Hinged rear blade

[markshr151]

Why do box blades have a hinged rear blade? I hate these things, how do you control how much cut your front blade makes? I must be missing something because some very high end blades have hinged rear blades.Is it for a certain type of soil? I only have sand in central Fl.

 

[Marveltone]

From my own feeble understanding and experience, a hinged rear blade allows you to take a more aggressive cut, or bigger bite, since the rear blade doesn't get in the way. The aggressiveness of that cut is adjusted with the top link. To dig deeper and faster, lengthen it. To cut shallower or scrape, shorten it. This is the opposite of what you would do with a fixed rear blade, as the immovable rear blade can act as a drag or gauge. To be honest, hinged back blades do take a bit longer to get the hang of over their fixed counterparts, and not everybody likes them. There are plenty of fixed back models out there.

I've found that the secret is to take your time and go slow. Always keep one hand on the lift lever so you can make minute adjustments on the fly.

Joe

 

[94BULLITT]

Also a hinged blade won't leave those cut marks from rocks because the back will hinge over it.

 

[Deerherd]

I too am looking for a box blade and wondered if they make a hinged blade that you can "lock" to make it a fixed blade. Best of both worlds?

 

[Gordon Gould]

I think a lot of operators use the fixed rear blade like gauage wheels. They are really using the box blade more as a drag than a blade. Which is fine on a lot of applications. It really works well. They control the cut with the top link and forget that they even have a position control on the 3ph. The position control should be the primary control in earth cutting operations with a box blade. Learning to use the position control gives you a lot more capability and flexability and the fixed rear blade becomes a limiting factor because it gets in the way. The main purpose of the rear blade is for back filling operations. That it why it is hinged on the better box blades. It swings up and does not hinder the forward cut but drops down for back filling and you don't trap material between the two blades that makes the whole box ride up above the work surface.
The hinged blade is harder to master and you can do a lot with the fixed blade type. Fixed blade units are also less expensive to manufacture and so they are more popular with us casual users who just want to drag the driveway.

 

[Deerherd]

Thanks for the reply Gordon. One of the ways I was planning on using the box blade was to move dirt from a low area to later flood for ducks. I need it for other things where I can see the benefits of the hinge but for moving dirt from point A to B wouldn't the dirt just flow right out the back on the hinged equipped blade? I think I'm on the search for a 8 ft cat 2 box blade that has a hinge you can lock or do I have my head up my butt?

 

[TripleR]

I have never felt the need, but the hinged rear blade on my Land Pride HR3584 can be bolted in place so it doesn't swing back.

 

[jenkinsph]

Thanks for the reply Gordon. One of the ways I was planning on using the box blade was to move dirt from a low area to later flood for ducks. I need it for other things where I can see the benefits of the hinge but for moving dirt from point A to B wouldn't the dirt just flow right out the back on the hinged equipped blade? I think I'm on the search for a 8 ft cat 2 box blade that has a hinge you can lock or do I have my head up my butt?

The front blade is fixed in place and holds the dirt in the box when moving forward. This prohibits the dirt from flowing out of the box with the rear blade fixed or not. I prefer the hinged blade as it allows the bb to cut faster.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Thanks for the reply Gordon. One of the ways I was planning on using the box blade was to move dirt from a low area to later flood for ducks. I need it for other things where I can see the benefits of the hinge but for moving dirt from point A to B wouldn't the dirt just flow right out the back on the hinged equipped blade? I think I'm on the search for a 8 ft cat 2 box blade that has a hinge you can lock or do I have my head up my butt?

It should not. The front forward facing blade will cut the dirt which will accumulate in the box at point A. To move the dirt to point B you just raise the blade so it follows along as close to ground level as you can. Keep your hand on the position control, go slow, and make adjustments as necessary. If a little dribbles out or you dig a little more along the way don't wory about it. You will get better at the control with practice. The flatter it is the easier it will be. Depending on what you have to do if you can follow the same route between A and B each time you can either use the pond dirt to make the route smoother (flatter) with each pass or before you start you can cut a flat between A and B. If you have a long way to go it might be easier to pile the dirt near the duck pond and use the loader to move it to B. Then use the BB to level the filled area at B.

