The clunk is random, forward or reverse, I think it is in all gears. It sounds like a rattle, like would come from end play. It doesn't jerk, I haven't tried it with PTO engaged. Location seems to be in axle ends. Wheels and bolts to trumpet housing ends are all very tight. It happens with no regular rhythm but it sort of rattles along under no load other than moving itself around. The rear 3point hydraulic seems weak now and I did not rebuilt that while I was in the gear case b/c it was working ok before. I thought it was the bearings being worn loose, allowing some slop so that is why I replace those. I tapped them down to their stop while they were hot to 400 degrees and put the collars down onto them while the collars were red hot. I reused the bearings that came with the used differential assembly b/c they seemed ok. The pinion shaft pilot bearing was ok too so I reused it. (Not equipped to press off those bearings at the time I did the gearbox.) One thing I didn't like was that the pilot bearing end of the pinion only went about halfway into the housing casting place for it, like the pinion should have been about 1/4 inch longer. The other end of the pinion is a sleeve that holds those two bearings tightly and fastens to the cast iron housing. Back to the axle ends at the wheel/brake end, I wasn't sure how those new bearings etc. fastened. It seemed like they ought to have been firm and tight without being bolted in place on the outer ends of the trumpet housings but they were not firm until I bolted the axles and brake backing plates into place. When I bolted that together, I used two fewer shims on each end than had been there before and the inner axle ends were not touching as tested by one foward/one reverse relationship between the two wheels/tires. That means I now have just one shim plus the paper gasket between the axle housing and the flange on the end of the axle. I think I am describing it correctly. Thanks for your interest.
high low lever on TO 35
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mllud
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I'm going to throw another what if out there.
This isn't out at the end of the axle but if you have the disk brakes and they are adjusted on the snug side could those internal linkages be rattling if the brakes are dragging and releasing a little while moving and your hearing brake linkages or the disks .
You could either loosen the adjustment a little or ride the brakes a little while traveling to keep tension on all the linkage parts to see if it goes away. If it's brake noise it will wear in or you could loosen them a little.
I tried looking your tractor up in the agco parts website but couldn't find TO 35. I wanted to look at the parts diagram
ITS SNOWING HERE
Mike
Cougsfan
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Did you ever get the MF-14 manual? I have a copy and can send you pictures of the areas in concern if you need them.
One thing I would suggest is to jack the rear end of the tractor off the ground and see if either of the axles have any side play. From what you are describing that seems to be a possibility. If there is any slop at all you might want to put those extra shims back in.
If you can get the tractor safely on a stand it might be worth while to turn things by hand and even run it in gear and listen with a stethoscope to try and further isolate the source of the clunk.
Mike's suggestion of not ruling out the brakes is valid.
You mentioned the pinion gear not going all the way into the housing casting place for it. I'm not totally sure of what you are saying, but in the final installation the pinion gear needs to be snug up against the ring gear. If there is slop at that point, things will not last long and could be the source of your clunk.
I am not sure why the three point lift would be weaker. That is seemingly unrelated.
If your tractor is like mine, the PTO Shaft has three control positions: Off, driven by the engine, and driven by the wheels. Sometimes my selection lever rattles when it is in the off position. I leave mine in the engine driven position all the time because of that, unless I have a need for it it to be in neutral, or the off position. I have never found a need for the wheel driven position.
By the way, it is snowing here too!
One thing I would suggest is to jack the rear end of the tractor off the ground and see if either of the axles have any side play. From what you are describing that seems to be a possibility. If there is any slop at all you might want to put those extra shims back in.
If you can get the tractor safely on a stand it might be worth while to turn things by hand and even run it in gear and listen with a stethoscope to try and further isolate the source of the clunk.
Mike's suggestion of not ruling out the brakes is valid.
You mentioned the pinion gear not going all the way into the housing casting place for it. I'm not totally sure of what you are saying, but in the final installation the pinion gear needs to be snug up against the ring gear. If there is slop at that point, things will not last long and could be the source of your clunk.
I am not sure why the three point lift would be weaker. That is seemingly unrelated.
If your tractor is like mine, the PTO Shaft has three control positions: Off, driven by the engine, and driven by the wheels. Sometimes my selection lever rattles when it is in the off position. I leave mine in the engine driven position all the time because of that, unless I have a need for it it to be in neutral, or the off position. I have never found a need for the wheel driven position.
By the way, it is snowing here too!
downslope
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Maybe the 3 point got weaker if he replaced the trans/hydraulic oil and used a lighter viscosity. Didn't the TO-35s originally come with 90 wt mineral gear oil in the common sumps?
If that is what was in there and you replaced with universal tractor fluid that could reduce performance if system parts like pump or lift cylinder are worn. The UTF is fine if everything is tip-top condition but not when things are high mileage/neglected maintenance. You can even experience more gear noise, leaks, etc with the lighter oils. NAPA has the 90 weight mineral gear oil.
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Hello tractor warriors, back with new problem on same TO35 MHF. Clutch now will not disengage, pedal feels disconnected. What should I do to diagnose the cause? Some of you were in on this last winter when I put in a new/used pinion and ring/differential. Thanks for your interest and willingness to advise.
mllud
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If my lift truck sits for a while the clutch plate sticks to the flywheel. As said remove the inspection plate. Have someone sit on the tractor and push and hold the clutch peddle. get something like a putty knife and try to get between the clutch plate and flywheel to separate it.
Another option is to put it in gear and hook it to a truck and sit on the tractor with it in low gear and holding the clutch peddle down. Have a driver in the truck give you a pull. That will often break the plate loose from the flywheel. Keep the clutch peddle pushed down.
Moisture causes the sticking to the flywheel.
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Cougsfan
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There is a cinch bolt on the clutch pedal that locks it to the clutch relief shaft. This is external of the clutch housing. Are you sure that it is tight?
it is one of two "ears" on the lever that rotates with the clutch pedal and pushes the throwout bearing to disengage. So far, I have not found the part. What all should I replace while going in there. I understand the loader needs to be detached and the tractor split. Question is what would break off one of those cast iron "ears"?