Help with Ford 2000 12 volt wiring

[Alan Davis]

I would really appreciate some help.

I recently re-wired my already converted to 12 volt 8N and used a wiring diagram I found on line. So when a friend of mine asked if I would re-wire his already converted to 12 volt Ford 2000 I thought it would be much the same but I am having some problems.

First of all I have done many "searches" for days and have yet to find a wiring diagram (schematic) for a Ford 2000 12 volt conversion.

I did find an article on Yesterdays Tractors but no diagram. This article never mentions running wires to the terminal block like I did with my 8N.

So today I made up all new wiring and wired it up like I did my 8N but before I hook up the battery on my friend's tractor I would really like to know I'm good to go.

The tractor is a 4 speed, 4 cylinder gas, with a one wire alternator. No ammeter or voltmeter. He bought a gauge package that included, gas gauge, oil pressure gauge, temp gauge and proof meter.

I got all the gauges hooked up but I don't have a clue how to wire the gas gauge.

Can someone please help. I would rally like to get this for him going tomorrow.

Thanks,
Alan

 

[Soundguy]

a 4 cyl gasser 2000 will wire up just like a late 8n , if both have that nasty 1 wire alternator.

gas gauge? if he's using a generic gas gauge from a kit.. he'll need a different sender.

ps.. if there is a charge indicator lamp still in his dash.. why not see if that nasty 1 wire alt will wire up like a 3 wire.

run a wire from the 'coil' side of the key switch to one sid eof the lamp, and other side of the lamp to the #1 tab under the rubber cover on the alt.. from the #2 tab jump a short wire over to the charge stud. key on should = lamp on.. tractor running at above 400-600 rpm, and lamp should go out and voltage on battery should come up.

also.. you can eliminate any nasty ignition resistors and use a 16$ napa IC14SB coil.

soundguy

 

[Alan Davis]

Thanks! Soundguy.
I guess I'll start over using an 8N wiring diagram.
Maybe replace the keyed starter switch with one that does not have a start feature?

 

[Soundguy]

can keep the switch.. just don't use the turn to start side.. just use it as 2 wire.. on / off.. ie.. bat/run no ign/start/accy

use a late 8n or naa diagram.. etc.

soundguy

 

[hou]

I need help with rewiring an old 12 volt conversion on a 1963 Ford 2000 gasoline tractor. I disconnected the wires from the on/off key switch and replaced the starter switch on the gear shift plate but am having trouble getting the wires back correctly. I have a solenoid that is confusing to wire. The solenoid has the two large connectors, one for battery and one for starter. I have two small connectors on the solenoid and I am not sure what connects to these nut connectors. Can someone tell me how to run the wires through the solenoid and thru the switch. I have been able to twist wires together and get it started but not by using the starter switch on the gear box. The starter switch does nothing when I connect and depress it. I thought that the starter switch worked as a ground but I can only get it to crank and run by connecting it to the hot and ignition coil wire. Please help because I am at a loss as to what to do. houston@cfl.rr.com

 

[LD1]

The starter switch wire should go to the small terminal on the solenoid labeled S.

The other terminal can depend. If it is labled I, you dont need to use it. That is used for starting circuits that have a resister in the coil circuit to lower voltage to the coil. The I terminal can apply 12v direct to the coil for a hotter spark to aid in starting. But it is only hot with 12v when the starter button is pushed.

If it is NOT lableled I, then its probably an isolated solenoid where that wire is for the ground. Used in cases where the solenoid cannot be grounded by whatever it is bolted to.

But you need to be SURE what type it is. If it is labeled I, and you ground it, you will blow a fuse or melt a wire when you try to start. Cause that I terminal become energized.

IF you have any more questions, you may want to start a new thread.

 

[Soundguy]

a 2000 4 cyl uses a 4 terminal isolated base solenoid.

1 big term to bat, 1 big term to starter, 1 small term to key-on, 1 small term to the thumb safety switch on the trans top. this system DOES NOT use ignition bypass solenoids, nor can it use a grounded base style solenoid.

the later 65+ 2000 used an ignition bypass solenoid setup

 

[hou]

Thanks for the two answers but I am still having problems.
There is a yellow wire and black wire coming off the key switch. Which goes where? I still can't get my thumb starter switch to work and it is new. Where does the wire that goes to the ignition coil go on the solenoid. I bought a new internal resistor ignition coil for this tractor and a new solenoid that is not attachment grounded and specific for this tractor. I still can't get it to work. I do not know what I am doing wrong. This is very confusion to me and I have done some mechanical work before. Help!!!
Thanks
Hou (houston@cfl.rr.coM)

 

[Soundguy]

wow.. this post is all over the place!


the ignition switch has ONLY 2 wires. one goes to the coil, one comes power, likely a terminal wire block.. but on your butchered hack job, who knows.

I'd dyke out all the wires and start over!

to test that solenoid, remove it so the base is not touching anything, hook one small term to power, and one small term to ground, if that makes it click, it's the correct solenoid.

that unit will have no ammeter, only a charge lamp. thus you can simply find battery hot, run to the key, then to the coil.

run a wire from the coil side of the key to one of the small terminals on the solenoid. other small solenoid terminal to thumb switch. key on powers the ignition and the solenoid, thumb button should activate starter.

if not, take a test lamp, put clamp on bat hot, and point on the thumb button screw terminal and press. if the lamp does not light up, switch is bad.


one thought.. you didn't buy a 12v solenoid for a 6v tractor did you? 2000 4 cyl gas tractors were oem 6v.

