3-Point Hitch help with a blade

   / help with a blade
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Like you I can't seem to find the actual article in my limited searching. I have found someone who claims it is legitimate. In their wording the reader gets the impression this person read the article themselves. According to this individual the bolts were all pre torqued and somehow electrically rusted for uniformity. Not much of an engineer myself, so I cannot dispel the possibility. I cannot confirm a method of achieving this either. The above post cites the test as "subjective" which leads me to assume an uncontrollable margin of error. Either way I'm gonna try forcing some down the gullet of that crusty hunk down by the barn to see what comes. I figure it can't hurt.
 
   / help with a blade #22  
I didnt realize you were also battling the angling of the blade. I though you were just dealing with a stuck tilt.

Have you tried releasing the pin, or whatever mechanism holds angle, and carefully using the tractor to try and get it free. Apply a little pressure, hit with hammer, etc
 
   / help with a blade #23  
I completely agree with LD1 regarding roll of the blade being less practical than yaw. It would be nice to have it functional and operating as it should though. The roll has loosened a bit and I actually had to knock it back in place by about a half inch. The yaw is what I am primarily concerned with so I can rotate around to push or pull snow, gravel and all the other things people push and pull. On this blade there is a cap at the bottom of the shaft. The blade mount slides over the shaft and the cap retains the blade mount. I can't tell if it is threaded. It had a 3/4 pin through it. If the cap does screw on I will just cut it off and repair it later. I am going to mix up a batch of ATF and acetone and alternate it with Deep Creep for a week or 2 and see if lighting an acetylene fire under its ..you know, will get it moving. I was trying to visualize a press of some sort but cant come up with much right now. I have a 20 ton air over hydro jack. I'm not a welder but I did save a lot of money by switching to Geico, and I know a guy. In the mean time I am going to re grade every darn gravel drive I have. I found this reply on a post on Bob is the Oil Guy and thought it was interesting. For the old salts here you all probably already knew this. Hey maybe it will help someone who didn't know though.

"This is where the acetone/ATF mix idea comes from (disclaimer I don't own a copy of this publicaiton but have tried the mix and it works for me): Machinist’s Workshop Mag™ recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted” environment. *Penetrating oil .......... Average load* None ........................... 516 pounds WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds ATF*-Acetone mix...............53 pounds The ATF-Acetone mix was a “home brew” mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the “home brew” was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that “Liquid Wrench” is almost as good as “Kroil” for about 20% of the price. Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is the best and you can also use ATF- lacquer thinner 50 - 50 mix"
The ATf used as a penetrating oil is pretty well known, the acetone will carry it in even further as it thins it out even more.

I mentioned it as well.
 
   / help with a blade #24  
Like you I can't seem to find the actual article in my limited searching. I have found someone who claims it is legitimate. In their wording the reader gets the impression this person read the article themselves. According to this individual the bolts were all pre torqued and somehow electrically rusted for uniformity. Not much of an engineer myself, so I cannot dispel the possibility. I cannot confirm a method of achieving this either. The above post cites the test as "subjective" which leads me to assume an uncontrollable margin of error. Either way I'm gonna try forcing some down the gullet of that crusty hunk down by the barn to see what comes. I figure it can't hurt.

Sooo, we know that most ATF fluids are 10W30 with additives and modifiers. The open question is, what ATF? ATF+2, +3 or +4, Dexron or merc ??? Anyone knows then?

Any good chemical engineer around? :)
 
   / help with a blade
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Guys I really appreciate the input. We'll get it eventually. The locking pin is spring loaded and I have that held up with a bungee. I have been beer bonging this thing PB blaster and will cycle through the other mentioned penetrants. When I came home with it both yaw and roll were completely stuck. By pushing the end of the blade against a tree while backing I am able to get it to yaw port and starboard at a satisfactory angle for most work. It wont swing completely around so I can use it to push. If you take a look at the angle plate that sets the yaw angle you can see it is narrower on the sides. Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe this is so it will clear the bottom retention plate. The blade mounting structure can then (in theory) slide off the shaft. I think Winston guided me in that direction earlier on in the conversation. I cant get it to rotate around enough to allow me to pull it off. And of course there is a similar issue plaguing the joint that controls roll of the blade.

I should offer apologies to california and clemsonfor. I did not give them credit where it was due reference mentioning the atf and acetone. By the way I dig the mod to the terracer.
 
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   / help with a blade #26  
Ok, I have to admit the article snippet had my sniffer sniffing. There seem to be too many digits of precision in the torque test numbers for anyone but an extremely expensive shop, and how did they consistently rust the bolts, even with a salt fog cabinet, and we all have one of those out back, right?