 

[Xfaxman]

I too am looking for a box blade and wondered if they make a hinged blade that you can "lock" to make it a fixed blade. Best of both worlds?

Mine locks with pins slid in each side.

The way I moved dirt, was put the 3 point all the way down, retract the hydraulic top link, move forward filling the BB, raise the 3 point slowly if you need more traction, extend the top link as the BB fills.

When full, lower the 3 point all the way, to let it float, extend the top link so the BB isn't digging and drag it out.

You can make a big pile that way, just keep the top flat so you don't get high centered. Don't ask how I know!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks for the reply Gordon. One of the ways I was planning on using the box blade was to move dirt from a low area to later flood for ducks. I need it for other things where I can see the benefits of the hinge but for moving dirt from point A to B wouldn't the dirt just flow right out the back on the hinged equipped blade? I think I'm on the search for a 8 ft cat 2 box blade that has a hinge you can lock or do I have my head up my butt?

Dave, you DO NOT want an 8" wide BB, even with your new bigger tractor. Think about it, industrial tractors that weigh 14-16,000lbs and are 90-100hp use a 7' wide box that weighs 1400-1600lbs. You want a nice 7 footer that weighs a minimum of 1000lbs. 1200-1400lb would be a real good match for your tractor. You will be better served with a floating rear blade. Just use the position control to control the depth of cut, that's what it's for. Hope that you got 3 sets of rear remotes with that new tractor. You're going to need that 3rd one to operate those hydraulic actuated rippers in your new box blade.

 

[markshr151]

Is this the method for people who do not know how to adjust the top link? I tip my blade forward to the degree that I want to remove material. There never seems to be a problem digging in unless teeth are needed. Then tip back and leave a perfectly smooth path.

 

[Deerherd]

Thanks for everyone's help, and I didn't mean to high jack this thread.

Dave, you DO NOT want an 8" wide BB, even with your new bigger tractor. Think about it, industrial tractors that weigh 14-16,000lbs and are 90-100hp use a 7' wide box that weighs 1400-1600lbs. You want a nice 7 footer that weighs a minimum of 1000lbs. 1200-1400lb would be a real good match for your tractor. You will be better served with a floating rear blade. Just use the position control to control the depth of cut, that's what it's for. Hope that you got 3 sets of rear remotes with that new tractor. You're going to need that 3rd one to operate those hydraulic actuated rippers in your new box blade.

Yes, I have three rear remotes and your TNT works great by the way! I guess I was thinking to get the box blade a little wider then my wheels, which are 90". That would cover my tracks when using it on the 1/4 mile drive for maintenance and I thought a little wider would be better if one were trying to cut a ditch. My other concern is how much could a person exceed the HP rating for an implement? A member recommended a Land Pride that looks real nice but if it was rated for 50-70 HP would my 88 HP void the warranty?

As a side note there is a Gannon 6' box blade for sale locally on Craigslist, would that be a better fit? It says it needs a hefty tractor to pull it.

Gannon Industrial Box Blade hk60l

Thanks again, really appreciate everyones help.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

If your width at the tires is 90", I might be thinking about an 8 footer also. :confused3: The problem is to find an 8 footer that matches your tractor that isn't going to cost you 5 grand. If you are only going to be maintaining your drive and some other occasional work, you can probably get by with something that is lighter duty like this unit.

I personally would probably settle for a 1200lb 7 footer with hydraulic actuated rippers. Like that 6' Gannon, but 7' wide.

It may just be me, but when it comes to a mechanical implement, if there is damage, good luck on getting it covered under any warranty. Unless you can flat out show where a weld was bad, they are not going to cover it. The damage will be called abuse and it's your baby. Doesn't matter what tractor you're using.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Is this the method for people who do not know how to adjust the top link? I tip my blade forward to the degree that I want to remove material. There never seems to be a problem digging in unless teeth are needed. Then tip back and leave a perfectly smooth path.

Not at all !!! The point you have to remember is if you have a hinged rear blade you cannot simply tip the BB back to lift the front blade because with a fixed rear blade it rolls back on the fixed rear blade which acts as a nice skid shoe. With a hinged rear blade you must lift the BB to stop cutting. When you tip back a hinged BB the rear blade just hinges up. The front blade remains on the soil and will still cut, sometime more aggressively, depending on soil, because you reduced the blades angle of attack.