 

[hou]

Thanks souNdguy,
The advice on testing the circuits you gave me worked! The solenoid is 12 volt because the tractor has been converted to 12 volt. What happened was the place (NAPA) that I bought the solenoid from sold me a base grounded solenoid even though I asked for a non grounded base. After checking it following your advice, I found that out. I bought it from NAPA and they did take the grounded based one back reluctantly, and sold me a non grounded base one. Charged me $45.00 for the new non grounded base solenoid. NAPA selling me the wrong solenoid caused me a lot of work and headache. Anyway you seem to know your "stuff" on these 1963 Ford 2000 tractors. Thanks again! Do you know of a local chain type auto parts store where I can buy points and condenser, and new spark wires?
Hou

 

[LD1]

So the new solenoid fixed the issues.

 

[Soundguy]

Thanks souNdguy,
The advice on testing the circuits you gave me worked! The solenoid is 12 volt because the tractor has been converted to 12 volt. What happened was the place (NAPA) that I bought the solenoid from sold me a base grounded solenoid even though I asked for a non grounded base. After checking it following your advice, I found that out. I bought it from NAPA and they did take the grounded based one back reluctantly, and sold me a non grounded base one. Charged me $45.00 for the new non grounded base solenoid. NAPA selling me the wrong solenoid caused me a lot of work and headache. Anyway you seem to know your "stuff" on these 1963 Ford 2000 tractors. Thanks again! Do you know of a local chain type auto parts store where I can buy points and condenser, and new spark wires?
Hou

the 53-64 models shared an engine design, and the 47 - 64 model ag tractros shared a front end design. a couple minor steering box changes along the way, but same basic design. electrical system is -basically- wired the same on all the side mounts from 8n thru 4000, with differences being when they dropped the ammeter to go to a charge light, and field circuit change on the a to b circuit generators. 47-54 shared a rear axle and hub design. 55-64 shared a rear hub design.. etc.

so lots of overlap and similarities on pre 65 fords. ( and past, especially for some of the smaller units. )

napa is actually a pretty good place for ignition parts too, though car quest and orilies will carry them.

For spark plug wires, i usually just buy cut to fit ones.. however you can likely find a uni kit at tractro supply or rural king. and some stores with ag crosref can lookup a pre-cut set. ( yep.. even napa ).

here is some ignition parts info that covers side mount distribuitor fords mid 8n thru 4cyl 4000.. good stores can cross these numbers usually.

Side-Mount Distributor: 8n thru 4 cyl thousand series

gap points to .025

Points:
NAPA #CS749
NAPA HEAVY DUTY PIERCED (ventilated) #CS753
Standard Ignition #FD-8081
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-8081X (Premium)
Condensor:
NAPA #FA66
Standard Ignition #FD-75
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD75X (Premium)
Rotor:
NAPA #FA67
Standard Ignition #FD-108
Distributor Cap:
NAPA #FA352
Standard Ignition #FD-128

side mount points hold down screws #8-32 X 3/16
FORD AUTOMOBILE dealer parts counter. come with built-in lockwasher. p/n 355047-S7 (#8-32 X 0.19)

All 4 cyl models can use AL-437 or champion H12 spark plugs instead of OEM Champion H10 or AL 216 plugs.

 

[Shaefercd]

wow.. this post is all over the place!


the ignition switch has ONLY 2 wires. one goes to the coil, one comes power, likely a terminal wire block.. but on your butchered hack job, who knows.

I'd dyke out all the wires and start over!

to test that solenoid, remove it so the base is not touching anything, hook one small term to power, and one small term to ground, if that makes it click, it's the correct solenoid.

that unit will have no ammeter, only a charge lamp. thus you can simply find battery hot, run to the key, then to the coil.

run a wire from the coil side of the key to one of the small terminals on the solenoid. other small solenoid terminal to thumb switch. key on powers the ignition and the solenoid, thumb button should activate starter.

if not, take a test lamp, put clamp on bat hot, and point on the thumb button screw terminal and press. if the lamp does not light up, switch is bad.


one thought.. you didn't buy a 12v solenoid for a 6v tractor did you? 2000 4 cyl gas tractors were oem 6v.

Thanks Soundguy,

I went Friday afternoon and got everything I needed to do my conversion on my 1963 Ford 2000. I asked for the St56 Solenoid for this project. Napa man said he didn't have that part but said the ST51 was the same. After hooking everything up and rewiring I could not get thumb start to work. Just turned over everytime I turned the ignition. wasted all that afternoon. Got another solenoid from TSC because no NAPA store around or other auto parts had a comparable part and wasted Saturday trying to get it to work. Then I read this about the grounded and insulated Solenoid. I got the ST56 after some searching and driving and Sunday morning it started right up. Thanks for your help.

 

[Soundguy]

counter men today aren't like counter men from the old days..

 

[LD1]

Yep. Many solenoids "look" the same, but are different inside. 3-wire base grounded, 4 wire isolated ground, or 4-wire with ignition terminal but still base ground. Alot of people mix the last two up because they look the same outside.

 

[Soundguy]

hey.. 4 posts.. gotta be the same right?