I am sure that the ATF/acetone mix works, but I wondered where that quoted text originally came from. So, I went poking around. The snippet would appear to be widespread, as it is quoted all over the place, but no actual source, and always the exact same chunk of text; nobody has a longer version. After an interesting walk through various search results, a search of machinistsworkshop.net, a (the?) magazine, turns up one result for ATF, and two unrelated items for rust. The earliest quotes of this seem to be 2012, so it wouldn't appear to be that old.

The snippet seems so tantalizingly detailed, as if grounded in fact. "Steve from Godwin-Singer". Godwin-Singer is a machine shop in Florida, and a Steve Trimm is a co-owner.

Perhaps someone with better "Google-Fu" can find the original source. I couldn't.

If it was a prank post, someone must be laughing pretty hard...

All the best,

Peter
I think it may have some from something old school way prior to the internet. Probably some home handyman, machinist or hobby magazine.

Don't forget the internet is not that old and unless someone scanned hundreds of years of publications 8nto it they don't "exist" sincere not on the internet.:ROFLMAO:
 
   / help with a blade #27  
Sooo, we know that most ATF fluids are 10W30 with additives and modifiers. The open question is, what ATF? ATF+2, +3 or +4, Dexron or merc ??? Anyone knows then?

Any good chemical engineer around? :)
I believe it's detergents and additives that's are put into it to creep clean and hang around.
 
   / help with a blade #28  
Like you I can't seem to find the actual article in my limited searching. I have found someone who claims it is legitimate. In their wording the reader gets the impression this person read the article themselves. According to this individual the bolts were all pre torqued and somehow electrically rusted for uniformity. Not much of an engineer myself, so I cannot dispel the possibility. I cannot confirm a method of achieving this either. The above post cites the test as "subjective" which leads me to assume an uncontrollable margin of error. Either way I'm gonna try forcing some down the gullet of that crusty hunk down by the barn to see what comes. I figure it can't hurt.
Here is the earliest, and most detailed one that I can find, purportedly referencing "Machinist's Workshop" magazine in the April/May 2007 issue;

A user named "lbender" there wrote;
"Allow me to appologize one more time. The test material was intended to be automatic transmission fluid. In the auto parts department, I grabbed a bottle of power steering fluid by mistake. If you read the article, the power steering fluid shown was used. The table you quoted has not been corrected.
One salient point not covered in your question -- these are loads required to free the test piece after 8 hours of immersion in penetrating oil. This is probably not representative of a quick squirt just before a wrench is applied."

The April/May issue table of contents shows an article by Lloyd Bender on penetrating oils on page 35...

So, appears to be real! Thank you Lloyd Bender.

Most (all?) power steering fluid is ATF. It annoys me when the manufacturer specifies one type for power steering and another incompatible type of ATF for the transmission in the same vehicle.

All the best,

Peter
 
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   / help with a blade #29  
Here is the earliest, and most detailed one that I can find, purportedly referencing "Machinist's Workshop" magazine in the April/May 2007 issue;

A user named "lbender" there wrote;
"Allow me to appologize one more time. The test material was intended to be automatic transmission fluid. In the auto parts department, I grabbed a bottle of power steering fluid by mistake. If you read the article, the power steering fluid shown was used. The table you quoted has not been corrected.
One salient point not covered in your question -- these are loads required to free the test piece after 8 hours of immersion in penetrating oil. This is probably not representative of a quick squirt just before a wrench is applied."

The April/May issue table of contents shows an article by Lloyd Bender on penetrating oils on page 35...

So, appears to be real! Thank you Lloyd Bender.

Most (all?) power steering fluid is ATF. It annoys me when the manufacturer specifies one type for power steering and another incompatible type of ATF for the transmission in the same vehicle.

All the best,

Peter
There is a difference between power steering fluid and ATF but there really shouldn't be. Its just a hydraulic system and that's basically what both of them are anyway. Not sure why someone decided they needed to think up another type of oil. Just use AFF that's specked for that vehicle. Probably could use an AW hydraulic oil but that's not common at all in the automotive world so I see not useing it . Also what's up with Jack oil, why not just use trans fluid which is laying around all auto shops.....answer so that the oil distributors in cahoots with equipment manufacturers scratch each other's backs to bottle almost the same thing in a smaller bottle and charge the same thing that they charge for a larger bottle. Vehicle manufacturer can label their own PS fluid and sell it for more and the oil companies do the same . Least that's my thoughts
 
 
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