Hitch pin hole repair

[Gordon Gould]

If you could borrow or rent a Milwaukee right angle drill you could use the hole saw method. Most any plumber, electrician, or carpenter would have one. Speed is slow and variable. At least that was true in the old days. Top right in the picture.



gg

 

[Shield Arc]

Milwaukee right angle drill

Oh those drills have some power too! I seen a carpenter get knockout when one of those drills hung up. :shocked:

 

[ovrszd]

If you could borrow or rent a Milwaukee right angle drill you could use the hole saw method. Most any plumber, electrician, or carpenter would have one. Speed is slow and variable. At least that was true in the old days. Top right in the picture.

View attachment 465727

gg

How many miles you gotta drag that plane to wear out cutting edges like that????

 

[Birdhunter1]

Oh those drills have some power too! I seen a carpenter get knockout when one of those drills hung up. :shocked:

I saw the drill right before a sheetmetal worker got knocked out too!
And saw the drill after I got up off the floor.

 

[handirifle]

Seeing that I am not what I'd call a welder, but have had to "fix" a lot of stuff, I kinda liked the "turn it upside down and fill it in" method, except that I would fill the big sections with pieces of cut steel. It might not be solid all the way, but it would be close and pretty fast to do.

The most interesting part of this thread, to me, is the wide variance of ideas. Different strokes.

 

[ovrszd]

Seeing that I am not what I'd call a welder, but have had to "fix" a lot of stuff, I kinda liked the "turn it upside down and fill it in" method, except that I would fill the big sections with pieces of cut steel. It might not be solid all the way, but it would be close and pretty fast to do.

The most interesting part of this thread, to me, is the wide variance of ideas. Different strokes.

Yep. And for me, my ideas are mostly based on my personal ability. I think thats true of most suggestions. In these discussions I'll sometimes get ideas that I never would have thought of. Great discussion.

 

[BWSwede]

A lot a great ideas. Thank you all very much.

I have my doubts about the copper pipe fill in method, not so much about the pipe, but more of a concern about the 3/4" stickout I would need on my mig. I know from past projects that the welder does not like to project that far and produce a decent, penetrating weld.

I am curious though about welding up next to copper. IIRC correctly I think the copper melting point is about 800 degrees F lower than the steel, so some sort of cooling mechanism or heat sink I would think is needed as some have mentioned.

In the end I'll probably end up where I thought I would, and that is cutting off the tab and welding on a new one with the hole already drilled. I was trying to avoid this as I don't have a torch that will cut through 1" steel (will use a portable ban saw), and I don't have the correct size hole saw (or any annular cutters).

Someone asked what this is used for. It is the front 3 point hitch on my tractor. I use my front hitch for my 84" snow blower and in the future for pallet forks. With the weight and leverage of the snow blower the tab needs to be able to handle about 12,000 pounds of tension.

I think the reason why the hole elongated is that at some point in time it its life the hydraulic cylinder than pins to the tab seeped oil under load. The oil ran down the tab and settle in and around the pin. The oil held abrasives from the soil and whatever else is in the environment and acted as emery cloth each time the hitch was lifted and lowered.

BWSwede

 

[lostcreekranch]

You might consider drilling the hole oversize where you could install a hard bushing that would be more resistant to future wear?

 

[ovrszd]

You might consider drilling the hole oversize where you could install a hard bushing that would be more resistant to future wear?

See post #15.

 

[lostcreekranch]

See post #15.

hermano lo siento!