high low lever on TO 35

[mllud]

Says for TO35 on the part. I count 40 teeth. It could sell at that price. shipping is high. but it will fix you up.

Massey Ferguson TO35 tractor transmission ring & pinion drive gear assembly set | eBay


Here is another
Massey Ferguson 35 MF tractor transmission ring & pinion drive gear matched set | eBay

37 teeth

 

[Agvg]

You can check partsnumbers, might just be the gears, and don't rule dealer out, sometimes they are cheaper than the pirateparts online.

 

[mikecoen]

with your tips and encouragement the pinion and ring and actually whole differential with bearings were obtained thru EBAY and I put it all back together. I am hearing a concerning noise especially in the left wheel/axle so I am not using it to work until I get some help replacing the bearings and seals at the wheel ends of the axles. Saw the procedure of chiseling off the bearing collar and slipping on a red hot one. I don't have a press nor a torch so I am enlisting a local old tractor mechanic to help me with that. Those were some heavy parts and it helped to have the reassurance of you all and actual video of the same tractor on Bundy Bear Sheds. Good quality video and sound with a nice downunder attitude and accent made it work well for me. Thanks again!

 

[mllud]

With the cold outside if you pick a day in the 20's and just put your bearing race in the oven at about 350 f it should slip right on. I really have never had to and wouldn't want to heat a race to red hot that I was installing. I have installed more than one ring gear on a flywheel and bearing races using a freezer or winter temperatures for cold and the oven for heating the ring gear or bearing race.
Take advantage of a cold morning outside and your oven. Your mechanic will know what to do.
I hope you get some good service out of your tractor after you get it done.
Did you buy a whole differential with the casting or just a gear setup with bearing unit like pointed out on ebay?
With all the alignment and setting gear clearance a whole working unit was a good idea.

Removing the old bearing race can be done with a die grinder or dremell with a thin cutoff wheel. Cut most of the way through the race then a sharp hit with a hammer and chisel and the race will break where you ground the groove. That's just my method. Sometimes I use heat if its convenient.

 

[Cougsfan]

Congratulations Mike. Doesn't it feel good to be talented, brave and persistent enough to successfully tackle a project when you initially don't even know what exactly is broke or how to go about fixing it? That would scare most people.

 

[mikecoen]

OK, so you guys are relentless on getting me in over my head! My hand got twisted by my drill motor while drilling out the old pinion rivets, so I'm trying to get that strong again. If the mechanic doesn't call me back I will probably take things apart and follow your suggestion. Just seal and bearing and collar that holds bearing into place? Do I need a press to get the old bearing off? You asked about the diff assembly and yes that is what I did and it was therefore unnecessary to hurt myself drilling off the original ring gear from my diff. I found one gear with the replacement diff that had a different number of teeth than what I needed but my original one fit and was in good shape. Thanks again for your help. I'll post outcomes when I get to the next steps.

 

[mikecoen]

got it all back together, still had ominous clunk sounds in rear axle ends, so replaced bearings, seals, collars and reassembled. Clunks still scare me but I'm using the tractor for some tasks and so far nothing seizes up! Not pleased with what sounds like a fault in the tractor that may allow the more serious breakdown all over again. I'll follow up to keep you posted on what happens.

 

[mllud]

got it all back together, still had ominous clunk sounds in rear axle ends, so replaced bearings, seals, collars and reassembled. Clunks still scare me but I'm using the tractor for some tasks and so far nothing seizes up! Not pleased with what sounds like a fault in the tractor that may allow the more serious breakdown all over again. I'll follow up to keep you posted on what happens.

I feel your pain about still having a clunk.
One thing that can cause a clunk out at the axle ends.
I'm not sure what kind of wheel mounting you have.
Check all the wheel mounting bolts. Those spin out rims are known to work loose if not tightened well and klunk when changing forward to reverse.
If you don't have the spin out rims check the lug bolts at the rims and axle. You may have already done this.
Just some thoughts.
Mike

 

[Cougsfan]

Can you describe the "clunk" in more detail? Some things that might help: Exactly when does it "clunk"? How often? Is it random or rhythmic? When starting to move? When applying a load? When backing off on a load? When turning a corner? Does it do it in both High and Low, and in all gears (including reverse)? With the PTO engaged/disengaged or both? Is it just a noise or does the tractor "jerk" (can you noticeably feel it) when it "clunks"? Not sure any of these questions will lead directly to an answer, but may help in trying to systematically diagnose or isolate the problem.

 

[Cougsfan]

Just a little unrelated story to tell you about when I replaced the leaky transmission input shaft seals on my TO35: I tore it apart with not much of an idea of how to do it. Every thing went fairly good with just the common frustrations associated with figuring things out as you go. When I managed to it back together the tranny was locked up solid. It wouldn't turn at all! I took that input shaft out and put it back in a half dozen times and it always locked up when I was done. For the life of me I couldn't find anything wrong. I was baffled! I decided to just let the tractor set for a couple weeks, not knowing what to do next. I came back to work on it again and noticed it freed up when I just loosened the 4 bolts that held the input shafts in place. I had replaced one of those bolts as one of the old ones was in pretty bad shape. The new bolt was maybe 1/4" longer. That longer bolt was just barely long enough to come in contact with the forward-most gear in the transmission. When fully tightened, the bolt and gear were acting like a disk brake, locking up the transmission! I felt so stupid! I ground some off the end of the new bolt and everything worked fine. Mike, hopefully your problem is as simple, just hard to see.