You mentioned that you hated hinged BBs. If you are trying to use one the same way you use a fixed rear blade BB then you would hate it for sure. They are very different.

 

[markshr151]

I can understand the misunderstanding,I have a good bit of experience. My preference is a fixed blade. I can't find a good reason for a hinged one.
1. Never had a single rock get stuck between blades
2. I can adjust how aggressive I want my blade to cut and have no problem getting a well built blade to cut because of weight.
3. When I am done cutting in and moving dirt around I tip the blade back just enough to cut off the high spots and smooth out every thing else (can't do that with a hinged blade )
4. A Hyd top link is the way to go but most of my life I twist and turn. A good quality top link is helpful and I have made my own with a ring around them.
5. Never had a problem wearing out a cutting edge but have bent a few boxes.( fixed blades are much stronger )
6.trying to float a blade is a very clumsy affair but posable and slow.


This is why I ask the question, it does not make any sense to me but maybe there is something I just can't see. 30 years ago my Massey 20 could out work a D3 grading with a fixed blade in the central Fl. Sand.



One more thing, if I had a Long driveway to maintain I would look at one of these Recover your gravel road with the Everything Attachments Land Leveler.

 

[jenkinsph]

markshr151,
I think the issue is you are digging in sand while some of us are digging in some very hard ground. In hard ground the hinged rear blade helps cut faster.

About the landplane grader scrapers in your link these do help with smoothing out a driveway or even acreage that needs smoothing out. Several of us on TBN have built our own including Gordon and myself and most of these are quite a bit heavier than the ones you linked. Most of us agree that they work best with long skids and at least 100 lbs/ft of width.

 

[RDrancher]

Thanks for everyone's help, and I didn't mean to high jack this thread.
Yes, I have three rear remotes and your TNT works great by the way! I guess I was thinking to get the box blade a little wider then my wheels, which are 90". That would cover my tracks when using it on the 1/4 mile drive for maintenance and I thought a little wider would be better if one were trying to cut a ditch. My other concern is how much could a person exceed the HP rating for an implement? A member recommended a Land Pride that looks real nice but if it was rated for 50-70 HP would my 88 HP void the warranty?

As a side note there is a Gannon 6' box blade for sale locally on Craigslist, would that be a better fit? It says it needs a hefty tractor to pull it.

Gannon Industrial Box Blade hk60l

Thanks again, really appreciate everyones help.

Dave, I just purchased the same Gannon in a 6-ft width. My 35hp tractor pulls it just fine (rippers down), even in heavy clay, but it's too narrow for your tractor. The rear blade can also be bolted.

Go with a hinged gate for sure. It just plain digs better and it gives you options. I spread a lot of washed 3/4" rock and the gate gets in the way for that. On my old BB, I swung the gate up and fixed it with a c-clamp for spreading the rock. On the new BB I bolt the back blade down.

 

[bullockcm]

Thanks for everyone's help, and I didn't mean to high jack this thread.



Yes, I have three rear remotes and your TNT works great by the way! I guess I was thinking to get the box blade a little wider then my wheels, which are 90". That would cover my tracks when using it on the 1/4 mile drive for maintenance and I thought a little wider would be better if one were trying to cut a ditch. My other concern is how much could a person exceed the HP rating for an implement? A member recommended a Land Pride that looks real nice but if it was rated for 50-70 HP would my 88 HP void the warranty?

As a side note there is a Gannon 6' box blade for sale locally on Craigslist, would that be a better fit? It says it needs a hefty tractor to pull it.

Gannon Industrial Box Blade hk60l

Thanks again, really appreciate everyones help.

I actually picked that gannon up on Friday to use with my Kubota 4240. Someone has modified the ripper handle and I am going to have to change it so it clears my cab. Other than that it seems pretty decent.

 

[94BULLITT]

I actually picked that gannon up on Friday to use with my Kubota 4240. Someone has modified the ripper handle and I am going to have to change it so it clears my cab. Other than that it seems pretty decent.

Post some pics of it.