebuild your pump.

The company is Abilene machine Sales

Their reply was just a general one which said email them: sales@abilenemachine.com

Or call them: 800-255-0337.

I am not suggesting you do that at this point in time but to just keep the info in case you arrive at a point where their services are needed.

I will now go back up the thread and read your recent post I just did not want to forget this info I got by email.

Dave M7040

 

[Dave M7040]

I think removing the tapered plugs and then probing with a thin wire would be helpful.

Two of them may be actually in the same oil passage. As you probe and look at the parts digram you may get a better sense of which plug or plugs are before the lifter valve and which are after.

Getting a pressure gauge and necessary fitting to attach where tapered plug was would be a good idea and I would do it before pulling off the lifter top.

The parts illustration show a number of small o rings between the lifter valve and the housing, between the cylinder and the housing. Any of these inexpensive seals could cause the problems you have.

This is a photo of a pressure gauge to test systems with quick couplers. It cost about $25.

My suggestion would be to use a quick coupler between your gauge and the tapered plug holes.

This coupler use would make certain you are not twisting on the gauge to install it, that it would always face where you could see it and lastly, plug the hole. If you plumbed the male end of the quick coupler into the tapered holes, you would not have anything sticking out very much.

Dave m7040

 

[itsmesrd]

Finally got to the hyd. place and got gauge. 0-5000 PSI
This is the test Hydraulic Pressure Test - YouTube

 

[Dave M7040]

Itsmesrd.

Very good video....

I want to go through it slowly tomorrow so i don't miss anything.

Did you remove and clean or replace the hydraulic filter. It would affect the speed of the lifting of the arms but not the fact that the pressures are low as I see them.

KAYABA is the manufacturer of your pump. I can find KAYABA hydraulic on google searches.

Another forum member who I asked for some help found a used pump on on ebay but it was sold.

The important info from ebay were 4 photos which I feel closely resembles your pump.

Do you think these pictures look like your pump?

They came from a Yanmar tractor.

In my mind I doubt the pump is the problem first because of the cost of replacing it. Getting a new pump and the system still operates the same way would make both of us feel sick.

I think it would be worthwhile for you to talk to your hydraulics people about doing a pressure and flow test on your pump in their shop..

The number 22 small seals inside the top cover give me a concern as one of them being broken would drain off the pump output and lower the 3 pt.

Consider which you want to tackle first. Pump check or seal check.

Dave M7040





Dave M7040